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Old 11-21-2010, 05:17 PM   #1396
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AGNO,

After looking at Hara's set-up I would also change sway-bars front 1.6mm rear 1.2mm, front pivot blocks spacer to 1.5mm, front stock tower hole #5.
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:08 AM   #1397
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I would try more droop in the rear (lower arms) and less droop in the front (higher arms).

Smaller spacer under the rear ball studs (more grip).

Make one change at a time 1st rear droop 2nd front droop 3rd ball stud.
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AGNO,

After looking at Hara's set-up I would also change sway-bars front 1.6mm rear 1.2mm, front pivot blocks spacer to 1.5mm, front stock tower hole #5.

I had a lot of droop front and rear, the next time I'll try to decrease the front.
I tried front sway-bar 1.4 mm and 1.2 mm rear (1.6 mm is not available for TCX).
However, the IIC Hara setup during practice was pretty good, things became much worse with the increasing grip.
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:59 AM   #1398
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Are there any setups around for foam asphalt?
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Old 11-22-2010, 05:23 AM   #1399
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Quote:
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I had a lot of droop front and rear, the next time I'll try to decrease the front.
I tried front sway-bar 1.4 mm and 1.2 mm rear (1.6 mm is not available for TCX).
However, the IIC Hara setup during practice was pretty good, things became much worse with the increasing grip.
You'll right 1.6mm is not available I was thinking (black TC 1.6mm). But your problem is as track grip increased your cars grip decreased? You described your car as too nervous and little rear grip.
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Old 11-22-2010, 06:00 AM   #1400
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Quote:
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You'll right 1.6mm is not available I was thinking (black TC 1.6mm). But your problem is as track grip increased your cars grip decreased? You described your car as too nervous and little rear grip.
Yes, this is the problem, when it increased the grip is greatly increased steering and increased front grip was too lighten the rear, creating loss of adhesion.
Perhaps with a less aggressive guide and with a greater ability to control the car can esssere very fast, but I'm not able ...
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Old 11-22-2010, 06:06 AM   #1401
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had a similar problem running on asphalt. when the traction came up i could barely drive the car around a corner. seemed the front was grabbing too hard so the rear would swing around easily. to help, we widened the rear track width (6mm hexes), removed the rear swaybar, removed the shim on the top camber link, and went from pink to gold springs in front (kept the silver springs at the rear). also tried running heavier oil (currently running 65wt in front and 55wt in the rear). easier to drive now but it's still a hand full for me. hths
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Old 11-22-2010, 06:13 AM   #1402
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Quote:
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AGNO,

After looking at Hara's set-up I would also change sway-bars front 1.6mm rear 1.2mm, front pivot blocks spacer to 1.5mm, front stock tower hole #5.
TCX sway bars are rated differently. There's no 1.6mm.

Gold = 1.2mm
Silver = 1.3mm
Black = 1.4mm
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Old 11-22-2010, 07:11 AM   #1403
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BTW Big congratulations to Ryan Maker who dominated the field at the Australian Titles over the weekend
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:51 AM   #1404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGNO View Post
Yes, this is the problem, when it increased the grip is greatly increased steering and increased front grip was too lighten the rear, creating loss of adhesion.
Perhaps with a less aggressive guide and with a greater ability to control the car can esssere very fast, but I'm not able ...
Sorry to butt in on the TCX thread, but...

This is more or less the exact same problem I've seen myself with a few years of running the TOP Scythe (which uses the HB suspension) under my belt, and what I've seen trackside from a lot of people driving Cyclones and Pro4's over the years.

The suspension geometry on these cars generates a LOT of steering. Fast when it's under control, but when you are pushing the limit, the back end becomes very loose.

A couple of things that helped (a little) for me on the Scythe was a higher front roll centre (0.5-1mm extra under the blocks), heavier front damping, and less arm sweep. But the tendency to oversteer was always there. A long rear upper link has always been on my "to do" list as well (although I suspect the outer hole on the rear hub is a bit too long...).
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:27 AM   #1405
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help!
I need a setup for carpet and Sorex 36 tires, I tried the setup Hara IIC but with poor results, is too nervous with oversteer and little rear grip, is not suited to my driving.
I state that I attend a few races on carpet and my guide is not the best on this surface, so I need a setup that makes the model easy enough to drive.
Anyone have experience with these tires on carpet?
Any suggestion is appreciated.
Thanks.
Have you tried lower the rear inner link by 1mm, use 1.2 rear sway bar, and take two screws out of top deck at rear of chassis. This helped my car out quite a bit last weekend.

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Old 11-22-2010, 09:29 AM   #1406
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What about trying some ant-dive up front to keep the front end from grabbing too much? I know the Tamiya guys do this to smooth the car out. Also, maybe try applying traction compound to rear tires longer than the front.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:48 AM   #1407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGNO View Post
Yes, this is the problem, when it increased the grip is greatly increased steering and increased front grip was too lighten the rear, creating loss of adhesion.
Perhaps with a less aggressive guide and with a greater ability to control the car can esssere very fast, but I'm not able ...
You can also put a Diff in the front, I find that a spool pulls hard.
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:03 AM   #1408
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Or simply, wide the front pivot blocks, you can use 1 or 2 in F/R.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 11-22-2010, 11:36 AM   #1409
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I would move the front suspension arms forward by 1mm. So there should be 1.0mm shim in front of a-arms and 1.75mm in back. You can also rise up the suspension block to 1.25mm/1.5mm from the AH setup (1.0mm).

Hope it helps.
Thanks,
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Old 11-22-2010, 01:18 PM   #1410
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Wow! Thanks, many tips and all valid, in December will attend the next race on carpet, I will keep you informed.
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