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Old 01-03-2011, 04:58 PM   #1726
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I think that depends on the amount of preload.
Yes I know, but I took all of it out and it still sits to high. I guess i'll have to use limiters and remove the 1mm shims that go under the suspension arm mounts.
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:28 PM   #1727
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How are you lowering the ride height in these cars. I am trying to achieve a 5mm ride height both front and rear, but the front is just too high? I set it up as per instructions and I took all of the pre load out of the front shock but it's still high.
The Front susp link rod length according to the directions is 12.5mm gap between the Ball ends.
Mine are 12mm.
You should be able to get your ride height by adjusting those Huff.
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:44 PM   #1728
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Mine is built to spec and with the firm blue springs up front I am almost out of threads for the preload adjustment too.

Others have used the shorter springs from the sets for the mini shocks.
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:20 PM   #1729
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Where are you sitting at?
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:08 PM   #1730
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Where are you sitting at?
In front of my comp... oh, ride height?

I can go below 5mm no problem, I have the Rodzilla setup from the Tamiya website (I also just ask cuz he's at the same place as me runnin his car ).
If you notice, the arms are flipped (reversible), so shock mounts and even the adjustable links are different so that could be causing some difference in setup also.
Lower link end is in the outer hole on the arm.

Another guy has the 1mm lower spring cups at the base of his springs which also allows it to go lower.
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Old 01-03-2011, 10:01 PM   #1731
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Hi guys, please post your FF03 bodies. Here is my first FF03 body.....
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:23 PM   #1732
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Hey guys I have some quick questions about this car:

Is the battery tray big enough to fit hardcase lipos? My hardcase lipo is the same as a six cell battery in width and height but it is about 9 mm longer. Will this fit? That's a deal breaker for me if it doesn't.

Also, how would the FWD handle a 3800kv Castle brushless?

Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:06 AM   #1733
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Hey guys I have some quick questions about this car:

Is the battery tray big enough to fit hardcase lipos? My hardcase lipo is the same as a six cell battery in width and height but it is about 9 mm longer. Will this fit? That's a deal breaker for me if it doesn't.

Also, how would the FWD handle a 3800kv Castle brushless?

Thanks!
I have measured the battery tray with my cheapo very-near (vernier ) & the length is 140mm & the width is 49mm. I have a Trak Power, HPI Plazma & a Core RC hard case LiPos as well as a variety of NiMhs & they fit fine...

The only thing I did was Dremel a hole at the back (although there is a hole at the front for this) to allow more space for the wires to exit without being squeezed (I prefer to wire it that way).

When I run either the LiPos or the NiMhs, I have plenty of space & I should perhaps consider using the foam strips provided to stop the small amount of 'shift' within the battery tray to improve handling.

Regarding the motor, there are plenty of drivers out there that can give you advice, but you have to remember that this is a Front Wheel Drive & any injudicious use of the throttle & the front will 'let go', so smoothness is key, whatever power motor you run.

That's my penny worth, I hope it is of use
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:37 AM   #1734
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Any chance the Pro kit come's with hex head screws?
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:47 AM   #1735
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Any chance the Pro kit come's with hex head screws?
Nope.
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:53 AM   #1736
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Dang.....
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:56 AM   #1737
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hence why I ordered mine with the Ti screw kit from RC Mart.... can't stand phillips'. Having said that, probably got enough spare screws in the pit box, so some Ti''s might be transplanted to my 417
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:18 AM   #1738
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I hear ya! I cant build a car using phillips head screws. I knew I saw a TI kit some where. To bad RcMart was not in the U.S.

ewippler sells a blue anodized aluminum kits made from 7075 aircraft grade aluminum.
He sells them here on Tech and on ebay under the same user name.

I'll probably buy a set just waiting on a PM. He ships fast.
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Old 01-04-2011, 07:48 AM   #1739
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put a small bit of grease over the end of the screw or the hole before you put the screw in for the first time, this makes it easier to make the thread and is less effort on the screw driver, plus you can feel when it is seated easier.

As for ride height, I must have built mine wrong, cos the front (when loaded for race) sat at 3mm, do I had to raise it to stop the front from scraping over the bumps
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:05 AM   #1740
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Originally Posted by Waco View Post
I have measured the battery tray with my cheapo very-near (vernier ) & the length is 140mm & the width is 49mm. I have a Trak Power, HPI Plazma & a Core RC hard case LiPos as well as a variety of NiMhs & they fit fine...

The only thing I did was Dremel a hole at the back (although there is a hole at the front for this) to allow more space for the wires to exit without being squeezed (I prefer to wire it that way).

When I run either the LiPos or the NiMhs, I have plenty of space & I should perhaps consider using the foam strips provided to stop the small amount of 'shift' within the battery tray to improve handling.

Regarding the motor, there are plenty of drivers out there that can give you advice, but you have to remember that this is a Front Wheel Drive & any injudicious use of the throttle & the front will 'let go', so smoothness is key, whatever power motor you run.

That's my penny worth, I hope it is of use
Thanks! I think you just sold me on the car.

By the way, I know this is a random question, but does the Civic VTI body come with headlight decals?

The picture from Tower hobbies shows that the lights are painted black, but I don't want to go for that race scheme (due to my painting inability) and would like the headlight decals instead.
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