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Old 07-13-2011, 08:26 PM   #2206
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Random rant about street prices. I went to my lhs to pick up some "consumable" products. Two cans of paint, tire glue, and a can of motorspray...total cost with tax, $29 something none of which will contribute to making my car faster
that's because you didn't get them at SPEEDtech
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Old 07-13-2011, 10:04 PM   #2207
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is there a metal gear version of the spec-r gear diff for the ff03? Or even just the inside gears in metal? thx
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Old 07-14-2011, 08:35 AM   #2208
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Keep in mind, the person I was trying to help wasn't looking to spend much in upgrades at the moment.
Granted and hence the reason I suggested the standard kit with TRF's

RCmart has the standard Civic VTi @ $109, add the TRF's @ $49 and you have a body as well. The pro is $186 and you still need the body.

I did run the standard plastic spur mount for a while and never had any issues, suppose the key is to get the near perfect mesh. Ali part is not neccessary but does have less slop/movement etc.

Anyway all good, just trying to help like you
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Old 07-14-2011, 10:39 AM   #2209
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Originally Posted by rtypec View Post
Random rant about street prices. I went to my lhs to pick up some "consumable" products. Two cans of paint, tire glue, and a can of motorspray...total cost with tax, $29 something none of which will contribute to making my car faster
Body will save breakage of car parts
I have seen people running clear body, actually a lot of people bring their r/c car in at the hobby shop with a clear body, lol.
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Old 07-14-2011, 10:42 AM   #2210
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Originally Posted by mr lee View Post
Granted and hence the reason I suggested the standard kit with TRF's

RCmart has the standard Civic VTi @ $109, add the TRF's @ $49 and you have a body as well. The pro is $186 and you still need the body.

I did run the standard plastic spur mount for a while and never had any issues, suppose the key is to get the near perfect mesh. Ali part is not neccessary but does have less slop/movement etc.

Anyway all good, just trying to help like you
Wow! $109 is below dealer cost for FF03 standard kit, that's a great deal. How fast did you get yours via shipping?
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Old 07-14-2011, 06:05 PM   #2211
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Just bought an FF03Pro (from SpeedTech....) but the rear axles have more slop than I could imagine! I also purchased a couple of upgrades with it, to include a Tamiya axle shim and spacer sets (aluminum hexs, oiutdrives and rein gear stuff).

I have read this entire thread and digested all I could, but I have apparently missed a few things:

First: what are people doing with the rear? I think I'll need ~2mm per axle to clean up the slop. Or:

Second: What replacement rear axles are recommended? 417 axles - is that what I saw recommended?

Thanks in advance,
-Drew
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Old 07-14-2011, 07:39 PM   #2212
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Drew,

Did you remember to put the spacer part # J16 in step 19 on the rear shaft?

44mm or 46mm universals will work. but you need to purchase all the parts seperatly as they do not come in a kit.
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Old 07-15-2011, 03:20 AM   #2213
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Wow! $109 is below dealer cost for FF03 standard kit, that's a great deal. How fast did you get yours via shipping?
I didn't, just noticed it and thought I would mention it!
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Old 07-15-2011, 03:31 AM   #2214
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Originally Posted by cation3 View Post
Just bought an FF03Pro (from SpeedTech....) but the rear axles have more slop than I could imagine! I also purchased a couple of upgrades with it, to include a Tamiya axle shim and spacer sets (aluminum hexs, oiutdrives and rein gear stuff).

I have read this entire thread and digested all I could, but I have apparently missed a few things:

First: what are people doing with the rear? I think I'll need ~2mm per axle to clean up the slop. Or:

Second: What replacement rear axles are recommended? 417 axles - is that what I saw recommended?

Thanks in advance,
-Drew
Yes you need to remember to install the part as mentioned above to reduce the inward and outward play!

However there is still quite a bit of play and I had to use a good few 5mm shims to reduce it further....I also have 5mm clamp wheel hubs. Only axle you can get as a hop up (if you want to be TC legal) is the M Chassis reinforced free wheel axle set, basically a machined part and thus harder than the kit included stamped out axle. You are still going to have the same play though as it is the same dimensions.
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Old 07-15-2011, 02:52 PM   #2215
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A newbie question, what would happen if I lock the front ball diff? What's the downside?

TIA,
Ron
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Old 07-17-2011, 08:32 PM   #2216
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A newbie question, what would happen if I lock the front ball diff? What's the downside?

TIA,
Ron
you'd get better straight line and corner exit acceleration at the expense of greatly reduced turn in and wider turning radius for slow speed corners
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:10 PM   #2217
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Anyone noticing that handling changes drastically once the front tires heat up?
I have my car setup such that it handles optimally when tires are cold...but because the front and rears heat up at such significantly different rates, the rear end gets all squirelly after about 5 mins of driving.

I'm running blue front springs, red rears with a blue rear anti sway bar.
I guess it sounds like I have to try a thinner rear bar...

thoughts?

Roll centers and toe are left stock. Front is running approx 1.5 camber, rear is stock.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:14 PM   #2218
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Originally Posted by boro92 View Post
Anyone noticing that handling changes drastically once the front tires heat up?
I have my car setup such that it handles optimally when tires are cold...but because the front and rears heat up at such significantly different rates, the rear end gets all squirelly after about 5 mins of driving.

I'm running blue front springs, red rears with a blue rear anti sway bar.
I guess it sounds like I have to try a thinner rear bar...

thoughts?

Roll centers and toe are left stock. Front is running approx 1.5 camber, rear is stock.
It sounds as if you have a fair amount of understeer, which is causing the front tires to heat up excessively.
Maybe try a body/wing change, or something in the setup to free the rear up ?
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:29 PM   #2219
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It sounds as if you have a fair amount of understeer, which is causing the front tires to heat up excessively.
Maybe try a body/wing change, or something in the setup to free the rear up ?
That's an interesting way of looking at it.
I have lots of off power steering even when the car is cold. The rear end already can rotate nicely. I initially suspected the tire temp differences were due to the car being front driven and having more weight up front.

Are you suggesting to perhaps soften the front, or increase rear stiffness? (it lifts inside rear wheel if pushed hard already!)
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:49 AM   #2220
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Default TA06 Gear Diff

Well

TA06 gear diff does not fit in the FF03

It meshes with the next gear but the whole diff is too wide and their is an 8mm gap between the covers

Just thought i would let yall know
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