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Old 12-01-2010, 10:19 AM   #1471
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If anyone is looking to buy a tcx kit I have a brand new in box kit. PM me for details if interested. Thanks
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:17 PM   #1472
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Default Wheel Chatter at full lock...

Hi there,

Would anyone know what's the cause of wheel chatter at full lock? I checked for play and it's normal. The CVDs are in perfect shape and yet I can't pick out what's the cause.

Thanks
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Old 12-01-2010, 11:58 PM   #1473
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Hi there,

Would anyone know what's the cause of wheel chatter at full lock? I checked for play and it's normal. The CVDs are in perfect shape and yet I can't pick out what's the cause.

Thanks
Make sure the dog bone pins are in the same plane within the spool. I had this before on a TA05 and even at very little steering had a lot of chatter. I then changed one of the dog bones 90 degrees so they were both in the same plane and the chatter only came near to full lock.

It may help....try it...
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:32 AM   #1474
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Hi there,

Would anyone know what's the cause of wheel chatter at full lock? I checked for play and it's normal. The CVDs are in perfect shape and yet I can't pick out what's the cause.

Thanks
Standard CVDs will chatter to some degree at full lock.....this is normal. It is more apparent when the car is unloaded on a car stand and minimizes when the suspension is loaded.

Some companies (HB, Xray, etc) have developed constant velocity double-jointed CVDs to combat chatter and improve efficiency. Not a necessary upgrade though.

I run my TCX with the stock CVDs with no issues. I tried a Litemodz set once and they failed after 3 minutes and went back to stock. I believe unless they are the Xray ECS driveshafts leave them stock and less will go wrong!
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:39 AM   #1475
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Hi there,

Would anyone know what's the cause of wheel chatter at full lock? I checked for play and it's normal. The CVDs are in perfect shape and yet I can't pick out what's the cause.

Thanks
All cars with spool have chatter at the max steering, the only way to remove is replace the normal shaft with double axles (DCJ), but unfortunately HB has not yet produced the version TCX (46mm), we hope that they are produced at the soon.
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:27 AM   #1476
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All cars with spool have chatter at the max steering, the only way to remove is replace the normal shaft with double axles (DCJ), but unfortunately HB has not yet produced the version TCX (46mm), we hope that they are produced at the soon.
Try www.litemodz.com there producing 46mm CVS's now

Malc
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Old 12-02-2010, 04:54 AM   #1477
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mr lee,

Thanks for suggestion man, I will surely check it out but as soon as I get in a new pair of CVDs and a bunch of other parts I slammed her into a wall at a light speed today. I recently got myself a 3.5 Velociti and was at an underground car park today and was pulling off some sweet drifts when I decided to be ambitious and whip up a wide-high speed drift and BAM!! Good-Bye front right CVD, hub, A arm etc.

Kane-o and AGNO,

Is it really necessary to have 46MM in the front and 44MM in the rear? I believe the HB's ones are only 44MM but if that's not the case then I might as well give them a go. Because the ones by litemodz cost twice as much which I can afford but whilst I care my RCs like a shelf queen, the same can't be said on my driving.

TheCoolCanFanMan,

Thanks for the link man, checked them out for little too expensive but morely I'll probably brake them in to secs.
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Old 12-02-2010, 06:29 AM   #1478
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Is it really necessary to have 46MM in the front and 44MM in the rear? I believe the HB's ones are only 44MM but if that's not the case then I might as well give them a go. Because the ones by litemodz cost twice as much which I can afford but whilst I care my RCs like a shelf queen, the same can't be said on my driving.
At the front you need the 46mm, however the chatter with the CVD standard is not excessive and does not compromise the performance.
Substitution with the DCJ decreases the chatter, but are not required
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:51 AM   #1479
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Here is a suggestion to kill some chatter problem on the drive shaft.

It is very easy, just remove the set screw (on the cross spider) off and put a collar on the axle to hold the drive shaft pin instead. Top Racing makes the collar for this and it fits perfectly on our axle. But you can also use the collar from our option parts #67731 POM solid axle cup joint. (please see the picture attached)

When you remove the set screw off from the cross spider, the drive shaft spins freer. I would say that the best combo is to use with POM spool drive cup (#67731) and no set screw on drive shaft. The DCJ still runs smoother than this, but it is very close to DCJ feeling.

If you are fighting with chatter problem, i recommend to try this.
Please let me know if you have any questions.

Hope it helps.
Hiro
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:02 AM   #1480
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Here is a suggestion to kill some chatter problem on the drive shaft.

It is very easy, just remove the set screw (on the cross spider) off and put a collar on the axle to hold the drive shaft pin instead. Top Racing makes the collar for this and it fits perfectly on our axle. But you can also use the collar from our option parts #67731 POM solid axle cup joint. (please see the picture attached)

When you remove the set screw off from the cross spider, the drive shaft spins freer. I would say that the best combo is to use with POM spool drive cup (#67731) and no set screw on drive shaft. The DCJ still runs smoother than this, but it is very close to DCJ feeling.

If you are fighting with chatter problem, i recommend to try this.
Please let me know if you have any questions.

Hope it helps.
Hiro
Which way do you slip the POM cover on the outdrive?
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:34 AM   #1481
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Which way do you slip the POM cover on the outdrive?
From the axle side.
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:36 AM   #1482
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Default LOOK!

Anybody looking for a TCX? Lots of NIP parts and very little use.

FS: Hot Bodies TCX w/ lots of parts
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:45 AM   #1483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Here is a suggestion to kill some chatter problem on the drive shaft.

It is very easy, just remove the set screw (on the cross spider) off and put a collar on the axle to hold the drive shaft pin instead. Top Racing makes the collar for this and it fits perfectly on our axle. But you can also use the collar from our option parts #67731 POM solid axle cup joint. (please see the picture attached)

When you remove the set screw off from the cross spider, the drive shaft spins freer. I would say that the best combo is to use with POM spool drive cup (#67731) and no set screw on drive shaft. The DCJ still runs smoother than this, but it is very close to DCJ feeling.

If you are fighting with chatter problem, i recommend to try this.
Please let me know if you have any questions.

Hope it helps.
Hiro
Is top racing made of aluminium?
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:28 PM   #1484
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Is top racing made of aluminium?
Yes
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Old 12-03-2010, 01:02 AM   #1485
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mr lee,

Thanks for suggestion man, I will surely check it out but as soon as I get in a new pair of CVDs and a bunch of other parts I slammed her into a wall at a light speed today. I recently got myself a 3.5 Velociti and was at an underground car park today and was pulling off some sweet drifts when I decided to be ambitious and whip up a wide-high speed drift and BAM!! Good-Bye front right CVD, hub, A arm etc.

Kane-o and AGNO,

Is it really necessary to have 46MM in the front and 44MM in the rear? I believe the HB's ones are only 44MM but if that's not the case then I might as well give them a go. Because the ones by litemodz cost twice as much which I can afford but whilst I care my RCs like a shelf queen, the same can't be said on my driving.

TheCoolCanFanMan,

Thanks for the link man, checked them out for little too expensive but morely I'll probably brake them in to secs.
Awe that sucks dude! Hope you get it sorted soon.....
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