F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

OK, decided to build my non pro kit.
Runner up swag.

I hear it will be ok and I do have the blue alum. motor mount.

Any other must have pieces before gettin too far into it or will it be ok to get it on the track as is?

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

I have no idea what your saying Can you please explain this starting at Any other? Sorry maybe it's me.

minimadman2003

iTrader: (44)

You'll want the aluminum diff halves. And if you build it with them, you will be more likely to salvage parts when it loosens up on you (and it will). As I was rebuilding mine this weekend at the Nats, Jeff (Speedtech) recommended the 416 diff screw/nut set in place of the original. I used it, and it held up for the last qualifier and main. Turns out my thrust bearing was crushed, and that was most likely the root of my problem. I think the 416 screw may help by providing more evenly distributed pressure on the thrust bearing. And as an added bonus, I can adjust the diff without dropping the dogbone now.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Am I missing something?


I saw earlier that Rodzilla sees no issues with the diff, screws etc.

Are we sure they are being built right.

Would be nice to get tips if necessary before I get into mine.

I heard about some sort of diff half assembly that can get overlooked and done reversed?
Arrows marked on ???????

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

Nah dude it was me. Have you ever turned on a radio to a song and you knew what song it was but it sounded like the timing was off? Like the drums sounded like they were on the up beat? I guess my eyes were reading faster than my brain was processing

minimadman2003

iTrader: (44)

I can't speak for Rod, but everyone back home has had diff issues, and we're talking about Tamiya enthusiasts with years of kit building experience. Likewise, Gary and Jeff were both telling me about all of the stories they had heard from customers that also had problems with nuts backing out or thrust bearing failures. So much so that Speedtech was well stocked with diff screws and thrust bearings, because when you melt the plastic halves you don't get the hardware back easily.

It may help that Rod (1) is a very clean driver, and (2) rebuilds his car after every run (or so it appeared). I believe he even had a spare diff or two laying around this weekend.

There are a few tricky assembly instructions where you flip the diff around, but even following those instructions perfectly the diff may still fail. It may be a problem where we have over tightened the diffs, but I don't really know for sure. I didn't think I had cranked it down.

Hey, it's just my 0.02. Take it for what it's worth.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Beginners, bah! I love mine.

I've been running it in our silver can TC class and doing well. First people laugh at my GTI out there with the touring cars and then they come sniffing around the pits to see what it could be that is so dialed.

I am putting a 21.5/zero timing setup in it for next race. Silver can racing up here followed the typical arc over the last few months -- close, super-fun racing at first, then people started playing with motors a bit for an edge, and now there's a big horsepower disparity. People just aren't capable of respecting the "box-stock silver can" rule.

Anyway, I've run 21.5/zero before (USVTA) and it's really close to a good silver can, at least at our track. I know that once people see the speed is right and, more importantly, much more consistent from one car to the next, it'll catch on.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Also, I have the stock plastic diff. I built it exactly according to the instructions, haven't touched it since, and have had zero issues.

I also run 46mm universals which work perfectly for me as well.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

It is a major diff issue that is also happening in the M05. If tightened had they simply undo hemselves.

3 Racing are son to make a 2.6mm bolt and matching thrust to help stop this problem.

As I have said before the TRF201 has the same design diff but no issues and it is fitted with a larger diameter bolt

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Is this diff adjustable from the outside, like on my offroad buggies etc. or is it set to a certain feel then thrown into the cases and then you roll the dice that it won't slip, ever?
I'm askin cuz I haven't even opened the box and I have no clue.

I know for a fact that if a diff is allowed to slip, even a tiny bit, like some will swear it should to aid in traction on a loose surface, it will fry eventually.

If it is never allowed to slip like a clutch, it will last a long, long time.

If it is loosening on it's own, that is gonna suck bigtime.

Wow, another reason F1 is so cool, 5 second diff rebuilds.

minimadman2003

iTrader: (44)

The stock diff screw is an allen head and adjusts just like your SC10, where you have to drop the dogbone out of the cup first. The 416 diff screw is a large slot that allows you to put a small hex wrench across it (like a Losi), so you can make adjustments trackside without much fuss.

We'll see how mine holds up now. Maybe I just screwed the first one up while assembling it.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Should the key to sucess on this diff be the same as any other?

Basically sneak up on the correct "tightness" by taking baby steps tighter and tighter til it cannot slip (I hold both wheels and blip the throttle) yet not be overtightened as to make it ineffective as a diff (a locked spool) or damage anything like the diff halves, screw, nut...

Again, if it slips like a clutch, it fries.

If it loosens on it's own, it sucks.

I do want the slotted diff screw tho, thanks minimadmandude!

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

not to take away from the diff issue, but does the corolla wrc 237mm fit this chassie

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

..........

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

Cuda..

Stock diff is fine.. build per instructions.. Diff is adjustable extranally when installed in greabox/chassis, just need to remove c-hub/hub pin to get a straight shot at it.. can be adjusted in 5 min once you get it down..

Slotted diff screw is stronger cause it has a long shoulder... (not threaded the entire length) but will require loctite to secure to supplied t-nut.. doesnt come with locknut