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Old 07-21-2010, 06:32 AM   #721
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What about spacing of the servo on the servo posts? I have not put my servo in but in other cars it can make a difference to how the link moves. Did you use the spacers?
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:37 AM   #722
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yes, as per manual.

oh and when i turn right, the front right knuckles is hitting the shocks pushrod too... and if i turn left, has a big clearance. but thats not an issue

i removed the steering rods to check the length and both are the same, 15mm in length.

Is this when the car is set to proper ride height. Mine will touch without the shocks in place but are fine when set to ride height
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:38 AM   #723
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What about spacing of the servo on the servo posts? I have not put my servo in but in other cars it can make a difference to how the link moves. Did you use the spacers?
Doubt it would make a difference, it is the servo horn cup touching the servo itself, and not any part of the car
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:41 AM   #724
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Doubt it would make a difference, it is the servo horn cup touching the servo itself, and not any part of the car

I have found some servos to have slightly different case shape which can cause problems
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:50 AM   #725
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I guess the problem of the steering adjuster touching the servo horn can be solved a little bit with placing a 1mm or 1.5mm spacer between the steering part K6 and the BA16 ball connector (they are mentioned in the manual at page 6, building stage 7).
I haven't tried that myself yet but will be doing that, just to try if it gives more equal steering travel to both sides of the car.
But i guess you have to adjust the steering adjuster again, cause the angle of the steering adjuster will be a little bit different.
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:01 AM   #726
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I guess the problem of the steering adjuster touching the servo horn can be solved a little bit with placing a 1mm or 1.5mm spacer between the steering part K6 and the BA16 ball connector (they are mentioned in the manual at page 6, building stage 7).
I haven't tried that myself yet but will be doing that, just to try if it gives more equal steering travel to both sides of the car.
But i guess you have to adjust the steering adjuster again, cause the angle of the steering adjuster will be a little bit different.
i guess you're right there. thats one of my options too... but will it hit the bottom of K11 (damper stay)?

another option is add more J3/J4 between K4/K3 and the servo. this in turn will make the servo a bit further from the body and after, i will rotate the ball connector towards the body so that it will not hit the servo horn while i turn to the left.

has anyone t ried this?
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:08 AM   #727
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Anybody got the link to the bodies made for this?
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:25 AM   #728
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i guess you're right there. thats one of my options too... but will it hit the bottom of K11 (damper stay)?
I don't think it will hit the bottom of K11, but when you do this i also think you have to use some 5mm shimplates on top of the steering parts K6 and K5 to suit properly without any movement friction.
This will prevent the parts from moving upwards when steering.

I guess this will be better when they release the alu steering
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:45 PM   #729
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Nimo,

We ran into a similar problem with the TB02. We noticed that if you put the diff screw into the thrust bearing from the side with the champhered edge, that the diff would stay where it was left. If you put the screw in on the very squared edge, the diff would loosen up. I wonder if some of the problem might be similar

Taake a close look at the brass piece on the inside of the thrust bearing, I'm sure you'll see what I'm talking about.



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Just back from a few days away some not had time to check the damage, but .....

Racing the car Sunday, handling was great, ran it with the HPI Firebolt 15T (sealed motor) in the 17.5 class, similar speed but out drove them in corners.
Quallie Round 1 I set a time a lap faster than the 17.5's.
Quallie round 2 I was on a faster pace, but got t-bone in to a barrier, after that I lost all drive.
done up diff that appeared to have come lose, went for round 3 but lost drive after 5 laps.
Again done diff up and went for round 4, but diff went after 1 completed lap.

Not had time to look at the damage yet, but with no working diff the car is ready for the trash bin.
Typical Tamiya selling kits with untried parts
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:51 PM   #730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jebolution View Post
yes, as per manual.

oh and when i turn right, the front right knuckles is hitting the shocks pushrod too... and if i turn left, has a big clearance. but that's not an issue

i removed the steering rods to check the length and both are the same, 15mm in length.
I had this same issue.

I took everything apart and noticed that I had one part in upside down / backwards. When I measured it it was only a 1mm difference from the way the part was supposed to be installed, and therefore it was hitting the inner part of the upper brace.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:47 PM   #731
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer View Post
I had this same issue.

I took everything apart and noticed that I had one part in upside down / backwards. When I measured it it was only a 1mm difference from the way the part was supposed to be installed, and therefore it was hitting the inner part of the upper brace.
What part was that? I got the same problem with mine...
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Old 07-22-2010, 01:52 PM   #732
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Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer View Post
Nimo,

We ran into a similar problem with the TB02. We noticed that if you put the diff screw into the thrust bearing from the side with the champhered edge, that the diff would stay where it was left. If you put the screw in on the very squared edge, the diff would loosen up. I wonder if some of the problem might be similar

Taake a close look at the brass piece on the inside of the thrust bearing, I'm sure you'll see what I'm talking about.
Think the fault has been located ?
After the diff failing again after the slightest of knocks and then failing to work again after a rebuild, I got someone else to look at the diff components, THEY noticed the thrust unit has a crack in one of the washers, so I went old school and made up one from some small balls and 2 washers, now it appears much smoother than it ever was, and the car turns much better, also it doesn't appear to be diffing out any where near as much, in fact the car was lapping faster, so I am thinking the part was sold as faulty?
Wont get to do any more testing as the track is closed tomorrow due to holding a main BRCA National meeting there this weekend with some 140 drivers booked in.
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Old 07-22-2010, 02:31 PM   #733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo View Post
Think the fault has been located ?
After the diff failing again after the slightest of knocks and then failing to work again after a rebuild, I got someone else to look at the diff components, THEY noticed the thrust unit has a crack in one of the washers, so I went old school and made up one from some small balls and 2 washers, now it appears much smoother than it ever was, and the car turns much better, also it doesn't appear to be diffing out any where near as much, in fact the car was lapping faster, so I am thinking the part was sold as faulty?
Wont get to do any more testing as the track is closed tomorrow due to holding a main BRCA National meeting there this weekend with some 140 drivers booked in.
Interesting as the new TRF201 has almost the identical diff in it and it uses the old fashioned balls and plates. The quality of the diffs from Tamiya of late have been pretty poor
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Old 07-22-2010, 03:52 PM   #734
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a better question is.........

why does the diff have a notch..and the rings dont? tamiya USED to produce notched diff rings. then at one point they went to bigger diff rings and the notch disappeared.
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Old 07-22-2010, 06:29 PM   #735
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a better question is.........

why does the diff have a notch..and the rings dont? tamiya USED to produce notched diff rings. then at one point they went to bigger diff rings and the notch disappeared.

The idea is for the rings to slip on the outdrives, rather than slipping on the balls, generating a flat spot, making the diff crunchy sooner.

If you want notched rings, get the 3Racing diff rings for the 416, they have the D ring.

Cannon is correct, in the past Tammy rings barely needed sanding, nowadays they are like rusted old plates of pitted steel.
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