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Old 11-30-2010, 09:09 AM   #1576
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If you want to cement them use this:

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CCQQ8gIwAA#

Otherwise just drill the outdrive and insert a roll pin close within the ID of the ring. Then take your dremel and notch the ring on the ID to match the roll pin. (like we use to do 20+ years ago)

Pinning creates a more consistent diff as gluing can lift the ring off of the outdrive on one side.
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Old 11-30-2010, 10:07 AM   #1577
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter View Post
If you want to cement them use this:

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CCQQ8gIwAA#

Otherwise just drill the outdrive and insert a roll pin close within the ID of the ring. Then take your dremel and notch the ring on the ID to match the roll pin. (like we use to do 20+ years ago)

Pinning creates a more consistent diff as gluing can lift the ring off of the outdrive on one side.
I thought of doing the old school diff ring pin trick, but that's just too much work. I bought some rubber cement at the local arts/crafts store for less than $4 taxes included and I'll give this a go.

It's a shame that the Tamiya diff rings don't have a flat to match the one already moulded into the diff joints. My old Yokomo sedans all used a D-ring in the diff that eliminated any slippage issues like this.
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Old 11-30-2010, 11:47 AM   #1578
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Lightbulb CA works... for diff rings

scuff diff ring/diff half mating surfaces.. mate/tack diff ring/diff half together with just a dab of CA. once together, coat perimeter of assembly with a bead of CA.. (as you would seal the edge of carbonfibre chassis).. stong bond, can be easily separated with a sharp exacto blade..

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Old 11-30-2010, 12:03 PM   #1579
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scuff diff ring/diff half mating surfaces.. mate/tack diff ring/diff half together with just a dab of CA. once together, coat perimeter of assembly with a bead of CA.. (as you would seal the edge of carbonfibre chassis).. stong bond, can be easily separated with a sharp exacto blade..

$0.02
I scuffed my diff rings and scored the plastic diff joints before gluing together with epoxy last night. Everything went together flat and true so I think I'm good for now. I will try the rubber cement on my next diff build.
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Old 11-30-2010, 12:38 PM   #1580
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The "diffing out" I refer to is when the inside drive wheel is lifting and spinning and not really a loss of traction (other than that one wheel getting lit up) and not a loose slipping diff either.
One tire fire, one wheel peel...

RtypeC tells me to stay smooth and let the car settle before pullin the trigger.
That is great advise and works, I have also found that for me, the swaybar seems to get it to settle quicker but too stiff of a swaybar takes away too much steering. I run the red/soft and sometimes the yellow/medium options.

As far as rubber cement goes, if the shoe goo type is not available, I'm almost positive that silicone gasket sealer will do it. It will stick, guaranteed and also be pliable.
You'll have to work to get it off for your next rebuild.
I know what you meant regarding the 'diffing out', its just that I had to double check whether or not mine was doing it on a slippery track (tends to be a lot of that in the UK ) and it was the lost grip making a similar sound. It may be because I run rubber tyres & the diff doesn't have such a large 'load' as both tyres let go at the same time?
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Old 11-30-2010, 02:18 PM   #1581
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I need hlep with the FF03 and gearing.
My motor is a 21.5 brushless and my esc is a Tekin RS (2.12 software).
What gearing works well?
I run parking lot and track races.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-30-2010, 03:15 PM   #1582
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I need hlep with the FF03 and gearing.
My motor is a 21.5 brushless and my esc is a Tekin RS (2.12 software).
What gearing works well?
I run parking lot and track races.

Thanks in advance.
I've been gettin away with 78 spur with 58 pinion and I run 130 degrees or less on hot days.
LRP X11 and GTB.
Pretty fast too.
Still gonna gear higher if I don't have to go to 17.5 but that seems to be the direction we're headed.
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Old 11-30-2010, 03:20 PM   #1583
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I've been gettin away with 78 spur with 58 pinion and I run 130 degrees or less on hot days.
LRP X11 and GTB.
Pretty fast too.
Still gonna gear higher if I don't have to go to 17.5 but that seems to be the direction we're headed.

That is a massive 57mm rollout !!! Fine for non turbo but he doesn't say if he has the turbo software turned on or not. If he runs that gearing with turbo software it will be flames
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Old 11-30-2010, 03:30 PM   #1584
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That is a massive 57mm rollout !!! Fine for non turbo but he doesn't say if he has the turbo software turned on or not. If he runs that gearing with turbo software it will be flames
Some gear even higher, some gear more than that with their 17.5.

No boost is where we're at.

Gear it lower and you get left behind.
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Old 11-30-2010, 03:52 PM   #1585
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Some gear even higher, some gear more than that with their 17.5.

No boost is where we're at.

Gear it lower and you get left behind.

I was just making the point that he should not follow your gearing if he is running turbo etc otherwise he will smoke his motor. If no timing or turbo on his ESC then give your gearing a go
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Old 11-30-2010, 03:55 PM   #1586
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I was just making the point that he should not follow your gearing if he is running turbo etc otherwise he will smoke his motor. If no timing or turbo on his ESC then give your gearing a go
I don't do turbo so can't say.

So you've tested it and found the limit?
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Old 11-30-2010, 04:07 PM   #1587
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Has anybody compared the lap time from a FF03 to a 4wd Touring car. Is there is any significant discrepancey in lap times between the two?
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Old 11-30-2010, 04:15 PM   #1588
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I don't do turbo so can't say.

So you've tested it and found the limit?

No one can give someone else gearing suggestions anymore unless they are running exactly the same ESC, motor and ESC settings. Even two racers running a Tekin ESC can have completely different gearings because of the way they set up the ESC. GTB's are old school. Tekin , LRP, Hobbywing all have timing and turbo functions that can drastically change the gearing. For example a 21.5 motor with turbo function deployed could run a rollout of as low as 38mm . Far different to your 57mm.

As I said before, if he is running turbo etc then your suggestion would cook his motor. I was just giving a warning
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Old 11-30-2010, 04:24 PM   #1589
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I'm running mine with stock spur and 20T pinion with Team Powers 13.5T motor and Xerun 60A esc with turbo. The thing leaves black stripes out of all corners and temps are pretty low on motor. We run foams on our cars. I use Jaco 37 shore 26mm up front and Jaco 35 shore 30mm rears, uncut. Massive grip and plenty of power!

Fun and fast!
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Old 11-30-2010, 04:27 PM   #1590
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No one can give someone else gearing suggestions anymore unless they are running exactly the same ESC, motor and ESC settings. Even two racers running a Tekin ESC can have completely different gearings because of the way they set up the ESC. GTB's are old school. Tekin , LRP, Hobbywing all have timing and turbo functions that can drastically change the gearing. For example a 21.5 motor with turbo function deployed could run a rollout of as low as 38mm . Far different to your 57mm.

...


not equal...
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