Losi XXX-S
#1666
Tech Master
RacerTex, shorting the front camber link will increase the steering reaction. A shorter link is like running the low roll center plates. The car isn't gonna roll as much as it will with longer links. Also try putting enough washers under the front ball stud in the spindle carrier while making enough clearance for your wheel. Angling the camber link will also take away body roll in the front which in turn will increase the steering reaction or make the car more aggressive.
#1667
Tech Master
Originally posted by littledog
My buddy proud tells me that there is a post in here bout how much shock shaft to cut off,but I really don't feel like going though all 56 pages of this forum to find it.If any one knows what I'm talking bout,give me a shout or post please. AIGHT!!
My buddy proud tells me that there is a post in here bout how much shock shaft to cut off,but I really don't feel like going though all 56 pages of this forum to find it.If any one knows what I'm talking bout,give me a shout or post please. AIGHT!!
Littledog, cut .080" off the stock shock shaft. You can determine that by measuring the length of the shaft before you cut it, subtract .080" from it and thats the length you want them to be. After that, taper the sides of the threads on the end of the shaft and thread that shock ball end all the way onto the shaft untill it stops. Make sure you're in the original threads on the shock ball end. Now assemble the shock together just like they were but with no oil in it. Put the shock on the car and measure your droop. It'll probally say -1 to 0 on the droop gauge. You want to run 2 to 3 for our track. Now take the shock back off, disassemble it and add some inside limiters inbetween the piston and the shock cartridge. I added a .126" limiter. This modification gives me a droop setting of 2 and I have ride height adjustment anywhere from 3mm to 8mm. Be sure both shafts are the same size before you thread the shock ball ends onto the shafts after you cut them.
#1668
Tech Master
RacerTex, also try experimenting with the new green springs(inbetween the blue and purple) and the purple's.
#1669
Tech Master
RacerTex, you might want to make a sway bar for the front also. This is a simple step you can make to the car without destabilising the car's current setup. Try this first.
#1670
Hey proudwinner, Thanks for all the tips. I'll be experimenting with camber links and angles in my next testing session. I'll also get the shop to make some sway bars for me. I'll have to order the green springs though. Oh well, I have enough settings to test already. Thanks again.
#1671
Parts interchange?
I've read a couple of messages in various places that have said that TC3 arms and hubs are interchangable between TC3 and the XXX-S. Well, I'm selling my TC3 and getting a XXX-s, and I have a good stock of TC3 parts, and I'm wondering what parts I should hold on to for Emergency spares.
#1672
ncrego, I've only found the caster blocks to be interchangeable. To be honest, I haven't tried to run with the front hubs. The rear hubs won't work. I've looked into that. If you get the BRP front bumber, you won't have to worry too much about the front end so for spares, just buy a pack or two of rear hubs and you're set.
#1673
proudwinner
what shock collars are those? part#? do they move at all while running?
what shock collars are those? part#? do they move at all while running?
#1674
Tech Master
Newracer, those are the Team Trinity shock collars; Part Number: TTK3048
LOSI THREADED SHOCK COLLARS, blue aluminum (4)/$6.95. As far as them moving, these baddaddys will not move once set. They carry an o-ring inside the collar which gives superior holding power to the shock body. They will not move, but be sure to lube the o-ring before installation. I used team associated's green slime since it's a lube formulated for rubber and plastic parts. Stormer hobbies has those collars in-stock as we speak. They are listed in the Kinwald listings. Good luck and happy racing!
LOSI THREADED SHOCK COLLARS, blue aluminum (4)/$6.95. As far as them moving, these baddaddys will not move once set. They carry an o-ring inside the collar which gives superior holding power to the shock body. They will not move, but be sure to lube the o-ring before installation. I used team associated's green slime since it's a lube formulated for rubber and plastic parts. Stormer hobbies has those collars in-stock as we speak. They are listed in the Kinwald listings. Good luck and happy racing!
#1675
thanks I picked up some tonight at my LHS.
#1676
Does the graphite chassis handle any different then the stock chassis?
#1677
Tech Apprentice
Losi PN#9650
All, I just got the full graphite kit for my Losi XXX-S and noticed that the kit only has the graphite 0 degree castor blocks while the pictures on Losi's site show two sets of blocks, I guess 0 and 4. Does it come with one set or two?
Also, who has a carpet setup for rubber tires with HRC?
Also, who has a carpet setup for rubber tires with HRC?
#1678
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by yodace
Does the graphite chassis handle any different then the stock chassis?
Does the graphite chassis handle any different then the stock chassis?
#1679
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
DOES ANYBODY ELSE HEAR THE CLICKING OR "CHATTERING" COME FROM THE FRONT END OF THEIR CAR? I KNOW THE BELT SKIPS UNDER HARD BRAKING, THAT'S NOT WHAT IT IS. I MOSTLY HEAR IT AS THE CAR EXITS TURNS. IS IT THE DIFFS OR IS IT THE MIP'S RATTLING AROUND? IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG OR IS IT NORMAL?
#1680
Company Representative
iTrader: (14)
XER987: yes, it's from the CVD's......
If you take and limit the steering throw a little, that will go away...
Put the car on a stand, move the wheels while giving a little throtle....
You will need to set your end points if your radio has them...
Hope this helps......
If you take and limit the steering throw a little, that will go away...
Put the car on a stand, move the wheels while giving a little throtle....
You will need to set your end points if your radio has them...
Hope this helps......