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Old 10-11-2010, 04:24 PM   #1306
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hmm...I really should be working
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Old 10-11-2010, 05:09 PM   #1307
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hmm...I really should be working
Hey...you gotta be in touch with the needs and whims of your clientele. You can write that purchase off!
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:15 AM   #1308
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Why don't you guys just run 27t stock motors? You can cut them on a lathe, and still use the same ESCs you have been. Not to mention they can be had cheap or free.

/waiting for flames
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:42 AM   #1309
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/waiting for flames
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Old 10-12-2010, 10:16 AM   #1310
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Why don't you guys just run 27t stock motors? You can cut them on a lathe, and still use the same ESCs you have been. Not to mention they can be had cheap or free.

/waiting for flames
That's what I ran when I first got my F103

Loved it, tons of punch and brake.

No one else was happy tho. Braaaaaap.
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Old 10-12-2010, 12:32 PM   #1311
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Default Chassis Balance

I picked up a FF03 and have been putting it together. I am to the point where the motor is mounted and noted the out of balance nature of the car with the motor hanging off the front. Similar in effect to 2wd buggies and trucks with the motor hangining off the rear end.

How is everyone balancing the car, both front to back and side to side?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.
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Old 10-12-2010, 02:31 PM   #1312
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That's what I ran when I first got my F103

Loved it, tons of punch and brake.

No one else was happy tho. Braaaaaap.
Funny old world isn't it.

Actual "Race" motors that CAN be modified aren't as popular as Modified kit motors that have no visible means of adjustment or replacement parts...
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Old 10-12-2010, 02:32 PM   #1313
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Being a traditionalist.
I am NOT in favor of changing the motors.
I am in favor of RPM limits.

When BL & Lipo came out it was to be the "savior" of everything.
Buy a motor/battery once and be good for 10 years.
Unfortunately both techs change multiple times a year making this year's battery/motor combo obsolete next year, mainly due to stopped production. Now if there was a BL/Lipo combo that was totally narrowly "spec" mandated by ROAR or Tamiya, I would go for it. As of right now, that is only a fantasy.

Having an OPEN RPM limit race, only will favor those who either buy motors from Doc, Grandpa, Swifty or others and know how to keep them in tune. If Rod was running a 18k motor at 5v, that will blow away stock 11500 motors at 5v. You would need to be within 500 RPM to be competitive. I have had motors that were off 1k and could not catch the leaders. That would be my speculation in why he lapped the field, plus being a darn good driver and chassis tuner.
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Old 10-12-2010, 02:33 PM   #1314
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Originally Posted by JSeay View Post
I picked up a FF03 and have been putting it together. I am to the point where the motor is mounted and noted the out of balance nature of the car with the motor hanging off the front. Similar in effect to 2wd buggies and trucks with the motor hangining off the rear end.

How is everyone balancing the car, both front to back and side to side?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.
My FFo3 is balanced perfectly without any side weight.
And I think you'll find the more weight on the front, the better for acceleration.
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Old 10-12-2010, 02:41 PM   #1315
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Originally Posted by A-Ko View Post
Being a traditionalist.
I am NOT in favor of changing the motors.
I am in favor of RPM limits.

When BL & Lipo came out it was to be the "savior" of everything.
Buy a motor/battery once and be good for 10 years.
Unfortunately both techs change multiple times a year making this year's battery/motor combo obsolete next year, mainly due to stopped production. Now if there was a BL/Lipo combo that was totally narrowly "spec" mandated by ROAR or Tamiya, I would go for it. As of right now, that is only a fantasy.

Having an OPEN RPM limit race, only will favor those who either buy motors from Doc, Grandpa, Swifty or others and know how to keep them in tune. If Rod was running a 18k motor at 5v, that will blow away stock 11500 motors at 5v. You would need to be within 500 RPM to be competitive. I have had motors that were off 1k and could not catch the leaders. That would be my speculation in why he lapped the field, plus being a darn good driver and chassis tuner.
fwiw
The Tekin RS/Redline 21.5 combo is STILL the motor of choice for many of our F1 racers, and that has been out for some time now, C rating means nothing with high wind BL motors, if you go by what the fast guys at the iic were using, 20C was all that was needed.
Boost or no boost, at least you have options that are up front and not muddled under speculation.
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Old 10-12-2010, 02:58 PM   #1316
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Just for info ...
We have been running the 15T HPI Firebolt motors in GT Pan cars.
I pcked up 3 motors at one time and there was a huge difference in performance between them, not that this mattered too much to me as I only used them in the wet weather car, (my dry car is 2s 17.5).
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Old 10-12-2010, 04:05 PM   #1317
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How about a thread dedicated to this discussion, to keep this and other threads more on topic ?
"Silvercan" Racing - The Good, The Bad, The Ugly
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Old 10-12-2010, 04:21 PM   #1318
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
My FFo3 is balanced perfectly without any side weight.
And I think you'll find the more weight on the front, the better for acceleration.
That is good info to know. I will get it assembled and go from there. Anyone have suggestions on a starting point for gearing with the included silvercan for the local tracks in So Cal?
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Old 10-12-2010, 04:26 PM   #1319
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Originally Posted by A-Ko View Post
Being a traditionalist.
I am NOT in favor of changing the motors.
I am in favor of RPM limits.

When BL & Lipo came out it was to be the "savior" of everything.
Buy a motor/battery once and be good for 10 years.
Unfortunately both techs change multiple times a year making this year's battery/motor combo obsolete next year, mainly due to stopped production. Now if there was a BL/Lipo combo that was totally narrowly "spec" mandated by ROAR or Tamiya, I would go for it. As of right now, that is only a fantasy.

Having an OPEN RPM limit race, only will favor those who either buy motors from Doc, Grandpa, Swifty or others and know how to keep them in tune. If Rod was running a 18k motor at 5v, that will blow away stock 11500 motors at 5v. You would need to be within 500 RPM to be competitive. I have had motors that were off 1k and could not catch the leaders. That would be my speculation in why he lapped the field, plus being a darn good driver and chassis tuner.
Never have sold a motor in my life. Gave a ton of them away after I was done "tuning" them cause they were no longer a source of information. Also swapped some motors for a NIB motor. I'm ashamed to say, there was a time when I was out of money and motors to play with when I'd swap a motor for 2 NIB motors so I could have some motors to experiment with.

Thank you for the compliment, but let's face it, the rest of us are amatuers compared to Doc. Also, Rod's motor was not a 18k @ 5v motor. Not even close. Hand out motors remember. Swifty did his motor and it was "old school".
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:05 PM   #1320
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Guys, as far as gearing goes, will standard 48P/64P pinions and spurs fit in this car?
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