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Old 07-20-2011, 02:51 AM   #2221
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Originally Posted by junn View Post
Well

TA06 gear diff does not fit in the FF03

It meshes with the next gear but the whole diff is too wide and their is an 8mm gap between the covers

Just thought i would let yall know
Maybe it wil fit in the Spec R gear case as it is wider
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:22 AM   #2222
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Default TA06 Gear diff

...........and i thought it would fit in the Spec R diff housing but its about 1mm wider than the spec R diff. the body of the diff is the same and it would fit but tamiya have moulded a small fillet around where the bearing sits meaning that the bearings arent sitting hard up against the diff body like they do on the Spec R diff so the diff covers dont quite meet properly, they will screw together but i dont think the bearings will like it for long
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:36 AM   #2223
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That's an interesting way of looking at it.
I have lots of off power steering even when the car is cold. The rear end already can rotate nicely. I initially suspected the tire temp differences were due to the car being front driven and having more weight up front.

Are you suggesting to perhaps soften the front, or increase rear stiffness? (it lifts inside rear wheel if pushed hard already!)
What motor are you running.

With a 21.5/SC we don't get much heat in our tires ?
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:10 AM   #2224
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What motor are you running.

With a 21.5/SC we don't get much heat in our tires ?
Mabuchi silvercan

I was running sorex 28s though in really warm weather--so that could be the cause. Anyhow, issue has been resolved.
Increased rear camber and the rear end is dialed now. This car is so sensitive to camber changes...it's crazy!

Last edited by boro92; 07-20-2011 at 10:21 AM.
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Old 07-20-2011, 11:10 AM   #2225
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Mabuchi silvercan

I was running sorex 28s though in really warm weather--so that could be the cause. Anyhow, issue has been resolved.
Increased rear camber and the rear end is dialed now. This car is so sensitive to camber changes...it's crazy!
Cool, and yes it is.
To me that's a sign of a balanced chassis, that little tweaks make a difference.
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:25 PM   #2226
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Cool, and yes it is.
To me that's a sign of a balanced chassis, that little tweaks make a difference.
Agreed. My old HPI Pro 4 was not nearly as sensitive to camber changes.
This car is very interesting. Typically I'm looking for more steering...this car, you're looking for more rear grip! It's a refreshing change
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Old 07-21-2011, 07:20 AM   #2227
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This is probably obvious to most but:

Do not bother to run the stock spur/pinion.
The Tamiya gears are horrible. Very loud and inefficient.
I just changed to Kimborough spur and Robertson 48p pinion and it totally transformed the car. Throttle is much smoother, car is actually quiet and the meshing is significantly better. With the same gearing, I'm getting better run times--that's how big the difference is.

The change was significant enough to warrant a change in setup due to the increased speed (which came straight from the increased efficiency--same gear ratio!)
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:09 AM   #2228
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Run the Tamiya 04 module gears or 64P and you will notice it is even quieter than the 48P!

I run the Tamiya 04 module and it sounds like it is gliding on air compared to my other cars
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Old 07-21-2011, 08:57 AM   #2229
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Run the Tamiya 04 module gears or 64P and you will notice it is even quieter than the 48P!

I run the Tamiya 04 module and it sounds like it is gliding on air compared to my other cars
I agree! I purposely did not run 04 module though, as I am still running the plastic spur adapter, and that has some run out. To ease with meshing, I've stuck with 48p.

Another newbie thing I discovered:

I ran the car first with older hpi x patterns. I suspect the rubber has dried out, as grip was low. I altered the setup drastically to a very soft front (orange springs), and stiff rear (blue springs + blue sway), while increasing front camber to boot!

The car still pushed like mad, because it lacked the traction to load the suspension. No matter what I did, it didnt respond to the changes. I swapped on my Sorex 24s and the car was transformed...had to move everything back

Moral of the story - If your car is pushing, make sure the car is generating enough traction to load the suspension...or the car wont respond to suspension changes anyway!
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Old 07-24-2011, 03:02 AM   #2230
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Questions??

Hi all,

I just got a good deal on a Ezrun 9t (the 380 core type) and 35a-sl esc. I'm running it now after comming from 12x2 brushed (LRP GT4, not worth the money at all!). FDR is around 6.8 (not really long straights on my local track).

I melted my diff, even with it cranked down tight and punch set to 2nd lowest on the esc.
Should I go for the Tamiya aluminium outdrives, or the 3racing ones? I'm running normal dogbones and since the Tamiya package comes with the plastic protecors i figured this would be the better deal.


Benjamin

Last edited by BenjaminX2; 07-24-2011 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 07-25-2011, 09:29 PM   #2231
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Hi all,

I just got a good deal on a Ezrun 9t (the 380 core type) and 35a-sl esc. I'm running it now after comming from 12x2 brushed (LRP GT4, not worth the money at all!). FDR is around 6.8 (not really long straights on my local track).

I melted my diff, even with it cranked down tight and punch set to 2nd lowest on the esc.
Should I go for the Tamiya aluminium outdrives, or the 3racing ones? I'm running normal dogbones and since the Tamiya package comes with the plastic protecors i figured this would be the better deal.


Benjamin
3racing stuff in my experience, has been of decent quality.
if you arent racing tcs, save yourself some money and go with the 3 racing option parts!
also, i saw that 3racing makes delrin ones also if that's your preference.
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:27 AM   #2232
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No rules, I drive for fun. We "race" a mixture of TT-01 / T3 / Corally's / 417 and me the ff03 .

Just go for it for 10 min. Nobody keeps track of positions, we all have fun so everybody won.


I ordered the 3racing parts, it even has a bigger bolt and D-shaped diff rings.


Thanks,
B.
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:37 AM   #2233
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Default Tamiya Carbon reinforced lower deck

Has anyone upgraded from the standard plastic deck to the carbon reinforced variant as yet?

Any noticable gains in handling?

Worth the money or just stick with the standard plastic deck?
I know it will take some flex away but in some case this could be good.......
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:29 AM   #2234
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Originally Posted by mr lee View Post
Has anyone upgraded from the standard plastic deck to the carbon reinforced variant as yet?

Any noticable gains in handling?

Worth the money or just stick with the standard plastic deck?
I know it will take some flex away but in some case this could be good.......
My thoughts on this is that it's more of a carpet setup to utilize that chassis.
Because the car is so light in the back end, it really benefits from any flex it gains from the chassis. Most of the suspension loading occurs in the front with this car, due to the weight distribution and design...having a stiffer chassis all around will likely reduce traction in outdoor conditions. (similar to how the f1 guys cut the upper deck when running on tarmac)
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Old 07-28-2011, 02:19 AM   #2235
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My thoughts on this is that it's more of a carpet setup to utilize that chassis.
Because the car is so light in the back end, it really benefits from any flex it gains from the chassis. Most of the suspension loading occurs in the front with this car, due to the weight distribution and design...having a stiffer chassis all around will likely reduce traction in outdoor conditions. (similar to how the f1 guys cut the upper deck when running on tarmac)
Ok cool...makes sense!

I would still however like to know if there is anyone that has actually tested this as theory and practice don't often go hand in hand
Never know, we may just be surprized
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