R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-01-2010, 04:46 AM   #826
Tech Champion
 
cannon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: A total distraction
Posts: 7,266
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Some information from the TRF201 thread.

The TRF201 buggy uses basically the same gearbox and the weak point has been the idler gear which has self destructed and is of poor quality. You may find this will happen with the FF03 idler gear as well. RW Racing has done a replacement machined plastic idler gear to solve the issue
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com ........... new website
cannon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 08:59 AM   #827
Tech Elite
 
reenmachine's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Studio City, CA
Posts: 2,539
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by foampervert View Post
What motor and esc setup are you using? I believe the stock diff halves, suspension blocks and stuff are perfectly fine for use with lightly tuned motors, silver cans or high turn brushless setups(17.5, 18 or 21.5)
Tekin FX and silver can.
Quote:
Originally Posted by foampervert View Post
Do you glue the diff rings to the diff halves and with what type of glue?
Yes, super-thin film of shoe goo. the instructions specified rubberized glue vs. CA so I figured there must be a reason. Cushioning?
Quote:
Originally Posted by foampervert View Post
Likewise, for the suspension blocks, at lower speeds and handling forces do not affect the durability and handling of the plastic blocks as much.
I'm sure that's true.
__________________
Pete Waydo
2010 Big Fat Turkey Race Mini Cooper AAA Main Champion
*** currently in stasis ***
reenmachine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 03:00 PM   #828
Tech Master
 
NiMo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Luton, England
Posts: 1,704
Default

Beginning to get frustrated with this car.
Handling now very good since going stiffer on springs all round, but .....
ANOTHER BLOWN DIFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have replaced the Thrust Bearing with old school ball and plates
Replaced the bold and lock nut
Yet STILL it does a sudden undo during a race losing all drive, and needs 2 full turns to do it up again.
Great car, SHIT DIFF
Need to find an aftermarket alternative very soon

I took FTD in 17.5 against 4wd cars but diff gave out driving to the line, wasn't even under any real power which is what's getting me

If I can find one I'd be fitting a spool to the car as diffing out is a major head ache
NiMo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 09:20 PM   #829
Tech Champion
 
cannon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: A total distraction
Posts: 7,266
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo View Post
Beginning to get frustrated with this car.
Handling now very good since going stiffer on springs all round, but .....
ANOTHER BLOWN DIFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have replaced the Thrust Bearing with old school ball and plates
Replaced the bold and lock nut
Yet STILL it does a sudden undo during a race losing all drive, and needs 2 full turns to do it up again.
Great car, SHIT DIFF
Need to find an aftermarket alternative very soon

I took FTD in 17.5 against 4wd cars but diff gave out driving to the line, wasn't even under any real power which is what's getting me

If I can find one I'd be fitting a spool to the car as diffing out is a major head ache
AS I have said before this diff is very similar to the ball diff for the M05 and guess what?????? That diff comes undone all the time.

Also this diff in the FF03 is the same ratio as the one in the TRF201 except for two small differences:

* The 201 has the old fashion ball and plates

* It uses the alloy winged nut used in TRF cars instead of the plastic holder and nyloc nut. Food for thought. I am hoping that this works as I built mine with the winged alloy nut straight away. Haven't had time to run it yet though
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com ........... new website

Last edited by cannon; 08-01-2010 at 10:06 PM.
cannon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 09:58 PM   #830
Tech Master
 
tamiyarcracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,634
Send a message via Yahoo to tamiyarcracer
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo View Post
Beginning to get frustrated with this car.
Handling now very good since going stiffer on springs all round, but .....
ANOTHER BLOWN DIFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have replaced the Thrust Bearing with old school ball and plates
Replaced the bold and lock nut
Yet STILL it does a sudden undo during a race losing all drive, and needs 2 full turns to do it up again.
Great car, SHIT DIFF
Need to find an aftermarket alternative very soon

I took FTD in 17.5 against 4wd cars but diff gave out driving to the line, wasn't even under any real power which is what's getting me

If I can find one I'd be fitting a spool to the car as diffing out is a major head ache
Is the screw head on the correct side of the car, as per step 3 in the instructions?
tamiyarcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 10:04 PM   #831
Tech Champion
 
cannon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: A total distraction
Posts: 7,266
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer View Post
Is the screw head on the correct side of the car, as per step 3 in the instructions?

It is not to do with what side it is on. It is the poor quality of nyloc nut used. The M05 does the same thing with its ball diff
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com ........... new website
cannon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 10:09 PM   #832
Tech Master
 
tamiyarcracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,634
Send a message via Yahoo to tamiyarcracer
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cannon View Post
It is not to do with what side it is on. It is the poor quality of nyloc nut used. The M05 does the same thing with its ball diff
I don't have any problems with my M05 diff either.

Like I have mentioned earlier. we had a problem with the TB02 diff, and once we made sure the Thrust bearing was oriented correctly, the problem went away.

You have to think of one thing, it does matter what way the diff is in cause if it is allowed to spin counter clockwise, then there is a change that it will help un-thread. for this reason on full sized cars they use a reverse thread on one side of the car when using a mono nut to hold the wheels on.
tamiyarcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 10:20 PM   #833
Tech Champion
 
cannon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: A total distraction
Posts: 7,266
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Here in Australia I sell parts etc. To date we have seen virtually every M05 ball diff fail. They are built correctly and placed in the car correctly.

The only ones that have worked are those that have used the TRF alloy winged nut and threadlock on the screw.

I feel that the FF03 diff may have similar problems. It is interesting that the TRF201 guys are not reporting diff failure and their diffs have balls and plates and TRF alloy winged nut
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com ........... new website
cannon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2010, 10:42 PM   #834
Tech Master
 
tamiyarcracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 1,634
Send a message via Yahoo to tamiyarcracer
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cannon View Post
Here in Australia I sell parts etc. To date we have seen virtually every M05 ball diff fail. They are built correctly and placed in the car correctly.

The only ones that have worked are those that have used the TRF alloy winged nut and threadlock on the screw.

I feel that the FF03 diff may have similar problems. It is interesting that the TRF201 guys are not reporting diff failure and their diffs have balls and plates and TRF alloy winged nut
Well, here in the states, I have not seen or head many problems. Not sure what is so different.

Like I said I've seen flipping the thrust bearing over, made a huge difference in the TB02, and that is the only way I build my diffs now.
tamiyarcracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2010, 05:16 AM   #835
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dubai
Posts: 28
Default

been runnin my FF03 PRO here in Dubai's hot weather almost everyday for two weeks now and i dont have issues with the diff nor the idler gears. i am using the aluminum diff halves and stock shafts. only issue now is my right bottom king pin that keeps coming out during right tight turns. i guess its time to buy the aluminum ones. haayyzzzz...
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya FF03-img_5225.jpg  
jebolution is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2010, 05:22 AM   #836
Tech Champion
 
cannon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: A total distraction
Posts: 7,266
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jebolution View Post
been runnin my FF03 PRO here in Dubai's hot weather almost everyday for two weeks now and i dont have issues with the diff nor the idler gears. i am using the aluminum diff halves and stock shafts. only issue now is my right bottom king pin that keeps coming out during right tight turns. i guess its time to buy the aluminum ones. haayyzzzz...
Good to hear. Maybe the idler gear is not as suspect in an onroad car as in the offroad buggy
__________________
www.feralbatteries.com ........... new website
cannon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2010, 09:59 AM   #837
Tech Elite
 
rtypec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,959
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

The issues that cannon have been mentioning are non-existent in my area as well. Perhaps there is something going on in your local. Statments about substandard parts, materials, design, etc. are not entirely true nor do they reflect what most drivers are experiencing. The "poor quality of nyloc nut" with plastic nut holder have been around for ages and survive the power of 6-cell 3.5 Turn Brushless monsters so they should handle most applications with no trouble.
rtypec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2010, 10:48 AM   #838
Tech Master
 
NiMo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Luton, England
Posts: 1,704
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer View Post
Is the screw head on the correct side of the car, as per step 3 in the instructions?
I have tried every possible placement of parts
running old style ball and plates lasted 8 runs before failure, much longer than original thrust bearing.
Have even used Hot Bodies diff bolt and nut/wing unit, but still it gives in.
What puzzles me is that in goes suddenly, and at any power setting.
I am running with the HPI Firebolt motor, this is less punchy than a 17.5 and not quite as fast.
Diff is fine until you want it that little bit tighter then it fails, yet there is no sign of threads stripping or slipping.
Just so annoyed at this diff, rest of car is great.
just wondering if universals and alloy diff cups will cure it?
NiMo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2010, 11:54 AM   #839
Tech Master
 
NiMo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Luton, England
Posts: 1,704
Default

I see at Speedtech they list these shafts for the:
416 series, TA05 IFS/V2, TB03, etc.

Wonder if that includes the FF03 as well?




Also thinking of widening the car, and wonder how wide it would be with X holders in place of the XD holders? or if I need to go wider? (think there is a limit?)
NiMo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2010, 01:04 PM   #840
Tech Lord
 
Hebiki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 12,919
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo View Post
I see at Speedtech they list these shafts for the:
416 series, TA05 IFS/V2, TB03, etc.

Wonder if that includes the FF03 as well?




Also thinking of widening the car, and wonder how wide it would be with X holders in place of the XD holders? or if I need to go wider? (think there is a limit?)
you can probably go REALLY wide.. since tamiya does make a 48mm swing shaft. (at one point set ups had D/D up front)

not to mention you can use the old long arms.

(to answer your question.. not sure what the EXACT measurement is in terms of width when you go from XD to X.)
__________________
Hebiki Design Works
Custom R/C Vinyl Graphics & Apparel: Your gear, your way!
Web Design - Web Development - Logo Design - Graphic Design
www.facebook.com/HebikiDesignWorks
Hebiki is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tamiya Championship Series Neil Rabara Racing Forum 20851 Yesterday 10:21 PM
FWD TOURING CAR FORUM - Tamiya FF01, FF02, Yokomo YRF-2, Kyosho Mantis FF Mike Schumacher Electric On-Road 711 01-08-2017 09:27 AM
M03/M05's - The Aussie Mini Racing thread tony gray Australian Racing 5774 09-23-2016 10:49 PM
New Gen Front Wheel Drive Touring Cars (TAMIYA FF-03 PRO, T.O.P. Sabre FD) Rod M Australian Racing 34 06-11-2012 12:28 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:24 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0