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Old 03-25-2002, 12:10 AM   #2356
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Guys is there any material in the stock chassis itself that conducts electricity like a CF chassis? Just wondering because the battery bars were rubbing on the inside of the tunnel quite a bit so I did a bit of grinding to provide better clearance.
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Old 03-25-2002, 07:41 AM   #2357
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I would bet there would be. You just might want to put electrical tape along side the chassis tunnel where the bars meet.
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Last edited by Kraig; 03-25-2002 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 03-25-2002, 11:04 AM   #2358
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To anyone interested, I found on TTT a thread referring to MF red shock collars. Part number TMF1121. Is the part number that was posted.

The stock chassis is not conductive. Only the graphite chassis is.

Last edited by CRASH; 03-25-2002 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 03-25-2002, 11:36 AM   #2359
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The red shock collars are also listed on Stormer's site, just waiting for them to get in stock!

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Old 03-25-2002, 01:10 PM   #2360
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Yeah, what's up with Stormer being out of everything! Guess they're a pretty popular place to shop online.

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Old 03-25-2002, 02:42 PM   #2361
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so i should just cut the rod ends down a little bit so that they will fit on my XXX-S. But the question I wanted to know was whether or not Losi makes a set just for the XXX-S or does RPM make some?
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Old 03-25-2002, 03:58 PM   #2362
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Thanks. I am just using the standard Deans silver bars. Does anyone know if the the Deans bars for 3000s' are thinner?

I haven't seen a kit other than the stock black ends for the XXX-S so you will have to just trim some of these to fit.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...14&pc=LOSA6014

Last edited by MDM3; 03-25-2002 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 03-25-2002, 07:59 PM   #2363
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Can anyone inform me of the purpose of putting that servo arm together for steering with the springs and stuff? What's the benefit of it? Can I just use a standard metal servo arm?

Thanks,
Jits

By the way, just got my digital Hitec servo from www.servocity.com with no probs... Didn't have to pay for shipping or tax!
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Old 03-25-2002, 08:27 PM   #2364
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that's a servo saver, it will protect your servo from stripping when you hit something, unless you are like me and neverhit anything
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Old 03-25-2002, 08:39 PM   #2365
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Quote:
Originally posted by Evil_S10
so i should just cut the rod ends down a little bit so that they will fit on my XXX-S. But the question I wanted to know was whether or not Losi makes a set just for the XXX-S or does RPM make some?
I cut the losi yellow rod ends down a little for the servo saver. The RPM ones also works on the suspension arms.
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Old 03-25-2002, 11:55 PM   #2366
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What part of the car do I measure to check ride-height? The A arms?

How in the world is BK running 10mm of droop? I know it's measured with the tires on, but I can barely get my droop guage under the chassis with the wheels on? Can someone help me? I've yet to even run my car, but I now have everything except crystals.. Anyway, I want to setup my car like BK's to try it out.

Thanks!
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Old 03-26-2002, 12:46 AM   #2367
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Quote:
Originally posted by JitsuGuy
Can anyone inform me of the purpose of putting that servo arm together for steering with the springs and stuff? What's the benefit of it? Can I just use a standard metal servo arm?
That servo saver will do just that, save your servo. If you hit something hard the servo saver gives instead of stripping the teeth off your expensive new servo's gears.
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Old 03-26-2002, 01:00 AM   #2368
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Quote:
Originally posted by JitsuGuy
What part of the car do I measure to check ride-height? The A arms?

How in the world is BK running 10mm of droop? I know it's measured with the tires on, but I can barely get my droop guage under the chassis with the wheels on?
You have to take the wheels off the side you are checking the droop. Set the chassis on the droop gauge under the arms and check one side at a time. Pages 32 and 33 of the manual have a good description of how to check it. And I don't know where you got 10mm of droop... but I don't think the droop guage goes past about 8, and I'm too lazy to check but that sounds like the chassis would be touching the ground with that much droop.
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Old 03-26-2002, 04:16 AM   #2369
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You measure ride hight with the car standing on a table on the wheels you intend to race with, and with the batery and all the electronics in. Normally the body is not, it does not make a difference. Measure the gap between the chassis plate and the table below the front and the rear axle. If you don't have a gauge just simply use some coins.

Droop is more complicated, I know at least 3 different methods to measure droop and there must be some more... One is with the droop gauge by the manuals. In this case 10mm is more than strange, I don't think that BK used it that way. Anyway, using the numbers given by the droop gauge can be a bit confusing if you are new to this, because a larger number means less amount of downward movement on the A arms. Don't forget, that there are a lot of droop gauges on the market with different scales.

An other usual way to measure droop is to put the car on the table then rise the front or rear end of the car (with the wheels on) until the wheels are off the table and measure the distance between the bottom of the chassis and the table. In this case some people used to substract the ride hight from the measured value. The result is exactly the amount of maximum possible downward wheel movement.

The third method used by some racers or manufacturers is very simple, just place the car without wheels on a table and measure the hight of the wheel axle endpoints above the table.

The lesson is that a droop value means nothing until you don't know how it was measured and with what gauge it was measured.

Last edited by ttr; 03-26-2002 at 04:25 AM.
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Old 03-26-2002, 06:57 AM   #2370
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I check my droop with the shocks and sway bars(if you run them) disconnected from the car. I then place it on my Hudy blocks and check it wit the Hudy gauge as described in the Losi manual. I then reattach the shocks and check the ride height as described above with the tires I plan on using and then check the tweak on the car. Then I reattach the sway bars if needed.
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