Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

Hi moraccio,
Sorry, the setup sheet was missing (again) some info. Please see below.

- what is the rear toe in in Andy's set up? 3 deg as usual?
Yes it was 3 deg as usual.

- how many mm under rear pivot (FR RR)?
Andy's car had 1.5mm on RF/RR.

- I noticed Andy reduced the shocks lenght to 62.0 and 62.5mm why? Maybe to reduce the oil pack during the open corners?
Basically, we change the shock length to adjust the piston position mainly. Making it shorter lets the piston sit lower, so in this case, the shocks have more pack as they are set shorter. Once we find the good shock piston position, we try to adjust the legth front and rear differently to let the piston sit about the same on both front and rear. (the same shock length needs to be different front and rear when you want the same piston position for both front and rear as they both have different leverage.)

Thanks,

Bar

iTrader: (1)

Hiro, how come the guys are running tamiya rear hubs and not the new hot bodies ones? And how come the shock oil being ran is so thin, was it because the track was really smooth? Sorry i always run associated or schumacher oil which is measured differently so i believe this is actually really thick

peter.

when we can preorder the tcxx

OnRDPassion

iTrader: (59)

Where are you pre-ordering from?

peter.

sorry my mistake it should be (when we can preorder the tcxx)

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

Hello Bar,

The reason they used the Tamiya rear hubs on their car was that the rear camber link position on the hubs. Out side hole on the tamiya rear hub is actually right in the middle of two holes on our new rear hub and the position worked the best at the world.

Please don’t take this info incorrectly, we used the Tamiya one this time but that doesn’t mean that our new rear hubs don’t work as good as Tamiya hubs. This kind of things is tuning option such as shock springs, etc. The best setup may vary depends on the condition. We might have another rear hub set later as an option item for the TCXX so we can pick off-set camber link positions on each hub.

As for the shock setup (thicker oil), we used the setup at the worlds because it has been proven. We have been trying/testing it at many different tracks and it seems the setup works really well at most of the condition. Of course we make finer adjustment to suit the track condition by changing piston hole size, oil, etc everytime we go to different track though.

Hope it answers to your question.

peter.

when can the HB tcxx preorder

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

any one looking for aluminum knuckles and/or rear hubs?

I have a set of 3Racing ones up for sale

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ots-stuff.html

louielou

iTrader: (16)

what conditions r shortening the shocks n lowering piston postion advantages?

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

I know some people simply say that lowering the piston position gives more traction, but in my opinion it is really hard to say it's "more" or "less" as it really depends on other factors.

Piston position changes the dampaning characteristic drastically. You can control the rigidity effect (mainly for the roll of the car for both front to back and side way) by adjusting piston position. This adjustment actually doesn't change the dampaning, it changes how the piston compress the oil (above the piston) before the oil pushes up the bladder eventually. (rebound)

To answer to your question, I would shorten the shocks and lower the piston position when i want more roll rigidity on the car.

Hope it helps. (and sorry if i make you confused by the bad english explanation....)

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

probably more of a question for your local hobby shop - unless you're going to order direct from HB

Hiro can only say when its going to be available to the shop/distributors - its then up to your local place to decide when they want to accept pre-orders

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

HB New Arrived !

eceer

iTrader: (13)

Does anyone know of a 3rd party replacement for the A302 Ball cups?

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

you can use Losi A6017 rod ends from the JRXS-R - was recommended a while ago to take out some of the slop. plus they are open, so you don't need to keep poping them off for shim adjustments

only downside, you'll need longer turnbuckles all over:

camber links need the 3x34mm turnbuckles (steering) 61247
steering links need to be longer as well - but i don't know the length off hand...i did this 'mod' when i was building my car, so don't remember what size i used

you can search thru this thread for posts from MikeHaynes - i think he said what size you need for the steering links once you do this

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

I use the Losi HD ballcups the really firm ones. I trim them a little on the end then use a body reamer to open a hole above the ball so I can use a 2mm to remove them without popping ballcups.