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Old 01-12-2011, 09:27 AM   #1801
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My email said fastest single qualifier not lap.

Fastest lap is our F1 crowd though and is a really cool way to qualify.
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:42 AM   #1802
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Well i should did this a couple weeks ago when i ordered the ff03 pro but what up grades should i get for it before i get all together .We run silver can where i race with med/high traction . Im getting it ready for the TCS race we are having at my local track so any input would be helpful thanks .
I definitely recommend the aluminum outdrives. CVDs if possible as well.
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:16 AM   #1803
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I definitely recommend the aluminum outdrives. CVDs if possible as well.
And get the alloy spur gear mount
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Old 01-12-2011, 06:14 PM   #1804
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Well, my FF03 is built
Have to say, actually enjoyed building a non-TRF tamiya kit for once, although not so keen on screwing into plastic
I have built an IFS suspension on a TB03 before, but I'd forgotten how cool it was to see all the links working. And it's the first brand new gearbox'd car I've built since a TA03FS some 12years ago! Something about cutting fresh screw threads that's satisfying

Put a few options on the car, alloy diff halves, alloy driveshafts, ti screws, spur holder etc, only thing I realise I forgot was the sway bars, but I can pick those up later.
On the driveshaft front though, I cheated and went for the TRF417 axles, which use a spring clip rather than grub screw to hold the cross pin, to try and free up the shafts as much as possible. I did contemplate for a few seconds the VCS driveshafts from Litemodz, but having seen all the not so good reviews decided against that option!

Now just need to spray up the Integra shell (white or blue, hmm), and then mount up some electrics, and good to go.

Only issue I've run into is that the only 13.5t motor I have (going for 13.5t blinky to test for TITC), is an X12, which is a few mm shorter than other motors, so the solder tabs touch the plastic motor brace, unless I rotate the motor almost 180 and have the tabs pointing down and back to the arm. No biggie (and shouldn't have that prob with the handout hobbywing setup), but it's gonna make my install look ugly...

Will post some pics later, took a load of pics during the build.
Ed
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:29 PM   #1805
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Well, my FF03 is built
Have to say, actually enjoyed building a non-TRF tamiya kit for once, although not so keen on screwing into plastic
I have built an IFS suspension on a TB03 before, but I'd forgotten how cool it was to see all the links working. And it's the first brand new gearbox'd car I've built since a TA03FS some 12years ago! Something about cutting fresh screw threads that's satisfying

Put a few options on the car, alloy diff halves, alloy driveshafts, ti screws, spur holder etc, only thing I realise I forgot was the sway bars, but I can pick those up later.
On the driveshaft front though, I cheated and went for the TRF417 axles, which use a spring clip rather than grub screw to hold the cross pin, to try and free up the shafts as much as possible. I did contemplate for a few seconds the VCS driveshafts from Litemodz, but having seen all the not so good reviews decided against that option!

Now just need to spray up the Integra shell (white or blue, hmm), and then mount up some electrics, and good to go.

Only issue I've run into is that the only 13.5t motor I have (going for 13.5t blinky to test for TITC), is an X12, which is a few mm shorter than other motors, so the solder tabs touch the plastic motor brace, unless I rotate the motor almost 180 and have the tabs pointing down and back to the arm. No biggie (and shouldn't have that prob with the handout hobbywing setup), but it's gonna make my install look ugly...

Will post some pics later, took a load of pics during the build.
Ed
Ed, you will need to place the wire tabs back near the arm.

There is a simple reason for this . With the Hobbywiing motor the sensor lead comes out of the side of the endbell of the motor and is at 90 degrees to the wire tabs. If you try to stand the tabs at 12 oclock the sensor lead will be at 9 oclock facing out the front of the car ... not a good idea

With the wire tabs back at around 4 oclock the sensor lead is up high and thus easier to deal with.

As for motors rubbing against the plastic brace .. get the graphite one which is thinner and works better. Also Yeah racing do a motor spacer which screws to the motor which also helps.

As for an ugly installation , it actually looks super neat with the tabs down and all the wires close together
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:01 PM   #1806
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Ed, you will need to place the wire tabs back near the arm.

There is a simple reason for this . With the Hobbywiing motor the sensor lead comes out of the side of the endbell of the motor and is at 90 degrees to the wire tabs. If you try to stand the tabs at 12 oclock the sensor lead will be at 9 oclock facing out the front of the car ... not a good idea

With the wire tabs back at around 4 oclock the sensor lead is up high and thus easier to deal with.

As for motors rubbing against the plastic brace .. get the graphite one which is thinner and works better. Also Yeah racing do a motor spacer which screws to the motor which also helps.

As for an ugly installation , it actually looks super neat with the tabs down and all the wires close together
Have no experience with Hobbywing motor either, many thanks for tip . How about "sensor cable" proper length for ESC (install per Tamiya's manual)..120, 180 mm or longer ?
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:38 AM   #1807
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Have no experience with Hobbywing motor either, many thanks for tip . How about "sensor cable" proper length for ESC (install per Tamiya's manual)..120, 180 mm or longer ?
The Hobbywing ESC and motor for TITC has a sensor lead long enough to suit the car. As well I have been told that Hobbywing has slightly lengthened the motor wire so that the wires can reach the motor in the FF03. Hopefully we have thought of everything for the event
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:42 AM   #1808
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Well, my FF03 is built
Have to say, actually enjoyed building a non-TRF tamiya kit for once, although not so keen on screwing into plastic
I have built an IFS suspension on a TB03 before, but I'd forgotten how cool it was to see all the links working. And it's the first brand new gearbox'd car I've built since a TA03FS some 12years ago! Something about cutting fresh screw threads that's satisfying

Put a few options on the car, alloy diff halves, alloy driveshafts, ti screws, spur holder etc, only thing I realise I forgot was the sway bars, but I can pick those up later.
On the driveshaft front though, I cheated and went for the TRF417 axles, which use a spring clip rather than grub screw to hold the cross pin, to try and free up the shafts as much as possible. I did contemplate for a few seconds the VCS driveshafts from Litemodz, but having seen all the not so good reviews decided against that option!

Now just need to spray up the Integra shell (white or blue, hmm), and then mount up some electrics, and good to go.

Only issue I've run into is that the only 13.5t motor I have (going for 13.5t blinky to test for TITC), is an X12, which is a few mm shorter than other motors, so the solder tabs touch the plastic motor brace, unless I rotate the motor almost 180 and have the tabs pointing down and back to the arm. No biggie (and shouldn't have that prob with the handout hobbywing setup), but it's gonna make my install look ugly...

Will post some pics later, took a load of pics during the build.
Ed
I tried with the Litemodz CVS and my car felt amazing!
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:24 AM   #1809
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Hey Guys,

Still having rear droop problems. Can someone measure the maximum up travel with the shocks on? And also the Shock length. Mine is set at 5mm ride height and 3mm additional up travel in the rear and 5mm ride height and no additional droop up front, yet still have some on brake spin out.

Thanks
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:44 AM   #1810
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Default Spec-R Gear Diff?

Has anyone heard when the Spec-R gear diff might be available?
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:09 AM   #1811
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Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
Hey Guys,

Still having rear droop problems. Can someone measure the maximum up travel with the shocks on? And also the Shock length. Mine is set at 5mm ride height and 3mm additional up travel in the rear and 5mm ride height and no additional droop up front, yet still have some on brake spin out.

Thanks
They handle far different. You have to drive differently
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:25 AM   #1812
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Has anyone heard when the Spec-R gear diff might be available?
First limited batch should be ready in about 1 week I think.
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Old 01-13-2011, 11:41 AM   #1813
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They handle far different. You have to drive differently
Yes they do, just picking some brains. I also found that I can drive it harder in the first half of the race, but after that it seems to have slowed down and get loose.
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:07 PM   #1814
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They handle far different. You have to drive differently
Aint that the truth. Backend likes to step out, when it does, punch the throttle.
It's like pulling a trailer that's waggin around back there, hit the gas and it gets back in line. (more or less)

Legal bodies for this class have crap for wings, no help in the aero dept but when a real wing is on these cars they get locked in.

So like every type of racing, it's 99.9% tires.

.1% is getting the setup to support the frontend weight so it won't roll over and unload the rearend yet still allow it to turn.
Good luck with that.
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Old 01-13-2011, 03:12 PM   #1815
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Originally Posted by TAMAK View Post
Hey Guys,

Still having rear droop problems. Can someone measure the maximum up travel with the shocks on? And also the Shock length. Mine is set at 5mm ride height and 3mm additional up travel in the rear and 5mm ride height and no additional droop up front, yet still have some on brake spin out.

Thanks
Take away some brake you might have it set to high. Also try adding more toe in in the rear that will make the a$$ hook more.
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