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Old 07-19-2012, 06:02 AM   #4516
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I know when I got the car I had trouble finding spares, but as months went on, supply has gotten much better. Most of the online shops have what I need. Sad to hear supply in the UK is not to par with you.

Plastic? these are common spares ie. c blocks, suspension arms, steering knuckles. I think I have like 4 of each in my pit cases for rainy days.

As for wishbones. Go for steel. Im running DCJ up front and the elusive/discontinued pro4 steel axles in the rear. I know SpecR makes some nice steel axles if your looking for spares.

If you honestly believe parts support for you is bad. There is nothing wrong moving to another brand if you can easily get parts for.
Cheers but after years of experience the above is all second nature to me already.

I run the Roche spool and tamiya DS as the HPI/Hotbodies stuff is crap. The only area i run them is the rear as you do.

Moving to another car isnt as simple as that when i have a stupid amount invested in the car and the parts I do have.

HPI UK may have the parts, but in fairness why buy a single of each wishbone for over 13 when I can get them for under 6 overseas ??
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:08 AM   #4517
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Originally Posted by revsinc View Post
Wait for the hot bodies diff
the spec-r are not very good, they leak and are failure prone ,
i have lots of trouble with them even with boosted stock ..
No problem with my spec-r, bought spare seals, gears etc but haven't needed them.
build it correctly and no problems
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:12 AM   #4518
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Originally Posted by bob33 View Post
any one know where i can get the purple shock adjusters and spring perches from pref in the uk? i see the adjuster have been discontinued?
also im looking at geting a gear diff should i just wait for the HB one or just get the specR one? thanks.

rattlr2, iv only just got a tcx and havent raced in 3 to 4 years all i got for the car was the specR v2 swing shafts for the front and some 1.1 3hole pistons. raced on sunday and was rite on the pace. this car is very good out the box. caught a few curbs hard and nothing broke. so to answe,r really its fast out the box.
I am using Schumacher purple adjusters - work fine, available from Demon (even listed in TCX spares)

AS above post Spec R gear works fine, never had a problem, only slight annyonance is the Spec-R moulding is not totally round but doesn't cause any major problem
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:23 AM   #4519
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No problem with my spec-r, bought spare seals, gears etc but haven't needed them.
build it correctly and no problems
ditto here

I have 3 of them filled with various oils, and 1 solid spool - never had an issue with any of them
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:47 AM   #4520
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No problem with my spec-r, bought spare seals, gears etc but haven't needed them.
build it correctly and no problems
+1

I have 4 of them, no problem.
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Old 07-19-2012, 01:12 PM   #4521
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Anyone have 5?
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:12 PM   #4522
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ill get one then (might evan get 5 lol).
yeh i saw the schumacher ones fit ill end up with them as cant find no hpi ones anyway.the spring perchs have been discontinued too.

thanks for the reply to email earlier barry too hopfully it will go well. what are the low shock towers best for? low or high grip /tight or flowing?
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:47 PM   #4523
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Originally Posted by bob33 View Post
ill get one then (might evan get 5 lol).
yeh i saw the schumacher ones fit ill end up with them as cant find no hpi ones anyway.the spring perchs have been discontinued too.

thanks for the reply to email earlier barry too hopfully it will go well. what are the low shock towers best for? low or high grip /tight or flowing?
I think I am correct in saying the lower mounts allow you run a bit more droop if required.

I am sure one the top guys will answer you question properly
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:57 AM   #4524
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The lowered towers change the shock piston position in the shock body. It moves the shock piston further up into the body, decreasing the volume of shock oil on top of the piston. This results in less "pack" and allows the car to roll and transfer weight more freely. This creates a more aggressive car that rotates better through the corners.

These have been the hot setup for a little while. but I still prefer the original shock towers in really low grip or bumpy tracks. They tend to make the car feel a little more locked in and stable to make it easier to drive.

Hope that helps!

-Korey
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:32 PM   #4525
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The lowered towers change the shock piston position in the shock body. It moves the shock piston further up into the body, decreasing the volume of shock oil on top of the piston. This results in less "pack" and allows the car to roll and transfer weight more freely. This creates a more aggressive car that rotates better through the corners.

These have been the hot setup for a little while. but I still prefer the original shock towers in really low grip or bumpy tracks. They tend to make the car feel a little more locked in and stable to make it easier to drive.

Hope that helps!

-Korey
Thanks Korey
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Old 07-22-2012, 02:55 PM   #4526
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makes sens now. ill stick to the std ones then.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:37 AM   #4527
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Rear Belt tension????

I bought a used TCX a couple seasons ago and I have been fighting to get the rear belt loosened up. I have the belt tensioners set to the loosest setting, I have tried 2 different chassis, a second set of bulkheads, 3 belts and a couple sets of tensioners. Has anyone else had this issue? Or is there something I am over looking?
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:45 AM   #4528
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Rear Belt tension????

I bought a used TCX a couple seasons ago and I have been fighting to get the rear belt loosened up. I have the belt tensioners set to the loosest setting, I have tried 2 different chassis, a second set of bulkheads, 3 belts and a couple sets of tensioners. Has anyone else had this issue? Or is there something I am over looking?
Check the belt, front 171T, rear 64T, check if the tensioners are correct, should be marked #5.
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:12 AM   #4529
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Check the belt, front 171T, rear 64T, check if the tensioners are correct, should be marked #5.
also check the rear belt - make sure its a HPI one. I know I bought a Spec-R lo-friction one and it was too short, even though the packaging said it was for the TCX, it was actually a TC belt

that tweaked the hell outta my car, luckily i found the issue before I had too much track time on it
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Old 07-23-2012, 01:58 PM   #4530
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Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
also check the rear belt - make sure its a HPI one. I know I bought a Spec-R lo-friction one and it was too short, even though the packaging said it was for the TCX, it was actually a TC belt

that tweaked the hell outta my car, luckily i found the issue before I had too much track time on it
You should also check the eccentric cams. There are two different ones on the part tree. You need the #5.

I'm 80% sure this is it.
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