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Old 10-06-2010, 12:02 PM   #1231
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can anyone help me out, is it possible to make the ff03 into a 237mm wheel base, no matter how i do it i cannot get 237mm using the spacer info, from perivous thread, and what wheel base is the renault clio, some say 245mm others say 251mm which is it thanks, for all the help
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:10 PM   #1232
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the Renault Clio is 245mm wheelbase
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:24 PM   #1233
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the Renault Clio is 245mm wheelbase
thanks, now if somebody can let me know if i can make the ff03 237mm wheelbase thanks
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:27 PM   #1234
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which body are you trying to fit on the ff03?
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:28 PM   #1235
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thanks, now if somebody can let me know if i can make the ff03 237mm wheelbase thanks
FYI:

3 wheelbases (257, 245, 233mm) can be assembled by replacing rear block parts.Rear dampers can be installed to either side of the suspension arms.
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:44 PM   #1236
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FYI:

3 wheelbases (257, 245, 233mm) can be assembled by replacing rear block parts.Rear dampers can be installed to either side of the suspension arms.
hi, thanks, i have the tamiya corolla wrc body which is 237mm wheelbase, as for the adjustments on the ff03, you can change the wheelbase by moving the spacers in the front and rear to achive a desired wheelbase, so if i use the 233mm and then move the spacers accordingly will i get 237mm, so my question is has anyone tried to achive this wheel base, as the measurement for j12 is 2.5mm or is it 3mm, and j14 is it 0.5mm or 1mm, and j11 and j9 what are their widths, with this info i can determine if the car can be a 237mm, so if anyone can measure the spacers and let me know exact width, i would really apperciate it thanks
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:04 PM   #1237
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I would just try using a ruler to measure the wheelbase. The TA03 had a short wheelbase version that was 237mm.

Get this spacer set: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53539

Use two MB8 (2mm) on each side of rear end to extend from 233 to 237mm wheelbase.
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Old 10-06-2010, 05:32 PM   #1238
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Here's a decent pic of the new Type R body. About time they released a new body too! Hope there's more to come...

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Old 10-06-2010, 06:28 PM   #1239
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Default new part

FYI... essential part, get em while they last
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54262
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:52 PM   #1240
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Quote:
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Here's a decent pic of the new Type R body. About time they released a new body too! Hope there's more to come...

Love the design, style, courage of Honda to bring out an outstanding different cool looking car like that but I'd get it for my wife (when I get married) and have a Japan version Civic for me.



... or better yet. A Japanese Civic for my wife and a NSX RR for me. ...and NOT the HSV-10 becouse it's butt ugly compared to the NSX!
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Old 10-07-2010, 08:43 AM   #1241
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Hey, I was wondering if you guys could answer a few questions for me on the FF03?? I retired from racing back in 2005 and was thinking of building one of these as just a super fast parking lot runner,not for track duty. What I would like to know is......

What do you guys recommend as the most powerful brushless setup to run on this chassis without grenading the diffs? I plan to run 2s lipo only.

Are there any fitment issues with 2 s lipo packs hard,or soft case?

What are the recommended upgrades that should be performed right out of the box for the setup I want to run? I know that almost every vehicle has at least 2 issues that should be resolved before even running it.

I have been an avid fan of the FF series since it's inception and own every vehicle ever released on that platform but I am dying to add an FF03 to the collection. Hope you guys can help me out thanks!!!
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Old 10-07-2010, 10:13 AM   #1242
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speededude,

Seems as the only parts to fail have been the plastic idler gear in the trans and the plastic outdrives.

Speedtech has the aftermarket ones available, the outdrives are aluminum and the idler is supposed to be tougher.

Hasn't happened to me yet but I only run silver can til last week when I ran 21.5, still no issues.
Mine is box stock, idler, dogbones, plastic outdrives, plastic spur gear holder etc.
I've been runnin the heck out of it with no issues.
Most guys have replaced all these parts with aluminum pieces and cvds.

I'll repeat myself and say if the diff slips it will die, snug it up to be sure it wont happen.
That is all I have made sure of besides anti wear grease on the metal to metal at the bones/outdrives.
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:14 PM   #1243
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Get cv joints. Then reinforce the diff, use antiwear grease on gears and drive shaft contact point with the diff joint output. Sway bars next and TRF shocks w/ threadded body for easy adjustment. You can start lighten the car later with carbon fiber parts. There is a TT01 motor heatsink clip-on style you can use, it's only $7 or $8 but helps motor cool.
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Old 10-07-2010, 01:49 PM   #1244
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My bones are working fine, actually less drag, if you don't feel the need to $ for cvds.

Another heatsink that works is the TB03 with a couple fins removed, had that on until I got turned on to a 3 Racing heatsink/fan that also clips on with a couple fins removed. $6 ebay store if you search it, any color you like.

It is also TCS legal as it is considered a fan mount which are all legal.
This is with the approval of the man himself Fred M.
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Old 10-07-2010, 04:51 PM   #1245
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Questions?? Who Dat?

Anyone know what body it is in this vid? Tamiya?

FF03 Body?
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