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Old 02-04-2002, 09:59 PM   #1816
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Most of the team guys left that plastic cover off (although they kept the tunnel cover on the bottom of the car).

I still leave mine on though. Until I can rattle off 5 minutes of perfect or near-perfect laps like those guys can, the extra grams I'll save without a gear cover won't make much of a difference.
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Old 02-05-2002, 03:28 AM   #1817
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Arnoud,

Unfortunatly for us xxxs people the TC3 has an internal gear ratio that makes it very quick on power. This is the key to its speed out of corners. What you must do to compensate for this is to use the corner speed of the losi to your advantage. The xxxs does not like to be thrown into corners like the tc3. apex your corners early to get on power sooner and use the speed on exit. If running a novak speedo drop the drive freq. to 7.xx or 5.xx and put the 90 tooth spur on the car. Do not run the belt too loose or it will drag on the chassis and hurt you more. Try a setup that keeps the car as flat as possible while not losing traction, usually stiff with long camber links.

The tc3 is really hard to beat in stock, but it is not as consistant a car. Make your drive train free and clean the bearings religiously. Dont tighten the spur too much(drag) And lower the rotating mass of the car.

Good luck

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Old 02-05-2002, 11:00 PM   #1818
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Well, so far, only two weekends with the XXX-S....and two A-Mains......and I am still running DIFFS!

The car is VERY stable and VERY easy to drive.

I always had to work hard at making the A with my TC3.......

One way arrived and will do some outdoor testing....maybe even a couple of days worth.

Stock chassis, short body/shaft front threaded front shocks, threaded rear shocks, spur gear adapter (to run 64 pitch)...and that is all the mods done to the car.
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Old 02-05-2002, 11:03 PM   #1819
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Oh....and a couple of things to help out the acceleration concern.....

Several things.

Run the belt tighter.

Make sure your diffs are not loose.

Switch to 64 pitch and run the largest spur that you can (more gear multiplication can help overcome the strangle of a tall - low numerically- gear ratio). The overall gear ratio may remain the same that you are running now, but 64 pitch is more efficient....and.....

If you are trying to move a boulder.....which stick would you pick? The stick that is 4 feet long or the 8 footer? ......ah......use the big spur gear grasshopper!
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Old 02-05-2002, 11:38 PM   #1820
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What's this spur gear adapter that you speak of?

Also the new issue of R/C Car (March 2002) has a great article on page 78 on one way bearings in which Mark Pavidis answers many questions about what a one-way does and when to use one and when not to.

Ultimately, the one-way bearing turns your 4WD car into a 2WD car when "off power." Mark aslo suggest using a one-way "on very high-speed, high-bite tracks with lots of flowing turns."

There's tons more great info in the article.

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Old 02-05-2002, 11:54 PM   #1821
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Thanks for the info. I'll start testing the ideas as of Thursday!
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Old 02-06-2002, 01:04 AM   #1822
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OK!!
I tested my newly milled chassis yesterday. I couldn't feel any difference(didn't think so either).
Tested some other stuff though.. If you run the low rollcenter mod, don't have too much ride height. I went from 5-6mm to 4mm and it made a BIG difference.(indoor carpet on rubber tires, Take Off CS22). With the higher setting I had understeer, after the change the car felt neutral near oversteer. Another thing to play with is the droop. Changing the droop can dramatically get the car from quick turnin to a little more moderate turn in. Of course all of these setup changes is dependent on the other settings. Currently I run purple spring front, blue back, 80w both ends, stock setting on links and shock location.

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Old 02-06-2002, 11:12 AM   #1823
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Cool TeeJay, I'm going to give your setup a try. I'll go get the springs today.


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Old 02-06-2002, 08:33 PM   #1824
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acloco, I agree with you. The XXX-S is very easy to drive and it absolutely ROCKS with the one-way. If you have any high speed sweeper corners on your track, you will be faster with the one-way. We have two on our track and I gained 1/2 sec, dropping my average lap times from 11.4 to 10.9. The only complaint I have with the XXX-S is that there are not very many fast lines with this car. There is a fastest and then there are much slower lines. The Mission and other cars seem to be able to carve different lines better - still putting down fast laps with different lines. I heard that all Losi cars are designed to be easy to drive. Don't know, this is my first Losi. Finally, droop setting change the feel of the car significantly.
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Old 02-07-2002, 02:37 AM   #1825
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RacerTex:
I owned a XX way back in 95 or something. It was the first year the car was available here in Sweden. It was very easy to drive!! And the stock setup seemed to work on 90% of the tracks I went to. First year I had it I was almost the only one with a Losi. The other drivers had AE and Scumacher. The year after I think almost 60-70% of the guys had Losis!!!
This year again not many racers has Losis. We'll see what happens next year. Here in Sweden we don't race electric Touring in the summer. We only race on carpet indoors. So I guess if someone's going to switch to Losi, it's going to be next year.
JitsuGuy:
Some droop settings to start with:
Front 4 (on the gauge that came with the kit)
Rear 6.
Don't forget to FIRST set the ridehight THEN the droop. This is beacuse the material the droopscrews are screwed into his so soft, and the pice on the H-arm the screw sits on flexes(at least mine does. How is the Graphite ones, does it flex??). Then after you have set the droop with the gauge, lift the car up on the front end, exactly in the middle and make sure the front wheels lifts from the ground at the same time. If not, chanses are you haven't set the droop exactly the same. If so, trim the droop(without the gauge) so the wheels lifts at the same time. Otherwise you will have a tweaked car, and it will steer better to one side than the other. When your done with the front, of course do the same on the rear!!! ;-)
/TeeJay
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Old 02-07-2002, 03:04 AM   #1826
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A note on Kindwalls "Swiss Cheese":
I rebuilded my diff last night. It took me about 25-35 minutes in total. I think I could do it 5-10 minutes faster if I try to do it fast. So the tradeoff with a open drivetrain to get more weight UNDER cg seems like a good one if youre ready to rebuild your diffs between qualifying and finals(or more often). The thing is, since he is a team driver he gets new diffrings, carbideballs and such when ever he wants. I'll stick to my closed drivetrain and rebuild my diffs more seldom.
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Old 02-07-2002, 07:01 AM   #1827
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To any XXXS drivers interested: I have started a project XXXS with the help of a couple of friends. It will be a fully milled chassis much like what Kinwald's is. It will be done out of a completly graphite car with titanium turnbuckles, aluminum cvd's and titanium ball studs throughout. The numbers listed below are the weight of the pieces we are going to mill. Stay tuned for updated info and pics hopefully by tomorrow a.m.

Chassis: 5.7 oz
Front Diff Cover: .5 oz
Rear Diff Cover: .5 oz

We are also going to try the Dynamite graphite shock towers, suppose to be lighter. Stay tuned for actual numbers.

Losi Graphite Shock Towers
Front: .3 oz
Rear: .4 oz

Later

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Old 02-07-2002, 07:59 AM   #1828
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Quote:
Originally posted by RacerTex
acloco, I agree with you. The XXX-S is very easy to drive and it absolutely ROCKS with the one-way. If you have any high speed sweeper corners on your track, you will be faster with the one-way. We have two on our track and I gained 1/2 sec, dropping my average lap times from 11.4 to 10.9. The only complaint I have with the XXX-S is that there are not very many fast lines with this car. There is a fastest and then there are much slower lines. The Mission and other cars seem to be able to carve different lines better - still putting down fast laps with different lines. I heard that all Losi cars are designed to be easy to drive. Don't know, this is my first Losi. Finally, droop setting change the feel of the car significantly.
I keep hearing that the car doesn't have the accelleration of a TC3 or mission from tracks all around but out here (Sacramento) the car keeps up with both of them in stock and mod. The car is so stable that you can sit back and drive or push it if you have to.
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Old 02-07-2002, 11:19 AM   #1829
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i have to agree w/ you. when i first got my xxx-s, i felt that my tc-3 was faster. but now i think my xxx-s has as much speed as my tc-3.

i do have a question though, should you run the belt tension loose or tight for stock. some guys i know run it loose, but that i read somewhere on this thread that says to run it tight. also, what are the effects of running it loose or tight?
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Old 02-07-2002, 11:27 AM   #1830
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diesel-Belt tension depends on what you are looking for. A tighter belt will give you a little bit more punch and less top speed. A losser belt will give more top end and less punch out of the corners. It all has to do with slack or no slack in the belt. hope this helps.

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