Originally Posted by Way2Evl
So I decided to go with the Kopro 2413 servo. The other one just seemed a little complicated and I figure it would be something to upgrade to in the future.
Trying to find my LiPo now. What does it mean if it has a Traxxas connector? Is that a problem?
Originally Posted by Cpt.America
The Servo is the ONE piece of the car that you DONT want to skimp on. You want a servo with a lot of torque. I personally run a Futaba 9551 lopro on my Xray009, and its perfect in all regards. Small, fast, strong, and pretty affordable.
Also, make sure you buy a decent little temp gun, so you can temp your motor as you begin working on gearing and timing. You dont want to blow up your new 17.5.
In my opinion, the best lipo on the market is the IP 5600mah 50c battery. I just got one a few weeks ago, and it is flawless. You can buy it with bullet plugs, or a deans plug right from the factory.
About servos, enough has been said, and your choice is very good.
Here is why I chose mine.
I have found that you need serious torque and for peace of mind, I decided the JR was the best one can buy for its specs. If you check again you will see it is the only one of the three that has all the bells and whistles, plus is the fastest and has the highest torque.
I have watched cars thousands of times going around corners at high speeds and I have noticed some servos (including the Futaba S9551) simply can't hold against the mighty grip and centrifugal force (wheels hesitate and flutter). And yes, I checked afterwards what saver and if the driver was responsible for the hesitation I noticed. That's why I want the most torque I can get. Again, your choice isn't bad and may very well serve you perfectly. Just a point to remember. There is a KO servo on par with the JR, but more expensive (at least in Oz).
And yes, I have seen plenty of Futabas and KO (as well as other brands) with stripped gears. Slop is also an issue.
As Capt'n put it, you don't want to skimp on the servo.
For Lipo, go with Corally plugs and you can't go wrong. I have a box full of Deans connectors that failed in the most frustrating manner. They develop bad contact over time for a reason I still can't understand. I think the plastic softens around the contact blades due to the high currents drawn and these sink ever so slightly in the plastic and you end up with a dead connection. I gave them all up for good.
About Corally plugs if you decide for them, make sure and buy the real stuff with the twisted slotted spring sheath, the el cheapo copies will flatten and pop out of the battery randomly which is really frustrating.
About buying the best you can afford, I found this is the cheapest option in the long run. There's nothing more frustrating than trying to make do with something of poor quality. The amount you spent is normal. If I look back, in OZ, I had to spend about the same amount if not more to put any of my cars down on the track a competitive car.
The Xray is a weapon (I never said it is the best becasue I consider the best car depends on the driver, not the car) but you need to put it together carefully.
Whatever you do, don't rush.
From experience, I have noticed you need to rebuild the diffs from new. Sometimes they don't have any grease in and you'll destroy them if run like that.
Use loctite on screws rather than tightening them like you are building the Titanic.
Make sure you undertsand how to build and bleed the shocks before starting. These are really trick and wrok brilliantly, but if stuff them up they're expensive.
The balljoint cups are sided. Check carefully which side is which and use a something like a wheelbrace from a Tamiya kit (or anything made of soft metal like brass, aluminium, antimony, etc) to push down on the cups to drive them home over the balls. This will avoid scratching balls.
Personally I don't like the surface finish of the balls and the hard plastic of the cups in Xray kits so I replace them with Yokomo items. These are polished to a mirror finish and have a tighter fit too and because the plastic of the cups is more rubbery, they don't develop slop if need be to pull them out again and again. But I avoid this anyway and actually use the Yokomo drilled through balls so I can disconnect anything by taking out a screw rather than pull a ball out of the socket. When service time is at a premium, it's the fastest option. A bit of dry graphite powder goes a long way towards extending their life and keeping crap out too.