R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree21Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-17-2013, 10:23 AM   #2611
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 18
Default

Update: I removed the rear dampers and unscrewed V5 to expose about half the threads on the piston rod. I increased the piston length by 3.4mm and adjusted the 3x10mm screw on the suspension arm until the ride height was even all around with the battery installed. Should the car be fully even or slightly raked towards the front?

Here is an updated pic:
MAXecutive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 06:00 AM   #2612
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 19
Default

You need to measure ride height with the tires fitted. Just build according to instructions, fit tires, electronics etc and then check ride height.
HannK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2013, 05:04 PM   #2613
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 18
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HannK View Post
You need to measure ride height with the tires fitted. Just build according to instructions, fit tires, electronics etc and then check ride height.
Ok thanks. I assume the car should be fully leveled with as equal distribution as possible
MAXecutive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2013, 07:20 AM   #2614
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 19
Default

Hi guys.
Anybody tried the upgrade set yet?
Whats your findings compared to the std chassis?

I purchased one recently and found that it requires a totally different setup.
Any comments?
HannK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 05:34 AM   #2615
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 119
Default

I have the upgrade set on My ff03r. Im running a totally different setup with this chassie, softer front dampers (yellow springs, 350cst) and harder rear (blue spring, 450cst). This chassie have a lot more steering than the stock car have.

6mm droop front
5mm droop rear
1 degree camber front
3 degree camber rear
5mm ride height front
5.5mm ride height rear
Middle position on rear damper on carbon tower
Hard swaybar rear
Medium swaybar front
Running a PF speed6 with really low cut rear wing
Ride ETS 32 tires

Running Blinky 17.5
__________________
<Awesomatix A700 EvoII><Highest><Sanwa><Muchmore><Fantom>
<Awesomatix A800a><Hitec><Sanwa><Muchmore><Fantom>
<VBC LightningF><Hitec><Sanwa><Muchmore><Skyrc>
<=Team Autopartner=>
Gillblade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 05:39 AM   #2616
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 19
Default

Thanks
My setup is pretty much the same, except I run the Tam white spring in the rear.
Running Tamiya 12T brushless and Tamiya Type B3 tires in our local TCS series.

Did you see any improvements in your laptimes?
HannK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-21-2013, 05:42 AM   #2617
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 19
Default

I am a bit confused regarding the droop measurements. Is the settings quoted as measured with droop guages or is it the physical "up-travel" from rest?
HannK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2013, 10:44 PM   #2618
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 18
Default

Hey guys. Another newb question.

I bought a Novak 17.5T Ballistic motor with the Edge 2S ESC. I can't figure out how to mount this motor due to the solder tabs. Do I have to bend those tabs the other way or re-solder the wires to come out towards the other direction? It seems like I can't get the motor to rotate to line up with the mounting holes.

Does anyone have picture they can post to help me out.

Thanks!
MAXecutive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2013, 10:44 PM   #2619
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 18
Default

edit: double post
MAXecutive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 12:15 AM   #2620
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tustin,CA,USA
Posts: 408
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAXecutive View Post
Hey guys. Another newb question.

I bought a Novak 17.5T Ballistic motor with the Edge 2S ESC. I can't figure out how to mount this motor due to the solder tabs. Do I have to bend those tabs the other way or re-solder the wires to come out towards the other direction? It seems like I can't get the motor to rotate to line up with the mounting holes.

Does anyone have picture they can post to help me out.

Thanks!
It was a TOTAL nightmare... I did same motor in my FF03R upgraded...

http://tamiyatorg.blogspot.com/2012/...-upgraded.html

I used emery cloth and sanded the hell out of it.. even cut/filed away some metal from the motor tab.
torg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 08:32 AM   #2621
Tech Adept
 
Eddie M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 205
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Get a SpeedPassion V3 or the MMM 17.5 motor. It will make your life a lot easier
Eddie M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 11:17 PM   #2622
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 119
Default

I used this when i ran the D3.5 in my FF03r...
http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-ff...h=595_744_1471

Now i use the Thunderpower 17.5 and the carbon front brace, with that motor the tabs end up on the inside. Very easy to solder the tabs and to route the wires.
__________________
<Awesomatix A700 EvoII><Highest><Sanwa><Muchmore><Fantom>
<Awesomatix A800a><Hitec><Sanwa><Muchmore><Fantom>
<VBC LightningF><Hitec><Sanwa><Muchmore><Skyrc>
<=Team Autopartner=>
Gillblade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 03:16 AM   #2623
Tech Master
 
heretic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: europe
Posts: 1,065
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAXecutive View Post
Update: I removed the rear dampers and unscrewed V5 to expose about half the threads on the piston rod. I increased the piston length by 3.4mm and adjusted the 3x10mm screw on the suspension arm until the ride height was even all around with the battery installed. Should the car be fully even or slightly raked towards the front?

You should never EVER set your ride height with the headless screws in the arms. They are here to set droop (uptravel). Install absolutely everything on the car with battery, electronics, tires- except the body. Unscrew the said setscrews totally (until they don't protrude from the bottom of the arm anymore.)

Now screw the spring preload adjustment collar all the way up to the top of the shock. Find a way of marking this collar to be able to count the number of turns. It has a notch for this purpose but a sharpie dot will do the trick.

Now unscrew them counting the turns, ensuring you have the same number of turns ( same preload on the springs ) left and right. You want a ride height of 5mm all around, maybe a tiny bit more on the back, like 5,5mm.

Now droop can be adjusted. Refer to set up sheets or to a local guru to teach you that, it's really subtle.
__________________
I love wedge bodies. I love dish wheels.
heretic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 10:50 AM   #2624
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 18
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by torg View Post
It was a TOTAL nightmare... I did same motor in my FF03R upgraded...

http://tamiyatorg.blogspot.com/2012/...-upgraded.html

I used emery cloth and sanded the hell out of it.. even cut/filed away some metal from the motor tab.
Wow, even the carbon mount requires a lot of sanding. It seems that it would be more difficult using the stock ff03r carbon plastic. I was able to rotate the motor to the next set of mounting holes. With no modifications, the solder tabs come close to the 1XD suspension mounts. The wire insulation is touching for the orange and yellow phase. I may need to re-solder the blue phase to take some stress off the wire. I'm using the stock 26T pinion and 68T spur gears. I assume this will only work for now if I stick to this gearing. (By the way, how does the car feel with that motor and gearing setup?)



Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie M View Post
Get a SpeedPassion V3 or the MMM 17.5 motor. It will make your life a lot easier
Why can't they all come like that???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gillblade View Post
I used this when i ran the D3.5 in my FF03r...
http://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-ff...h=595_744_1471

Now i use the Thunderpower 17.5 and the carbon front brace, with that motor the tabs end up on the inside. Very easy to solder the tabs and to route the wires.
That spacer is nice. I was thinking of making a homemade one but I was afraid of not getting proper heat transfer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by heretic View Post
You should never EVER set your ride height with the headless screws in the arms. They are here to set droop (uptravel). Install absolutely everything on the car with battery, electronics, tires- except the body. Unscrew the said setscrews totally (until they don't protrude from the bottom of the arm anymore.)

Now screw the spring preload adjustment collar all the way up to the top of the shock. Find a way of marking this collar to be able to count the number of turns. It has a notch for this purpose but a sharpie dot will do the trick.

Now unscrew them counting the turns, ensuring you have the same number of turns ( same preload on the springs ) left and right. You want a ride height of 5mm all around, maybe a tiny bit more on the back, like 5,5mm.

Now droop can be adjusted. Refer to set up sheets or to a local guru to teach you that, it's really subtle.
I thought the preload on the spring was only to adjust the damper setting. I'm not following how increasing the preload will add ground clearance. I was changing the total piston length in order to increase the shock overall length. By doing this, I had to screw the collar down on the shock body further before I felt any spring preload. Increasing the preload made the spring "stiffer" and didn't change ride height. I felt the car was a little to high so I slightly adjusted the 3mm screw to reduce the rebound which in turn reduced ride height based on my shock setup.

I hope this didn't cause anymore confusion. I'll have to review this again once I completely finish the car.
MAXecutive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2013, 10:37 AM   #2625
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tustin,CA,USA
Posts: 408
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAXecutive View Post
Wow, even the carbon mount requires a lot of sanding. It seems that it would be more difficult using the stock ff03r carbon plastic. I was able to rotate the motor to the next set of mounting holes. With no modifications, the solder tabs come close to the 1XD suspension mounts. The wire insulation is touching for the orange and yellow phase. I may need to re-solder the blue phase to take some stress off the wire. I'm using the stock 26T pinion and 68T spur gears. I assume this will only work for now if I stick to this gearing. (By the way, how does the car feel with that motor and gearing setup?)
With that gearing and motor it was SLOW... Advice around the Tamiya Track was switch to 64p gearing. 88T Spur / 53 Pinion * 2.6 (FF03 internal drive ratio) = ~4.32 FDR

If you do that, you *may* need to get a "standard" 1/16th of an inch hex driver (or 31/97ths of a slice of bread or something similarly nonsensical) for the grub screw. I got some Yeah racing ones and they were metric.

The spacer is a nice idea, but it would affect the balance and center of gravity. Not sure by how much though so it may not matter.

Also you may want to add long screw and nut to your rightmost (unused) hole on the motor stay to help hold the wires up. It looked like yours were resting on top of your camber link, but I see now that they're not

Here's mine, notice the rightmost flathead screw (it's something I added, not part of the instructions). I can take another shot of it for you want to see a different angle.


I had a similar problem on my XV01-Pro, but I cut off the bent portion of the tabs and made them straight... so L -> I then I solder on that part instead.

Last edited by torg; 02-25-2013 at 10:55 AM.
torg is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tamiya Championship Series Neil Rabara Racing Forum 20952 Yesterday 10:43 AM
M03/M05's - The Aussie Mini Racing thread tony gray Australian Racing 5780 03-23-2017 07:38 PM
FWD TOURING CAR FORUM - Tamiya FF01, FF02, Yokomo YRF-2, Kyosho Mantis FF Mike Schumacher Electric On-Road 723 02-09-2017 08:16 AM
New Gen Front Wheel Drive Touring Cars (TAMIYA FF-03 PRO, T.O.P. Sabre FD) Rod M Australian Racing 34 06-11-2012 11:28 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:25 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net