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Old 04-30-2012, 03:28 PM   #4276
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
http://www.hpieurope.com/news.php?la...sue=2012040301

You can see the new chassis plate there, Its the same one as the one they where using at TITC, but instead of the cutouts and 2.5mm, It has no cutouts and 2.25mm. Andy believes this was the right way to go. Pictured is also the new top deck plus all the other goodies. After more testing I have stuck with that top deck, seemed to be easiest to drive and give me the best lap times overall.


Antoni
I am a bit slow.. but from that pic it looks like Andy was running the two hole steering hubs rather then the newer three. Also the split blocks up front but not in the rear. Interesting.. I have them front and rear.. heard a few ppl doing this..

Also Ant how is the new chassis outdoors asphalt..
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:09 PM   #4277
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Originally Posted by warnos View Post
I am a bit slow.. but from that pic it looks like Andy was running the two hole steering hubs rather then the newer three. Also the split blocks up front but not in the rear. Interesting.. I have them front and rear.. heard a few ppl doing this..

Also Ant how is the new chassis outdoors asphalt..
Andy is still using Tamiya knuckles in that pic (same as 3 hole knuckle, but less lock). I think the Tamiya knuckles are also a harder carbon material than the HB ones.

Andy only runs split blocks in the front only to get more steering. I have tested this and It does give a tiny bit more steering than running them all round. The toe is a lot more consistant with the 1 piece block as the split blocks can move when tightening them and/or small hits. In high grip i'd probably recommend the 1 piece, for low the split blocks.

The new chassis is going great! It has a lot of flex underneath the motor and the car is very consistant to drive with, but still has good steering. My car generates a lot more traction aswell, compared to the kit chassis. Although mine is still a 2.5mm with the cutouts rather than the 2.25 non cutout one.

Ill be at Muchmores in a couple weeks, come see me and ill show you all the new stuff
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:18 AM   #4278
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Hi Barry
Ive been runing the lower towers for indoors and wlrc, with silver silver springs amd 400m oil front and rear, maybe you shoukd try heavier oil,;as not sure what make you are running. i also run 3 hole 1.2 which make for a smoother pack

cheers Makc
Thanks Malc will give that a try
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:38 AM   #4279
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hi Malc, I see you raced at the BRCA Clubmans at WLRC and I was wondering if you have you have a set-up from their including what bits you used which are not standard tcx bits i.e chassis, top deck, 3 hole hubs, new 3 pistons and any other bits that you used would be much appreciated.
thanks
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Old 05-02-2012, 01:06 AM   #4280
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Originally Posted by Bar View Post
hi Malc, I see you raced at the BRCA Clubmans at WLRC and I was wondering if you have you have a set-up from their including what bits you used which are not standard tcx bits i.e chassis, top deck, 3 hole hubs, new 3 pistons and any other bits that you used would be much appreciated.
thanks
Hi Bar
Yea car was awesome but never put a clean run in all day, hence 9th in the A, but did manage the fastest lap of the day at 15.27 :0) didnt have good finals either.

I was using
Spec R -2 lower shock towers
Spec R geard diff with yellow star Kinetic oil
Smokem chassis
3 hole steering hubs
Tamiya 1.2 3, hole pistons
Tamiya 46 steel driveshafts, but with Spec R axles, as the pin holes in the axles are a tad smaller, therfore next to no slop, and you dont have to have the grub screw in place as the spring clip holds the pin in place :0)
Purple ali 0 degree rear hub carriers
3 Racing purple rear body supports
Roche spool
2 degree FF & FR blocks

Thats all lol

Cheers Malc
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:49 AM   #4281
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan View Post
Hi Bar
Yea car was awesome but never put a clean run in all day, hence 9th in the A, but did manage the fastest lap of the day at 15.27 :0) didnt have good finals either.

I was using
Spec R -2 lower shock towers
Spec R geard diff with yellow star Kinetic oil
Smokem chassis
3 hole steering hubs
Tamiya 1.2 3, hole pistons
Tamiya 46 steel driveshafts, but with Spec R axles, as the pin holes in the axles are a tad smaller, therfore next to no slop, and you dont have to have the grub screw in place as the spring clip holds the pin in place :0)
Purple ali 0 degree rear hub carriers
3 Racing purple rear body supports
Roche spool
2 degree FF & FR blocks

Thats all lol

Cheers Malc
thanks Malc
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:02 PM   #4282
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
+1 switched to parma bumper and the front end breakage just stopped
Any part number or where or who has these bumpers.

Thanks
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:11 AM   #4283
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i also use the Parma bumper on both my TCXs and front breakage has gone down significantly... I buy the block and cut it wider than the stock bumper.
this is the one here
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ltimate-Bumper
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:18 PM   #4284
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Default New TCX recommendations

Hey people building my TCX and read almost all pages.

Will upgrade front CVDS to Pro 4 MIP
Shock pistons
Rear Spec R gear diff

Anything else. Also kindly advise setup for a very tight / bumby and dirty track.

Tyanks
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:48 PM   #4285
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Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Hey people building my TCX and read almost all pages.

Will upgrade front CVDS to Pro 4 MIP
Shock pistons
Rear Spec R gear diff

Anything else. Also kindly advise setup for a very tight / bumby and dirty track.

Tyanks
Get Spec R V2 DCJ driveshafts, not the pro 4 MIP's. They will just be a waste of money.
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:53 PM   #4286
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Get Spec R V2 DCJ driveshafts, not the pro 4 MIP's. They will just be a waste of money.
Why? Actually I already have the parts from my spares of my old Pro 4 kit
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:23 AM   #4287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Why? Actually I already have the parts from my spares of my old Pro 4 kit
Tried MIP's in my car as I had heaps of them from the old cyclone and also the 46mm ones.. I munch the pin holes in about 2 or 3 runs.. they become way too elongated.. even in the rear when running a gear diff.. no good.

I use the spec r spring steel shafts and really like them.. heaps of others though even the steel HB ones if u want durability.
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:28 AM   #4288
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The pro 4 mip is good for 17.5 boost or 13.5 blinky, with modified motor are not strong enough

Yesterday I tested the Spec-R DCJ V2 with modified motor 5.5 T, work very well, very durable and nothing chattering
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Old 05-05-2012, 01:38 AM   #4289
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For durability in the front I have found that the Roche spool and tamiya 46mm steel shafts are hard to beat.
I tried hpi pro d steel shafts and found them to be good but then the spool outdrives would break.
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Old 05-05-2012, 02:15 AM   #4290
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I with modified engines, I always used standard spool and Pro D shafts, and I have never been broken, have always worked very well and wear was minimal, the use for over a year...

However, the Spec-R DCJ V2 look really good and can be mounted without any modifications.
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