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Old 03-18-2013, 08:21 AM   #2641
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Originally Posted by Simulacra53 View Post
Yesterday I finished the chassis of my FF03 Pro.

Apart from the many turnbuckles and servo it was a joy to build, but I've been having a tough time getting that servo right.

Using a Savox 1251.

Should be pretty ideal, but I can't seem to get the steering buckle right with the Pro servo saver. I've already took off some of the cup as described in the manual. Also took out the tray.

It now clears the servo, however if you push the wheels full right it locks - by hand, might not do so under power.

Any tips appreciated.

...stripped only one screw, the smallest screw to attach the servo tray to the chassis.
Didu mount the servo the right way? I made that mistake before.
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:43 AM   #2642
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Don't see how I could do it any other way.

The saver itself can only be constructed and mounted one way, leaves the ball joint that can be mounted on the inside or outside position.

I quadruple checked with the manual.

Finally took out the 1251 and replaced with a 1258, which solved most of the issue - still using the adapted cup.

Will be looking at alternatives, as I really want that 1251 to work. But it's low design works against it when using the stock pro servo saver. The saver is just to close to the top deck of the servo - 1.5-2mm would make a world of difference here.

Probably replace that servo saver with a regular servo arm.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:33 PM   #2643
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Originally Posted by Simulacra53 View Post
Don't see how I could do it any other way.

The saver itself can only be constructed and mounted one way, leaves the ball joint that can be mounted on the inside or outside position.

I quadruple checked with the manual.

Finally took out the 1251 and replaced with a 1258, which solved most of the issue - still using the adapted cup.

Will be looking at alternatives, as I really want that 1251 to work. But it's low design works against it when using the stock pro servo saver. The saver is just to close to the top deck of the servo - 1.5-2mm would make a world of difference here.

Probably replace that servo saver with a regular servo arm.
Maybe I worded it wrong, is the servo saver the farthest away from the steering assembly? Maybe take a picture?
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:04 PM   #2644
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Thanks Nolo, I really appreciate the help.

Checked again its just the combination of the servo saver and shallow servo.

Installed the 1258 and it had a little more room.

I've ordered a regular servo arm that will put the steering turnbuckle on the other side battery instead of the servo side. That will give ample room to fully clear the servo so I can use the 1251 again.

No saver tho, but I'll have to accept that.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:36 PM   #2645
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I have a ball diff in the car and would like to change it with the gear diff. So besides the new gear diff case from Tamiya and the TA-06 gear diff what else do I need to get to make this change work.

Thank you.
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:11 AM   #2646
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I have a ball diff in the car and would like to change it with the gear diff. So besides the new gear diff case from Tamiya and the TA-06 gear diff what else do I need to get to make this change work.

Thank you.
that is all you need!

You may want to look at getting the aluminium cross joint and the steel gears however if you build the diff with a 0.3mm shim either side of the casing (underneath the big bevel gear) then you should be fine.

The TA06 kit instructions showed it to use 2 (or more if required) 0.1mm shims which would bow and then cause the small cross pin in the outdrive to wear the bevel gear to a point where it would just spin and not have contact with the gear!

The FF03R instructions show a 0.3mm shim as do all the new TA06 gear diff spare parts kits that now come with the steel gears.

Your best bet would be to buy this new TA06 gear diff with the steel gears and ali cross joint so you can put it in and forget about it

54471 - Tamiya Steel Gear Differential Unit Rear TA06 TA06 PRO FF-03R XV-01
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:56 PM   #2647
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Originally Posted by mr lee View Post
that is all you need!

You may want to look at getting the aluminium cross joint and the steel gears however if you build the diff with a 0.3mm shim either side of the casing (underneath the big bevel gear) then you should be fine.

The TA06 kit instructions showed it to use 2 (or more if required) 0.1mm shims which would bow and then cause the small cross pin in the outdrive to wear the bevel gear to a point where it would just spin and not have contact with the gear!

The FF03R instructions show a 0.3mm shim as do all the new TA06 gear diff spare parts kits that now come with the steel gears.

Your best bet would be to buy this new TA06 gear diff with the steel gears and ali cross joint so you can put it in and forget about it

54471 - Tamiya Steel Gear Differential Unit Rear TA06 TA06 PRO FF-03R XV-01
Thanks for the info I'll give that a try.
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Old 05-19-2013, 05:18 PM   #2648
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Just raced my FF03 in the TCS down here in Alabama and have a few questions. I ran it in the GT3 class with a 21.5 brushless and it seems like a hog to build up speed. The track is a mid traction track outdoor that was sprayed, but faded away as the day went. I ran 90-56 to give a fdr of 4.179 with B's in fr and A's in the rear. On the straights it seemed fast until it was time to turn and it just seems to take alot of time to build the momentum back up. So with all of that said, anybody got any idea or what I should have done different?

Fuzz
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:23 AM   #2649
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sounds like your either running a ball diff or a gear diff with the oil too light...
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:07 AM   #2650
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That had never crossed my mind at all...


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sounds like your either running a ball diff or a gear diff with the oil too light...
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:44 AM   #2651
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sounds like your either running a ball diff or a gear diff with the oil too light...
Totally agree. I wasn't getting good drive out of corners last weekend. Opened up the diff and found that most of the oil in there had leaked out. I just filled the diff with 200,000 silicone oil and ran the car today and it really made a world of difference! It rockets out of turns compared to when it had 50,000 in the diff. Just ordered a bottle of 500,000 from Mumeisha. Will see how that goes lol
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:16 AM   #2652
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Do you guys prefer using heavy weight oil in the gear diff or putty? Im running putty right now but im shredding the diff outdrives. Anyone know if the TRF417 outdrives will fit the ff03 gear diff?
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:50 AM   #2653
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417 outdrives will work, but only the short one. You need to get 2 packets and chuck away the longer ones.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:55 AM   #2654
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Originally Posted by nolo148 View Post
Do you guys prefer using heavy weight oil in the gear diff or putty? Im running putty right now but im shredding the diff outdrives. Anyone know if the TRF417 outdrives will fit the ff03 gear diff?
maybe shifting to tamiya DCJ shafts will help if you prefer to use putty.

back here, we prefer to use heavy oil (1M, 500K, 300K, or 100K)
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:56 AM   #2655
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Do you guys prefer using heavy weight oil in the gear diff or putty? Im running putty right now but im shredding the diff outdrives. Anyone know if the TRF417 outdrives will fit the ff03 gear diff?
I solved that problem. Get a dremel and grind off material in the slots in the out drive. That way you'll be able to fit shaft protectors on the drive shafts and then never have to worry about shredding them again.

It's takes a while, but works just fine
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