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Old 02-28-2011, 10:39 PM   #1981
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BTW ant the TITC you're not running Civic but an Integra
Yeah.. opps! Body of choice was between those two... most seemed to go integra, but the civic was a little better in the chicanes.
I never got the FF handling well once the bite came down, always ended up too tail happy, and with only FWD, didn't have the traction to make up for any little slide.
Really should have tried running the gear diff sooner, but as it was, only put it in for the final (and it did feel better). Couldn't make it count as I crashed and broke in the first lap... kinda summed up my whole event!

Have to say Jilles and Marc both got their FF's going well. Marc's was quite close to box stock, a little wider on the suspension blocks. Surikarn's car did look very good though..

Ed
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:30 AM   #1982
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Hey Ed,


do you have any pics of the Tamiya Factory Drivers´ FF´s ??

I´m very interessted in how they built and setup their chassis.

Thx in advance.
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:57 AM   #1983
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Ok so I purchased an FF03 Pro second hand and ran it as it was at the first TC event. Got serious binding on the right dogbone/axle/suspension arm on first run. Decided to swap diff nut around which helped free up some space for the right dogbone to move a little more freely.

Anyway I will be purchasing the universals and ali diff outdrives for it soon.

I have heard that the diff has to built a particular way and not as per the instructions as it will loosen itself up....how true is this and exactly what must be done? Have been a couple of pages back but didn't find anything!
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:19 AM   #1984
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Ok so I purchased an FF03 Pro second hand and ran it as it was at the first TC event. Got serious binding on the right dogbone/axle/suspension arm on first run. Decided to swap diff nut around which helped free up some space for the right dogbone to move a little more freely.

Anyway I will be purchasing the universals and ali diff outdrives for it soon.

I have heard that the diff has to built a particular way and not as per the instructions as it will loosen itself up....how true is this and exactly what must be done? Have been a couple of pages back but didn't find anything!

after you build the diff, make sure the head of the screw is on the right side of the car, the nut will then be on the left side. suggest you go straight to getting the alum diff halves and the hop-up gears from the TRF201 (black idler and diff gear). everyone back here melted their stock diffs after just 1 pack even though the diff was built and mounted correctly.
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:36 AM   #1985
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Thanks VooDooPH!

Will be getting the gears too

Have been told to get 44mm swing shafts but people here seem to favour the 46mm! Will either be fine with the ali outdrives?
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:04 AM   #1986
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Thanks VooDooPH!

Will be getting the gears too

Have been told to get 44mm swing shafts but people here seem to favour the 46mm! Will either be fine with the ali outdrives?
I'm running 44mm in mine... they fit fine. maybe the others are running 46mm because they're running wider suspension pin mounts?
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:35 AM   #1987
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I'm also running the 44mm CVD's with the aluminum diff outdrives.
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:42 AM   #1988
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personally, I would get the Spec-R gear diff, stuff it with a load of cleaning putty or blue tack, and be done with it.... best solution for a diff imo, and no need to rebuild!

Ed
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:12 AM   #1989
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personally, I would get the Spec-R gear diff, stuff it with a load of cleaning putty or blue tack, and be done with it.... best solution for a diff imo, and no need to rebuild!

Ed
Ed,

That's what I did, after giving up on the Tamiya aluminum diff outdrives. I was running ceramic balls, and after every run, I had to rebuild my diff! After 2 rebuilds in 2 days, I said screw it and got a gear diff. Should have done it sooner - my runs were more consistent and trouble free. If I had the gear diff early on, probably would have qualified better
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:44 AM   #1990
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Ed,

That's what I did, after giving up on the Tamiya aluminum diff outdrives. I was running ceramic balls, and after every run, I had to rebuild my diff! After 2 rebuilds in 2 days, I said screw it and got a gear diff. Should have done it sooner - my runs were more consistent and trouble free. If I had the gear diff early on, probably would have qualified better
Which diff oil did you use on your gear diff?
thanks
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:06 AM   #1991
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personally, I would get the Spec-R gear diff, stuff it with a load of cleaning putty or blue tack, and be done with it.... best solution for a diff imo, and no need to rebuild!

Ed
Does it still "diff" or is it now a spool?
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Old 03-01-2011, 11:45 AM   #1992
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I've read that in order to use the Spec-R gear diff in your FF-03 that you also needed to use the Spec-R gear case. Is that correct? I run my FF-03 in TCS events and cannot run the Spec-R diff.
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Old 03-01-2011, 05:20 PM   #1993
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correct. my teammates who opted for the SpecR gear diff had to use the matching gearcase... some kind of compatibility thing...
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:01 PM   #1994
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Does it still "diff" or is it now a spool?
Still diff's.. but is very tight, some way above 500k I think. One advantage of it is you don't need to worry about oil leaking out with the putty

And yes, you do need to use the Spec-R gear case, as the Gear diff is wider than the ball diff. The casing does come with inserts to mount up the standard ball diff mind, so once it's in, thats it

My ball diff actually ran really well, didn't need to rebuild it at all aduring the week... it just wasn't providing enough drive out the corner, looking forward to giving it another run at some point when it warms up here in Shaghai.

Ed
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Old 03-01-2011, 08:03 PM   #1995
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Which diff oil did you use on your gear diff?
thanks
I used 100k AE oil

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Does it still "diff" or is it now a spool?
With 100k oil it felt like a really tight ball diff. Advantage for me was that I had a little bit of turn in afforded as compared to a spool. Takeoff from standstill was awesome!

Quote:
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I've read that in order to use the Spec-R gear diff in your FF-03 that you also needed to use the Spec-R gear case. Is that correct? I run my FF-03 in TCS events and cannot run the Spec-R diff.
Same problem here. The Spec-R gearcase comes with adapters to fit either the original ball diff or the gear diff. Too many philips screws to undo to make my car TCS legal again so I won't be running in our events for awhile hehehe. Had my fill of rebuilding the diff so many times during TITC I'm pretty much sick of it right now hahahaha

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Still diff's.. but is very tight, some way above 500k I think. One advantage of it is you don't need to worry about oil leaking out with the putty

And yes, you do need to use the Spec-R gear case, as the Gear diff is wider than the ball diff. The casing does come with inserts to mount up the standard ball diff mind, so once it's in, thats it

My ball diff actually ran really well, didn't need to rebuild it at all aduring the week... it just wasn't providing enough drive out the corner, looking forward to giving it another run at some point when it warms up here in Shaghai.

Ed
You're lucky that your diff stayed ok. Mine was very notchy after every 2 runs. I even put new diff plates on the 2nd day and still became notchy. I've pretty much given up on the Tamiya diff and will join our TCS events again once Tamiya comes out with a geardiff. All in all, I spent more time fixing my FF than my touring car!!!

Also seeing that my times were a second off the A-main guys was very disappointing, am challenged to run FF again next year since I know I could have done so much better, but it just took away so much time from my main focus

Didn't get to meet you though, what main did you run in? I was in main D
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