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Old 06-29-2011, 07:00 PM   #2176
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
after you build the diff, make sure the head of the screw is on the right side of the car, the nut will then be on the left side. suggest you go straight to getting the alum diff halves and the hop-up gears from the TRF201 (black idler and diff gear). everyone back here melted their stock diffs after just 1 pack even though the diff was built and mounted correctly.
VooDoo,

Clarification please...

Is step 3 of the manual incorrect? The head of the screw is away from the spur gear in this step. That puts the head on the left side. I have run the Associated RC10GT diff in all of my nitro oval cars. If the diff bolt is a traditional thread, as in the GT, then you are correct, and the manual is wrong.

I am taking this on its maiden voyage in two weeks, and I don't want to melt the stock stuff.

Anyone here is welcome to chime in.
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:34 PM   #2177
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Originally Posted by rdcobra View Post
VooDoo,

Clarification please...

Is step 3 of the manual incorrect? The head of the screw is away from the spur gear in this step. That puts the head on the left side. I have run the Associated RC10GT diff in all of my nitro oval cars. If the diff bolt is a traditional thread, as in the GT, then you are correct, and the manual is wrong.

I am taking this on its maiden voyage in two weeks, and I don't want to melt the stock stuff.

Anyone here is welcome to chime in.
Personally now run the Spec-R gear diff... but I ran the ball diff fine for loads of runs at TITC with the screw on the left. Think I only rebuilt it once the whole week. Was using the alloy diff halves mind, but that was all.

HiH
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:01 AM   #2178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdcobra View Post
VooDoo,

Clarification please...

Is step 3 of the manual incorrect? The head of the screw is away from the spur gear in this step. That puts the head on the left side. I have run the Associated RC10GT diff in all of my nitro oval cars. If the diff bolt is a traditional thread, as in the GT, then you are correct, and the manual is wrong.

I am taking this on its maiden voyage in two weeks, and I don't want to melt the stock stuff.

Anyone here is welcome to chime in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Personally now run the Spec-R gear diff... but I ran the ball diff fine for loads of runs at TITC with the screw on the left. Think I only rebuilt it once the whole week. Was using the alloy diff halves mind, but that was all.

HiH
Ed

just speaking from what we've experienced back here in the PI... although most of us switched to the alum diff halves already and just opted to run the head on the right side to be safe.

be warned though that the stock diff is crap... get the black TRF201 gears and the alum diff halves for your own peace of mind.

(local TAC race rules don't allow the SpecR gear diff)
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:14 AM   #2179
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After almost one year and often used i've changed the plastic inner gears, they were the original gears from the kid.
I never had any issues (so far) with those gears, so i changed them again with the white ones.
We run with a tamiya (brushed) GT Tuned motor at the belgian tamiya cup.
I guess it all depends on how the pilots drives his car, i'm not the kind of a agressive driver.
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:55 PM   #2180
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Default gearing

I've been looking at putting a silver can in my YR-F2. Someone reported that David June used a FDR of 3.75 on a silver can in a FF03. I know that kind of gearing works fine in a direct drive car because I've done it in my RWD, direct drive, IRS TC. Will I need to fan cool my silver can in my YR-F2 at a FDR of 3.75? Thanks, Don
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Old 07-02-2011, 02:53 PM   #2181
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Default gearing

bump
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Old 07-02-2011, 03:18 PM   #2182
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Originally Posted by DLS II View Post
I've been looking at putting a silver can in my YR-F2. Someone reported that David June used a FDR of 3.75 on a silver can in a FF03. I know that kind of gearing works fine in a direct drive car because I've done it in my RWD, direct drive, IRS TC. Will I need to fan cool my silver can in my YR-F2 at a FDR of 3.75? Thanks, Don
Pretty vague question. Quick answer. need? no. want? yes.

Long answer, 3.75 is for top end speed with no care to make the 15 dollar motor last. We have no idea where you run, how long you run, the temps, etc etc etc etc. Gear at 3.75 and temp your car. Do you own homework. My homework says @3.75 motor wont last more than a few runs.
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:42 PM   #2183
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OK-you're right- I really didn't want to smoke it. I just haven't done that much with silver cans in a car with a gearbox. Thanks, Don
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Old 07-03-2011, 10:48 AM   #2184
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does anyone have a good setup for asphalt with spec r diff?

the car has loads of understeering
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Old 07-04-2011, 01:59 PM   #2185
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does anyone have a good setup for asphalt with spec r diff?

the car has loads of understeering
Hi,
which type of oil are you using?

The seller of my gear diff reccomended me a 800 oil but I got a lot of understeer. So I tryed a Mercury marine grease with bad results and now I'm waiting for 50000 and 100000 diff oils.
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Old 07-04-2011, 02:06 PM   #2186
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I'm running a Sport Tuned in my FF03, I'm a basher not a racer but sometimes I use it on a small nitro track, I need to know the ideal pinion/spur gear ratio to use.
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:03 PM   #2187
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^4.5-5.5 fdr. start higher and go down.

Anyone care to share their setups?
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:03 PM   #2188
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Hi all.

I'm looking at getting a Tamiya FF03 (not the pro version) and running a 15t motor.

This will mainly be used for carpark racing (bashing).

Besides the obvious bearings, is there anything else I should be considering? ie. pinion, gearing, etc. (I already have Radio / ESC sorted).

I'm no good at working out gear ratios, so if you have any suggestions on gearing, please let me know what tooth pinion/spur to use

Keep in mind, I'm not looking at spending much in upgrades at the moment, just want a basic car that the 15t isn't going to destroy

Cheers guys - I look forward to your thoughts.

Dave.
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Old 07-06-2011, 07:55 PM   #2189
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^I believe it comes with bearings.
Get aluminum spur gear mount, metal diff nut, aluminum diff joints/outdrives, maybe the reinforced internal gears and maybe the trf shocks

Universals too, some say dog bones work ok though.

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebcategory.asp?id=893
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:53 PM   #2190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave5290 View Post
Hi all.

I'm looking at getting a Tamiya FF03 (not the pro version) and running a 15t motor.

This will mainly be used for carpark racing (bashing).

Besides the obvious bearings, is there anything else I should be considering? ie. pinion, gearing, etc. (I already have Radio / ESC sorted).

I'm no good at working out gear ratios, so if you have any suggestions on gearing, please let me know what tooth pinion/spur to use

Keep in mind, I'm not looking at spending much in upgrades at the moment, just want a basic car that the 15t isn't going to destroy

Cheers guys - I look forward to your thoughts.

Dave.
Hi Dave, my son & I both run one & his is almost stock (we both have the alloy spur gear upgrade), but he runs dogbones, etc. whereas I have virtually every hop-up you can imagine & he has now out-qualified me several times (I taught him well ).

The other thing that we did on both cars was bearings on the steering & front suspension rocker arms.

We run 27x1 stock motors & the standard gear setup is fine. You may take advantage of the fact that the FF03 can use other brand spur gears & therefore you can use 48dp/ 64dp pinions, if you already have them, saving additional cost. Ratios are difficult things to recommend as there are other factors to consider; track layout, style of driving, temerature, etc. Because you're running a hotter motor, you may need to use a smaller pinion, especially if you are doing a lot of stop/ starting.

I hope this helps.
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