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Old 07-17-2010, 02:30 PM   #691
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Got to run mine today, had to do almost no set up changes from kit settings, but I have noticed an excess of wheelspin/diff out when steering not straight.
Speed was good with a sealed can motor, 41mph.
I've had today my first outdoor run and i didn't notice any problem of wheelspin in corners, only when i acceleration from a startpoint.
But even then there wasn't an excess of wheelspin.
I've had some few changes on the setup and the car even drives better the the standard setup
I have been driven my car with a brushed GT Tuned motor (from tamiya) with a 90T spur and 42T pinion, tires are A-type with Medium insert at the front and Hard insert at the rear and that worked well.
I will be trying a 23T super stock TZ motor (from tamiya) tomorrow and hopefully they allow me to drive it in the GT2 B-finales
Just to test and see if there is a big difference between a FF03 and a TRF416.
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Old 07-18-2010, 08:03 AM   #692
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Ok a quick question for those that have already fitted the golf bodyshell, how well do the marks in the bodyshell line up with the body posts ?
They line up perfectly. You have to cut about half of the bumper away though.
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Old 07-18-2010, 11:41 AM   #693
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Well, i have tested my FF03 PRFO against some TRF416 or TB evo V's (they used a 12T brushless and unsensored) with a 23T brushed super stock motor from tamiya.
The car performs great and it isn't that much slower then the other cars who are 4WD.
I was able to keep up with some of them and i also was able to overtaking some of them too.
I'm very impressed with how the car performs but a GT Tuned brushed motor is the better choice for this kind of chassis.
I quess a 17.5T non boosted would be an equal choice to the GT Tuned brushed motor.
Cause when you use a more powerfull motor the wheels are spinning a lot and the tires wear extremely faster then on a 4WD touring car.
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:38 PM   #694
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
Well, i have tested my FF03 PRFO against some TRF416 or TB evo V's (they used a 12T brushless and unsensored) with a 23T brushed super stock motor from tamiya.
The car performs great and it isn't that much slower then the other cars who are 4WD.
I was able to keep up with some of them and i also was able to overtaking some of them too.
I'm very impressed with how the car performs but a GT Tuned brushed motor is the better choice for this kind of chassis.
I quess a 17.5T non boosted would be an equal choice to the GT Tuned brushed motor.
Cause when you use a more powerfull motor the wheels are spinning a lot and the tires wear extremely faster then on a 4WD touring car.
I bought Xerun 60A with 13.5T Team Powers motor to use in it...
Might go with a 17.5 also, tested the setup in my M05Pro and the frontwheels (foam tires) was gone in 10 - 20 laps...
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Old 07-18-2010, 06:44 PM   #695
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Default front Fan mod and pics

hiya folks,

Here's my FF03, with Suzuki SX4 bodyshell, fan mod. photo taken with sport-tuned motor and tamiya teu104bk esc. it usually runs a team wave RBS + LRP 13.5.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya FF03-img_0695.jpg   Tamiya FF03-img_0698.jpg   Tamiya FF03-img_0702.jpg   Tamiya FF03-img_0706.jpg  
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:16 PM   #696
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GT4 Rules for the TCS NA Finals:

1. Legal chassis platform: FF-03
2. Body Rule: For the TCS Finals the Porsche 911 GT-3 Cup body must be used. There are two available. Items 51336 and 51361. The kit Polycarbonate wing must be used.
3. Motor rules: The Silver Johnson 540J-two hole slot version, (item 53689), motor must be used for racing in this class.
4. Battery rules: Any TCS legal battery is legal for this class.
5. Tamiya 24mm tires and spoke wheels only. (Dish wheels are banned from GT-4)
6. Any pinion and spur gear ratio combo is permitted as long as the gear cover fits. The gear cover must be used. Helpful hint for the Tamiya Track. For a 5 minute race we have found the optimal final drive to be 3.85. The best spur/pinion combo for this is 80/54.
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Old 07-19-2010, 06:06 PM   #697
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[RANT] Why do spur gears cost more than pinion gears? Is it because they can strip and then be considered a consumable item? Thanks to the "gear cover" rule, my little $35 collection of ginormous pinions and tiny spurs will now grow with additional sets of quarters and silver dollars...hmm might actually be cheaper to machine coins with teeth. [/RANT]

In all seriousness, thanks for posting the actual spur/pinion combo that will work with the gear cover as that saves guess work/money. There is a video some pages back that shows an FF-03 geared at 88/59 for FDR of 3.88

Last edited by rtypec; 07-19-2010 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 07-19-2010, 09:03 PM   #698
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
GT4 Rules for the TCS NA Finals:

1. Legal chassis platform: FF-03
2. Body Rule: For the TCS Finals the Porsche 911 GT-3 Cup body must be used. There are two available. Items 51336 and 51361. The kit Polycarbonate wing must be used.
3. Motor rules: The Silver Johnson 540J-two hole slot version, (item 53689), motor must be used for racing in this class.
4. Battery rules: Any TCS legal battery is legal for this class.
5. Tamiya 24mm tires and spoke wheels only. (Dish wheels are banned from GT-4)
6. Any pinion and spur gear ratio combo is permitted as long as the gear cover fits. The gear cover must be used. Helpful hint for the Tamiya Track. For a 5 minute race we have found the optimal final drive to be 3.85. The best spur/pinion combo for this is 80/54.
Just to clarify, that "Helpful Hint" was actually published in the rules and wasn't my addition. Extra Kudos to the organizers for making such information available and public!
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:55 PM   #699
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Originally Posted by reenmachine View Post
GT4 Rules for the TCS NA Finals:

1. Legal chassis platform: FF-03
2. Body Rule: For the TCS Finals the Porsche 911 GT-3 Cup body must be used. There are two available. Items 51336 and 51361. The kit Polycarbonate wing must be used.
3. Motor rules: The Silver Johnson 540J-two hole slot version, (item 53689), motor must be used for racing in this class.
4. Battery rules: Any TCS legal battery is legal for this class.
5. Tamiya 24mm tires and spoke wheels only. (Dish wheels are banned from GT-4)
6. Any pinion and spur gear ratio combo is permitted as long as the gear cover fits. The gear cover must be used. Helpful hint for the Tamiya Track. For a 5 minute race we have found the optimal final drive to be 3.85. The best spur/pinion combo for this is 80/54.
80/54 really pushes it to the limit of the motor mount. The slots of the motor mount gets all used up using this combo.
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:30 AM   #700
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Just back from a few days away some not had time to check the damage, but .....

Racing the car Sunday, handling was great, ran it with the HPI Firebolt 15T (sealed motor) in the 17.5 class, similar speed but out drove them in corners.
Quallie Round 1 I set a time a lap faster than the 17.5's.
Quallie round 2 I was on a faster pace, but got t-bone in to a barrier, after that I lost all drive.
done up diff that appeared to have come lose, went for round 3 but lost drive after 5 laps.
Again done diff up and went for round 4, but diff went after 1 completed lap.

Not had time to look at the damage yet, but with no working diff the car is ready for the trash bin.
Typical Tamiya selling kits with untried parts
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:57 AM   #701
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Porsche body on a FF car is like cursing in the church.

WTF! XD
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:01 AM   #702
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Porsche body on a FF car is like cursing in the church.

WTF! XD
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Old 07-20-2010, 12:34 PM   #703
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@Nimo,

I have tested my car with a 23T superstock brushed motor and i don't have any problem with my diff.
I did install de alu diff and after all the runs i have done so far the diff is still very smooth.
I first did sand the diff plates with first P600, second P1000 and to finish it off with P1200.
The last year i have been doing this with all my diff plates and every diff is very smooth and it also improves my race results
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Old 07-20-2010, 12:47 PM   #704
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
@Nimo,

I have tested my car with a 23T superstock brushed motor and i don't have any problem with my diff.
I did install de alu diff and after all the runs i have done so far the diff is still very smooth.
I first did sand the diff plates with first P600, second P1000 and to finish it off with P1200.
The last year i have been doing this with all my diff plates and every diff is very smooth and it also improves my race results
I was t-bone in to a barrier, and I think the impact broke something.
It isn't a slipping problem, it is a problem with it undoing itself, so I think some plastic part may be broken? if so then many of these kits are going to get a bad name cos many are going to get bashed in crashes.
Mine only ever had one knock, and that was someone t-boning me into a barrier with a fair amount of force, so it was like a hit from both sides at once, up until this point the car has only had one roll and no kerb bashes.
Will try to look at it tomorrow
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Old 07-20-2010, 05:50 PM   #705
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Originally Posted by NiMo View Post
I was t-bone in to a barrier, and I think the impact broke something.
It isn't a slipping problem, it is a problem with it undoing itself, so I think some plastic part may be broken? if so then many of these kits are going to get a bad name cos many are going to get bashed in crashes.
Mine only ever had one knock, and that was someone t-boning me into a barrier with a fair amount of force, so it was like a hit from both sides at once, up until this point the car has only had one roll and no kerb bashes.
Will try to look at it tomorrow
Check your trust bearing. A crushed trust bearing will cause the diff to undo itself. The M05 has the same problem.
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