This (and maybe) later posts will be about my FF03-conversion. After having received a lot of likes and positive reactions on my work (thank you very much!) I want to show details of what was needed to build this car and which extra parts I added. This way anyone interested knows what it takes if he likes to do this conversion himself.
First check the additonal parts needed:
1x Xray 306200-K - T4 2015 Alu Servo Mount - BLACK (2)
1x Xray servo saver #372503
1x Exotek 1495 F1 servo horn plate
2x Exotek 1397 F1R2 Servo mounts (used as rear bulkheads)
1x Tamiya 9805974 TB-02R posts 10.5mm
1x Tamiya 51457 TA-06 N-parts (rocker arm)
These parts plus my chassis parts will be enough to make a full conversion. Plus a lot of M3 shims
I (for the look) added a lot of blue parts (from the Pro version), the gear diff plus housing, DJCs and aluminium wheel hexes. And because I had so much spares from my T4`15, I used hard arms, C-hubs and hubs.
Lets take a closer look at the rear:
I went for lay down shocks, because I am just a big fan of it. Also it works pretty smooth with ball bearings and decent shimming in the rocker arms. The rocker arms and shock ends are attached to the top deck with counter sunk screws to have a low topdeck and to give the battery the opportunity to slide in sideways. As mentioned above the topdeck in the rear is attached to the chassis by Exotek F1 servo mounts. This is a low price, lightweight and for me practical solution as I had them laying around from my F1R2. So the topdeck is a multifunctional part including rocker-, shockposition and defining the camber links. I use a 1/12 sized 2s shorty lipo so my topdeck is just 19mm above the chassis plate. This would create arkward angles for the rear camber links. By using Tamiya 9805974 TB-02R posts I raised the ballstud position and strengthened the construction with a small carbon bridge connecting the ballstuds. Taking advantage of what is given harware wise, I used the upper open thread of the rocker nuts to attach the rear body posts (pan car style). Optional: The upside thread of the rear-rear-suspension block (1XD) is used for the active rear suspension style toe link ballstud. This way I could avoid buying Tamiya suspension blocks while having the advantage of a free toe adjustment. Depending on the rear arms used it is maybe necessary to drill holes for the rockerarm link and/or anti-roll-bar-mount.
These are all "secrets" in the rear. A lot of text, but mostly plug and play in the end.
Lets see what happens in front.
The layout of the lower chassis plate allows for two motor positions: The "traditional" motor position and the front middle motor position (as shown here). If you go for the "traditional" position the standard steering layout can be used. The front shocks will have a lay down position.
The front middle motor layout does not have enough space for that. The shocks are in an standing position and attached to the aluminum motor plate and the motor mount on the left side via small carbon parts. The front end of the topdeck has three holes to attach it to the M1-part (51422 M-parts from your FF03). This part has to be optimized to make space. In the end I used the outer two hole for attachment only. Also this part has to be shimmed out correctly for a straight attachment to the lower chassis as the bumper now doesn't fill the space in between (see FF03 manual).
Now a mod for the hardcore racer (optional): After first installing the gearbox on the prototype (flat) chassis I discovered that the motor hovered nearly 3mm above the chassis
Not sure why Tamiya constructed it this way, but I couldn't let this happen. The easiest way to reduce the height is to precisely cut away the lower tabs of the gearbox. And that is what I did. If you do it take your time and check that the cut is straight and/or file away the last half millimeter to make it perfect. You can do it without being a pro just take time and check several times. The carbon chassis already features a large enough cut out for the lower differential housing.
Everything else is plug and play (servo mounting with Xray alu servo mount --> picture shows a TC6.2 servo mount, suspension, body posts...). Just the bumper will need some material removal to not collide with the servo (low profile please
). You can shim the servo upward if you don't want to modify the bumperbase.
Ok, now there is one thing, which nearly killed this project for me. And I thought I could not come up with a solution. But looking at this problem now, it wasn`t a problem at all and even gave me a deeper understanding about sensored brushless motors. What am I blabbering about (
) is that with the front-middle-motor-configuration we turned the motor around 180°. So it turns in the wrong direction. For unsensored and brushed motors this is not a problem. Just switch plus and minus cables or A & C. But a sensored motor will not turn with just changing cable position or the esc will even tell you there is a problem and do nothing. There are three steps to make a sensored brushless motor of any make switch its rotating direction:
1. Switch cable position A & C on the motor side
2. Switch sensor cable pin position: pin #2 with pin #4 on the motor side. Don't be afraid here. Just count the wires from left to right. If you did it wrong nothing will happen. Then bring it back in the original order and just count from the other side and voilá it works! Just don't change the most outter pins: pin #1 with pin #6 that is plus and minus
Here is an overview:
Pin#1 - ground potential (minus)
Pin#2 - sensor phase C
Pin#3 - sensor phase B
Pin#4 - sensor phase A
Pin#5 - motor temperature sensing
Pin#6 - sensors feeding +5.0V
3. Now only the timing could create a problem (LRP for example has already 30° fixed timing build in). So only if the motor will not turn even if the esc says everything is ok, then take out the timing insert and turn it one step into the desired turning direction and push it back in (for LRP there are three slots for the inner insert, I guess this is for every motor the same). For motors with true 0° timing try to adjust how you normally do it, just in the other direction. Now the motor is ready to race. Without pinion you can check under full throttle how the timing changes the revs. Pretty cool
Just don't be afraid! You can not destroy anything here and it is completly reverseable. Motor and esc are not at risk here.
I tell you, I felt like Hackerman after this worked out on the second try (had to come up with most of it myself...)
I can offer the front-middle-motor carbon parts (topdeck, chassis, front shock stays and rear link brace) in high quality for 105€ plus shipping in a very limited number. If someone is interested please start a list here.
Please note that if the motorposition is changed to the original layout you would need a new topdeck; and I didn't work on the servo and electronics attachment in the traditional layout, yet!
If there are unclear chapters or you have questions of every kind. Feel free to ask!