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Old 02-20-2002, 12:55 AM   #1951
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Cool

Hey guys I think I may be running stock this weekend. Should I run the belt looser with a stock motor? Any input would help.
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Old 02-20-2002, 01:07 AM   #1952
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STLNLST:
I don't really agree about the short shock shafts. On my XXX-S I have problems getting it as low(4-5mm ride height)as I want it. And thats due to the shocks. Now my pistons work in the topmost(and I mean the VERY topmost, just a couple of mm's.) area in the shock. There is two problems with that: 1st, if I get any air(even the slightest) in the shock, guess where the bubbles will be??? Yupp, the top.... Second, since there is a fluid in the shock the damping will be a bit different in the top and the bottom of the shock, the walls will pose a opposing force on the piston near the end points...... So I say, get the shafts.... I have also noticed that the uptravel is limited by the shockbody. So if you run on a slick surface and want to setup the car to lean a lot in the corner the shockbody will not allow as much uptravel as you 'd like....

/TeeJay
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Old 02-20-2002, 01:31 AM   #1953
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grinch77... Here you go man! http://www.fictionlab.com/losifaq/MyRide.htm

This guys site is awesome in regards to the XXX-S and it's setup. Definitely make it a favorite. He also visits this forum and thread often.

Jits

EDIT: Grinch, I just noticed you're in Tulsa Oklahoma too! Sweet. I'm just getting my XXX-S all setup. Just ordered my M8 radio today. Getting closer!

Last edited by JitsuGuy; 02-20-2002 at 01:34 AM.
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Old 02-20-2002, 02:58 AM   #1954
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Quote:
Originally posted by TeeJay
STLNLST:
I don't really agree about the short shock shafts. On my XXX-S I have problems getting it as low(4-5mm ride height)as I want it. And thats due to the shocks. Now my pistons work in the topmost(and I mean the VERY topmost, just a couple of mm's.) area in the shock. There is two problems with that: 1st, if I get any air(even the slightest) in the shock, guess where the bubbles will be??? Yupp, the top.... Second, since there is a fluid in the shock the damping will be a bit different in the top and the bottom of the shock, the walls will pose a opposing force on the piston near the end points...... So I say, get the shafts.... I have also noticed that the uptravel is limited by the shockbody. So if you run on a slick surface and want to setup the car to lean a lot in the corner the shockbody will not allow as much uptravel as you 'd like....

/TeeJay
STLNLST was refering to the REAR shocks, which have lots of travel (the pistons are nowhere near the top) with the standard length shock bodies. The front is another story...
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Old 02-20-2002, 03:58 AM   #1955
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Ooooops!!
I should read the posts more carefully..
seamus0g: Thanks for pointing that out. As you say, the rear has PLENTY of travel....
I hope I didn't offend you STLNLST??!

/TeeJay
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Old 02-20-2002, 06:13 AM   #1956
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Quote:
Originally posted by grinch77
whats a good place to mount the capacitor from a TC2 esc??Pics would be great.
Grinch - I mounted the capacitor to the ESC, using ShoeGoo ( availible at places like Walmart, or i had seen it in Dynamite packaging once. ) It will hand over the chassis slightly, but just as long as there is arm clearance you should be fine.

Chassis/ESC Shot: http://www.shearracing.com/chrome3.jpg

Image is a little fuzzy, but it works...
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Old 02-20-2002, 07:38 AM   #1957
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Default Anodizing

I just started my first "aluminium anodizing at home" operation. First parts I did were the MF roll center blocks, the steering spindles and the shocks for my XXX-S.

I was shooting for a bright orange and ended up with a nice redish gold :-))

Anyways, better than the red and the olive green of the shocks. Looks tooo cool with the blue screws. Now I'll be doing some color test to see with what screaming colors I can come up with...
I'll post some pics once I got it all back together.
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Old 02-20-2002, 07:59 AM   #1958
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Quote:
Originally posted by TeeJay
STLNLST:
I don't really agree about the short shock shafts. On my XXX-S I have problems getting it as low(4-5mm ride height)as I want it. And thats due to the shocks. Now my pistons work in the topmost(and I mean the VERY topmost, just a couple of mm's.) area in the shock. There is two problems with that: 1st, if I get any air(even the slightest) in the shock, guess where the bubbles will be??? Yupp, the top.... Second, since there is a fluid in the shock the damping will be a bit different in the top and the bottom of the shock, the walls will pose a opposing force on the piston near the end points...... So I say, get the shafts.... I have also noticed that the uptravel is limited by the shockbody. So if you run on a slick surface and want to setup the car to lean a lot in the corner the shockbody will not allow as much uptravel as you 'd like....

/TeeJay
What are you setting your rear shocks to??? The main reason for the short shock shafts in the front was to allow the piston to sit lower in the oil rather than at the top of the body. Ride height didn't seem to be the problem. One thing that people are forgetting is that just because a car has droop screws doesn't mean that setting up all four shocks to a certain mm goes out the door.
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Old 02-20-2002, 08:04 AM   #1959
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Look futher up the page and my ole' buddy seamus has answered the question. Thanks Seamus

Teejay- It takes more than that to hurt my feelings
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Old 02-20-2002, 08:29 AM   #1960
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Has anybody tried just using the shorter shock shafts with the stock shock bodies? Does it work the same or similar way as a complete short shock assembly? Don't you want the shock piston to ride lower in the body or is it a case of being able to get the car in the correct ride height? I am curious.
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Old 02-20-2002, 09:45 AM   #1961
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Kraig:
You should be quite ok with just the short shafts(havent tried it myself though). But on my XXX-S the stock shock bodies seems to limit uptravel. The ride height issue is more of an side-effect, ie if I run my car as low as I want, the piston is too high in the shock body, hence don't work properly.... Although you have to make sure the threaded part of the shock shaft(stock one) is all the way down in the ballcup(is that the right word?)otherwise the shaft will hit the top in the shockbody when trying a low setup..
And then we have those nice shock collars supplied in the kit... I can't understand why Losi releases a high end racing Tourer and don't have threaded shocks!!!! I wouldn't have minded a slight higher price on the kit with threaded shocks on. It's quite funny they releases the car with the long shock bodies up front as well??? If they want to keep the cost down by just manufacture one type of shock, why not make the shock mounting a bit higher??? Even if you run the car setup for outdoor(higher rollcenter higher rideheight) the piston is a bit high in the shock!!
Just my thoughts....
/TeeJay
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Old 02-20-2002, 07:29 PM   #1962
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Quote:
Originally posted by TSR6


Grinch - I mounted the capacitor to the ESC, using ShoeGoo ( availible at places like Walmart, or i had seen it in Dynamite packaging once. ) It will hand over the chassis slightly, but just as long as there is arm clearance you should be fine.

Chassis/ESC Shot: http://www.shearracing.com/chrome3.jpg

Image is a little fuzzy, but it works...





Grinch I mounted my cap on the positive wire coming from the esc to the batt. side of chassis.I simply took a big piece of heat shrink to hold it in place[above the chassis].I'll get a image of it tomarrow to post,to give you a better idea.It's kinda hard to explain in writing.Better to see.
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Old 02-20-2002, 07:46 PM   #1963
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Ok grinch here is a pic.It's not mine but this guy is the one that gave me the great help with set up on my xxxs.
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Old 02-20-2002, 09:31 PM   #1964
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my graphite chasis is cracked on the battery side do you think it is ok to use .
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Old 02-20-2002, 10:39 PM   #1965
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here is my capacitor mounted, it's held on by goop
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Last edited by newracer; 02-21-2002 at 11:42 PM.
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