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Old 10-20-2010, 12:11 PM   #1381
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I use standard 44mm universal shafts from TA05 on mine.
The 46mm was too long i think.
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Old 10-20-2010, 12:48 PM   #1382
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WOW....I assumed there was a ready to go set of CVD's available but it appears that I have to buy the 46mm shafts, axles and hardware all separately.
Steve,

I took a set of M05 CVD and put on 44mm bones. Eddie says the 46mm bones don't fit if you have the aluminum outdrives.

Can't wait to get those graphite stiffening parts.
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Old 10-21-2010, 01:19 AM   #1383
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Can someone tell me what the internal drive ratio is for the FF03?
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Old 10-21-2010, 01:41 AM   #1384
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Can someone tell me what the internal drive ratio is for the FF03?
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:33 PM   #1385
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Four-Wheel-Peel Subie as a FWD



Painted with Tamiya PS-48 Metallic Silver (Chrome). It handles very well with a little more initial and mid corner speed than the Porsche body. Too bad it won't be legal for any TCS races.
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Tamiya FF03-ff03_cusco1.jpg   Tamiya FF03-ff03_cusco2.jpg   Tamiya FF03-ff03_cusco3.jpg  
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Old 10-23-2010, 10:49 PM   #1386
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Four-Wheel-Peel Subie as a FWD



Painted with Tamiya PS-48 Metallic Silver (Chrome). It handles very well with a little more initial and mid corner speed than the Porsche body. Too bad it won't be legal for any TCS races.
Sweet looking ride, dude.
So niceeee.
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Old 10-24-2010, 05:58 AM   #1387
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Steve,

I took a set of M05 CVD and put on 44mm bones. Eddie says the 46mm bones don't fit if you have the aluminum outdrives.

Can't wait to get those graphite stiffening parts.
Mike - so it's 46mm bones for the stock plastic outdrives or 44mm for the aluminum outdrives.

Last edited by SteveM; 10-25-2010 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 10-24-2010, 02:00 PM   #1388
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Default FF03 non-PRO version

Hi does anyone have a manual of the non-PRO version? All I can find is the Pro manual. Even TamiyaUSA doesnt have a copy on the site...

What I am trying to find out is if it is necessary to get the aluminium motor plate as a hop-up. I would assume that the non-pro version has a metal motor plate at least..I would rather spend the money on a viable part that is useful.
Although the pro version is nice, I reckon spending a little bit more on hopping up a std version would be money better spent. Sure, the TRF shocks are a bit pricey, but they are probably worth it, now I just need to know what else to get...I was thinking

(#54233) FF-03 Aluminum Diff Joint Set for FF-03 and FF-03 PRO
(#54235) FF-03 Alum. Racing Steering Set

and is this a necessary hopup, it seems the gears are a little suspect on this car too...

(#13504011) Counter Gear For FF-03

With a set of universals, and TRF dampers, I reckon this would be a better option than a PRO where I would have to buy a body kit, and I would get the diff set and the steering anyway so I would be about the same...

Any opinions would be appreciated...
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Old 10-24-2010, 02:11 PM   #1389
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Parts instock !

http://rcmarket.com.hk/index.php?cPath=51_98_120_278
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Old 10-24-2010, 07:40 PM   #1390
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Originally Posted by sirandy View Post
Hi does anyone have a manual of the non-PRO version? All I can find is the Pro manual. Even TamiyaUSA doesnt have a copy on the site...

What I am trying to find out is if it is necessary to get the aluminium motor plate as a hop-up. I would assume that the non-pro version has a metal motor plate at least..I would rather spend the money on a viable part that is useful.
Although the pro version is nice, I reckon spending a little bit more on hopping up a std version would be money better spent. Sure, the TRF shocks are a bit pricey, but they are probably worth it, now I just need to know what else to get...I was thinking

(#54233) FF-03 Aluminum Diff Joint Set for FF-03 and FF-03 PRO
(#54235) FF-03 Alum. Racing Steering Set

and is this a necessary hopup, it seems the gears are a little suspect on this car too...

(#13504011) Counter Gear For FF-03

With a set of universals, and TRF dampers, I reckon this would be a better option than a PRO where I would have to buy a body kit, and I would get the diff set and the steering anyway so I would be about the same...

Any opinions would be appreciated...
I was thinking along the same lines as you before I picked up a used Pro for a good price. I actually prefer some of the parts that come on the non-pro kit, like the steel turnbuckles and ball ends.

The non-pro kit comes with an aluminum motor plate as well, as far as I can tell the only difference other than the blingy blue colour is the lack of cooling cutouts and mounts for the DF-03 heat sinks. So probably not necessary to upgrade right off the bat.

I also don't personally think the aluminum steering is necessary. You can replace the bushings in the stock plastic arms with bearings, and make the steering just as smooth. The aluminum looks nice, but I's rather have the plastic steering parts break in a crash than transferring all of the impact force to the servo saver.

Diff joints are a good idea, as well as CVDs. Those would have been my first upgrades. Look into upgrading to the TRF 416 diff adjustment screw and nut, and pick up some good diff grease.

Finally, you likely won't see a reduction in your lap times by upgrading to the TRF shocks, so a set of springs and oils would likely get you up a running before you need to step up to the fancy shocks. The stock plastic shocks work pretty good.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:16 PM   #1391
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Get the pro.
The cost of shocks alone will get you past the cost difference and you'll want a different body and real race wheels and tires cuz-

The Civic body sucks (no wing), tires/wheels suck (wear out fast), shocks suck (if you run em, go heavy on the oil cuz they are loose and sloppy inside).

I have the non pro, the diff, all plastic is working fine, I finally stripped the idler gear but only after many, many days of racing and practice.
Tamiya has a new one now.
Do not let the diff slip! It will last.
Dog bones work fine if not better, more free but will wear although mine haven't yet. Anti wear grease on bones at the hubs helps a lot.

I only spent money on shocks, tires/wheels and body.
It's fast and handles very well.

Copy Rod's setup from the Tamiya website and drive it.
I'm getting away with out the extra hinge pin braces etc. but the basic setup is very dialed most everywhere IF you have a body with a rear wing.
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:27 PM   #1392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sirandy View Post
Hi does anyone have a manual of the non-PRO version? All I can find is the Pro manual. Even TamiyaUSA doesnt have a copy on the site...
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/download/rcmanual/ff03.pdf
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:14 AM   #1393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtypec View Post
Four-Wheel-Peel Subie as a FWD



Painted with Tamiya PS-48 Metallic Silver (Chrome). It handles very well with a little more initial and mid corner speed than the Porsche body. Too bad it won't be legal for any TCS races.
Well the motor is in the right place, and if the rear prop shaft snaps then .....
And anyway, the US Tamiya series allows a Porsche to be run, so ....
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:34 AM   #1394
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Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
Mike - so it's 46mm bones for the stock plastic outdrives or 44mm for the aluinum outdrives.
well I hope the 46mm shafts fit with the Aluminum diff halves cause I just ordered a set...

Rod C's set up from TCS shows both Alu outdrives and 46mm shafts
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:15 AM   #1395
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I also have the 46mm universals and the alu diff joints and it all works great.
After 2 months of regular driving i still didn't have to do maintenance on the diff, and after al that driving the diff still feels very smooth.
A real plesure
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