220LikesTamiya FF03
04-25-2011, 05:00 AM
#2101
clittle,
Are your TRF shocks the TC version? If they are mini size TRF's then you would have trouble getting ride height. I use the regular TC TRF shocks with yellow springs on the rear and have fitted the graphite rear shock tower. I run the rear shocks either fully stood up, outer hole on shocktower or next hole in. I have 40wt oil rear and 60wt front with two hole pistons and use the blue spring on the front. I also have swaybars fitted front and rear. Rear I use the yellow swaybar and the front I am using the red swaybar.
Other than that my car is built as standard, however I replaced the hingepin retainers with replacement alloy parts but in the same configuration as the plastic parts.
We have also found using a Sorex 36 or equivalent on the front and either a Sorex 24 or 28 with a medium insert on the rear helps with rear end grip.
I also replaced the plastic rear braces with the graphite parts to make the rear a little more rigid. These are the Tamiya parts.
I also fitted the SpecR oil gear diff as I stripped the 3Racing ball diff. This seems to be working well and I will stick with it as we do not have any TCS events in Australia.
Good luck and have fun racing.
Calvin.
Are your TRF shocks the TC version? If they are mini size TRF's then you would have trouble getting ride height. I use the regular TC TRF shocks with yellow springs on the rear and have fitted the graphite rear shock tower. I run the rear shocks either fully stood up, outer hole on shocktower or next hole in. I have 40wt oil rear and 60wt front with two hole pistons and use the blue spring on the front. I also have swaybars fitted front and rear. Rear I use the yellow swaybar and the front I am using the red swaybar.
Other than that my car is built as standard, however I replaced the hingepin retainers with replacement alloy parts but in the same configuration as the plastic parts.
We have also found using a Sorex 36 or equivalent on the front and either a Sorex 24 or 28 with a medium insert on the rear helps with rear end grip.
I also replaced the plastic rear braces with the graphite parts to make the rear a little more rigid. These are the Tamiya parts.
I also fitted the SpecR oil gear diff as I stripped the 3Racing ball diff. This seems to be working well and I will stick with it as we do not have any TCS events in Australia.
Good luck and have fun racing.
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 04-25-2011 at 05:15 AM. Reason: revised text.
04-25-2011, 05:22 AM
#2102
Yes mate, I'm using the TRF Touring Car version shocks. I don't (yet) have the rear shock tower so I'm only using the kit version. Does the graphite version have more available positions?
I might switch over to the longer version of the bottom "holders" for the shock... and if need be, use mini springs if it's too long. The excess droop is will be handled by the droop screws rather than the shock bottoming out. All good.
It's interesting that you are using a harder sway-bar on the rear than the front. Guess I have a bit of playing to do.
I'm using the stock ball diff, going to try and keep it together as I want this one to stay all Tamiya, for real reason other than I thought that would be cool.
Cheers
Craig
04-25-2011, 09:43 AM
#2103
Tech Regular
what gearing should i start with running a trinity duo2 13.5t motor and no timing esc
running on large track
running on large track
04-25-2011, 03:54 PM
#2104
Criag,
Graphite shock tower has more adjustments, so the shock can be stood up. I found the car to work better this way.
The ball diff works very well and I have a 13.5 Hobbywing motor, zero timing with the just stock ESC. I find this to have good speed. I have a 65 tooth spur and 45 tooth pinion fitted. Both are 48 pitch. I do not use the cover over the gears as it will not fit.
I am using the car in LWB configuration with a Tom's XIV shell. My backup shell is a Honda Integra.
The car has very good steering and good acceleration and speed.
This car was harder to setup than my MO5 and requires a different driving style to driving my mini.
I also have my rear shocks setup in the same configuration as the MO5L where they are in front of the rear a-arm.
Good luck with your racing.
Calvin.
Graphite shock tower has more adjustments, so the shock can be stood up. I found the car to work better this way.
The ball diff works very well and I have a 13.5 Hobbywing motor, zero timing with the just stock ESC. I find this to have good speed. I have a 65 tooth spur and 45 tooth pinion fitted. Both are 48 pitch. I do not use the cover over the gears as it will not fit.
I am using the car in LWB configuration with a Tom's XIV shell. My backup shell is a Honda Integra.
The car has very good steering and good acceleration and speed.
This car was harder to setup than my MO5 and requires a different driving style to driving my mini.
I also have my rear shocks setup in the same configuration as the MO5L where they are in front of the rear a-arm.
Good luck with your racing.
Calvin.
04-25-2011, 04:48 PM
#2105
Tech Adept
CRZ FF03
I picked up the FF03 CR-Z on Saturday, along with a bunch of hop-up options. I actually own a CR-Z so I was really looking forward to this one.
Built it overnight and gave it it's first run on Sunday. (using and old lancer body)
I ran an FF01 about 13 years ago and I'd forgotten how much fun this style of car can be. I've been running touring cars and minis. I was suprised about the differences between this and my m05. The m05 was quite hard to set up to get good turn in. My FF03 seems to have an abundance of turn-in. Which certainly is exciting sometimes
I'm going to have to spend more time working on the setup, that is for sure.
With the rear, I'm running the TRF Dampers (I had a set just sitting around), but I just don't seem to have enough in the damper to get a good ride height. When set as per the manual, the shocks bottomed out well before anything else, and with that the ride height was around 3.5 - 4 mm. I'm kinda hoping to get 5. I moved the upper arm position to the top hole and that game be a small improvement, but still not quite what I was hoping for.
What could I do to cure this curse???? longer connectors at the bottom of the shock? I'm not running any limiters inside the shock either...
Also, what is everyones thoughts on hard-front/soft rear as opposed to soft front/hard rear?
Cheers
Built it overnight and gave it it's first run on Sunday. (using and old lancer body)
I ran an FF01 about 13 years ago and I'd forgotten how much fun this style of car can be. I've been running touring cars and minis. I was suprised about the differences between this and my m05. The m05 was quite hard to set up to get good turn in. My FF03 seems to have an abundance of turn-in. Which certainly is exciting sometimes
I'm going to have to spend more time working on the setup, that is for sure.
With the rear, I'm running the TRF Dampers (I had a set just sitting around), but I just don't seem to have enough in the damper to get a good ride height. When set as per the manual, the shocks bottomed out well before anything else, and with that the ride height was around 3.5 - 4 mm. I'm kinda hoping to get 5. I moved the upper arm position to the top hole and that game be a small improvement, but still not quite what I was hoping for.
What could I do to cure this curse???? longer connectors at the bottom of the shock? I'm not running any limiters inside the shock either...
Also, what is everyones thoughts on hard-front/soft rear as opposed to soft front/hard rear?
Cheers
04-25-2011, 06:13 PM
#2106
Hi,
The CR-Z uses the long wheelbase.
Can anyone please post a pic of the LWB with the rear shocks on the inside?
I've looked at the manual and still just a bit confused about what goes where.
Cheers
Craig
The CR-Z uses the long wheelbase.
Can anyone please post a pic of the LWB with the rear shocks on the inside?
I've looked at the manual and still just a bit confused about what goes where.
Cheers
Craig
Last edited by clittle; 04-25-2011 at 06:16 PM. Reason: adding question.
04-26-2011, 05:34 AM
#2107
Craig,
I am away for a month, so I can not show my setup until then. Perhaps someone else is running there car with that setup.
Calvin.
I am away for a month, so I can not show my setup until then. Perhaps someone else is running there car with that setup.
Calvin.
04-26-2011, 06:15 AM
#2108
05-01-2011, 11:59 AM
#2109
Tech Adept
If u are running with Tamiya Outdrives #54233.. Should i go for 44mm cvd´s or 46mm?
05-01-2011, 03:30 PM
#2110
The only "issue" I have is that I have to remove the C-hub in order the get the shaft out of the outdrives when I want to tighten my diff. I have a feeling that the 44mm will not have that problem.
05-02-2011, 08:57 AM
#2112
Tech Adept
anyone Know the size on the bearings in the steeringrack and rockerarms... in mm size plzz!!!
05-02-2011, 09:12 AM
#2113
05-02-2011, 11:49 AM
#2114
Tech Adept
ty for the fast response...
05-03-2011, 10:50 AM
#2115
Tech Regular
ff03 pro built and almost ready!
looking at the car its quite long in the front, and i have decided to run a race body on it (we have no tcs here so no need to run a expensive tamiya body)
what race bodies will fit and what will NOT fit on the car? (protoform, eastcoast etc..)
looking at the car its quite long in the front, and i have decided to run a race body on it (we have no tcs here so no need to run a expensive tamiya body)
what race bodies will fit and what will NOT fit on the car? (protoform, eastcoast etc..)