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Old 01-20-2002, 11:39 PM   #1666
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RacerTex, shorting the front camber link will increase the steering reaction. A shorter link is like running the low roll center plates. The car isn't gonna roll as much as it will with longer links. Also try putting enough washers under the front ball stud in the spindle carrier while making enough clearance for your wheel. Angling the camber link will also take away body roll in the front which in turn will increase the steering reaction or make the car more aggressive.
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Old 01-21-2002, 12:15 AM   #1667
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Quote:
Originally posted by littledog
My buddy proud tells me that there is a post in here bout how much shock shaft to cut off,but I really don't feel like going though all 56 pages of this forum to find it.If any one knows what I'm talking bout,give me a shout or post please. AIGHT!!

Littledog, cut .080" off the stock shock shaft. You can determine that by measuring the length of the shaft before you cut it, subtract .080" from it and thats the length you want them to be. After that, taper the sides of the threads on the end of the shaft and thread that shock ball end all the way onto the shaft untill it stops. Make sure you're in the original threads on the shock ball end. Now assemble the shock together just like they were but with no oil in it. Put the shock on the car and measure your droop. It'll probally say -1 to 0 on the droop gauge. You want to run 2 to 3 for our track. Now take the shock back off, disassemble it and add some inside limiters inbetween the piston and the shock cartridge. I added a .126" limiter. This modification gives me a droop setting of 2 and I have ride height adjustment anywhere from 3mm to 8mm. Be sure both shafts are the same size before you thread the shock ball ends onto the shafts after you cut them.
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Old 01-21-2002, 12:23 AM   #1668
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RacerTex, also try experimenting with the new green springs(inbetween the blue and purple) and the purple's.
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Old 01-21-2002, 12:53 AM   #1669
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RacerTex, you might want to make a sway bar for the front also. This is a simple step you can make to the car without destabilising the car's current setup. Try this first.
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Old 01-21-2002, 07:03 AM   #1670
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Hey proudwinner, Thanks for all the tips. I'll be experimenting with camber links and angles in my next testing session. I'll also get the shop to make some sway bars for me. I'll have to order the green springs though. Oh well, I have enough settings to test already. Thanks again.
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Old 01-21-2002, 11:54 AM   #1671
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Wink Parts interchange?

I've read a couple of messages in various places that have said that TC3 arms and hubs are interchangable between TC3 and the XXX-S. Well, I'm selling my TC3 and getting a XXX-s, and I have a good stock of TC3 parts, and I'm wondering what parts I should hold on to for Emergency spares.
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Old 01-21-2002, 12:52 PM   #1672
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ncrego, I've only found the caster blocks to be interchangeable. To be honest, I haven't tried to run with the front hubs. The rear hubs won't work. I've looked into that. If you get the BRP front bumber, you won't have to worry too much about the front end so for spares, just buy a pack or two of rear hubs and you're set.
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Old 01-21-2002, 04:28 PM   #1673
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proudwinner

what shock collars are those? part#? do they move at all while running?
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Old 01-21-2002, 04:41 PM   #1674
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Newracer, those are the Team Trinity shock collars; Part Number: TTK3048
LOSI THREADED SHOCK COLLARS, blue aluminum (4)/$6.95. As far as them moving, these baddaddys will not move once set. They carry an o-ring inside the collar which gives superior holding power to the shock body. They will not move, but be sure to lube the o-ring before installation. I used team associated's green slime since it's a lube formulated for rubber and plastic parts. Stormer hobbies has those collars in-stock as we speak. They are listed in the Kinwald listings. Good luck and happy racing!
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Old 01-21-2002, 10:13 PM   #1675
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thanks I picked up some tonight at my LHS.
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Old 01-22-2002, 09:22 PM   #1676
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Does the graphite chassis handle any different then the stock chassis?
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Old 01-23-2002, 09:23 AM   #1677
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Default Losi PN#9650

All, I just got the full graphite kit for my Losi XXX-S and noticed that the kit only has the graphite 0 degree castor blocks while the pictures on Losi's site show two sets of blocks, I guess 0 and 4. Does it come with one set or two?

Also, who has a carpet setup for rubber tires with HRC?
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Old 01-23-2002, 09:27 AM   #1678
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Quote:
Originally posted by yodace
Does the graphite chassis handle any different then the stock chassis?
I ran the stock chassis for a few weeks. Then I added the Graphite chassis, I didn't notice any handling difference. But my experience is limited compared to most on this site.
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Old 01-23-2002, 12:51 PM   #1679
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DOES ANYBODY ELSE HEAR THE CLICKING OR "CHATTERING" COME FROM THE FRONT END OF THEIR CAR? I KNOW THE BELT SKIPS UNDER HARD BRAKING, THAT'S NOT WHAT IT IS. I MOSTLY HEAR IT AS THE CAR EXITS TURNS. IS IT THE DIFFS OR IS IT THE MIP'S RATTLING AROUND? IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG OR IS IT NORMAL?
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Old 01-23-2002, 03:45 PM   #1680
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XER987: yes, it's from the CVD's......

If you take and limit the steering throw a little, that will go away...

Put the car on a stand, move the wheels while giving a little throtle....

You will need to set your end points if your radio has them...

Hope this helps......
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