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Old 03-16-2012, 07:06 AM   #4216
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Hi,

What sort of ride height do people run on asphalt if its bumpy ? as most of the set ups I've looked at are for smooth tracks.

I also noticed that alot of the setup sheets on the front of the car people run 2mm shim at the front and the .75mm at the rear on the arms, why is this ?

Thanks.
I usually run 5mm at least on bumpy surfaces, 5.5 at the most. There are 2 things I notice when switching the front suspension shims front to back.
#1. You shorten the wheelbase of the car, increasing overall steering when going through turns.
#2. You change steering Ackerman. In this case, increasing initial steering making it a little more twitchy.

Last edited by Realtek; 03-16-2012 at 07:07 AM. Reason: quote
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:19 PM   #4217
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Hi,

I've got 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5 deg brackets for the front (FF) I've only used the 2.0 as this seems the most popular on the setup sheets. How does it effect the car changing these. All I know is it adjusts the inboard toe.

Thanks.
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Old 03-16-2012, 03:53 PM   #4218
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Hi,

I've got 1.5, 2.0 and 2.5 deg brackets for the front (FF) I've only used the 2.0 as this seems the most popular on the setup sheets. How does it effect the car changing these. All I know is it adjusts the inboard toe.

Thanks.
Going from 2.0 to 2.5 will sweep the arms back a little. As you increase arm sweep, you decrease initial turn in while increasing mid to exit steering.
2.0 to 1.5 will do the exact opposite.
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Old 03-17-2012, 02:01 PM   #4219
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Default Exotek TCX-XS chassis

Anyone running one of these?
for ashpalt is it better than the Smokem chassis?
Thinking I might go ultra narrow chassis while wating for the TCXX to arrive, but not sure which way to go.
So any comments would be helpful, not only for me but also othet TCX users
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:39 PM   #4220
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Just got a tcx going to be running mod touring i have a 112spur what is a good pinion size to start with. thanks for any help.
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:37 AM   #4221
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I messed around with the front upper camber links this weekend.
I noticed a HUGE change in rotation by removing a 1mm shim from the inner link (lowering the inner front link).
From what I can tell the car reacts to small changes. I would think this is a good thing.

I have two questions.
If I wanted the car to be more snappy (not snap loose mind you) around 90 and 180 corners. Should I experiment with shortening the front or rear of the car? I already messed with droop and car width and pretty much just need quicker rotation and less scrub off in speed mid corner,without making the car too loose.
What other things to try? From what I can tell the xrays at my local are KILLING me through the twisties (when I am not hitting things).


Also,does a one way work in this car? Pulley or diff? Are they legal at most tracks?
I am new to the t-car deal so please forgive any redundant questions.
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Last edited by j.d.roost; 03-19-2012 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:37 AM   #4222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.d.roost View Post
I messed around with the front upper camber links this weekend.
I noticed a HUGE change in rotation by removing a 1mm shim from the inner link (lowering the inner front link).
From what I can tell the car reacts to small changes. I would think this is a good thing.

I have two questions.
If I wanted the car to be more snappy (not snap loose mind you) around 90 and 180 corners. Should I experiment with shortening the front or rear of the car? I already messed with droop and car width and pretty much just need quicker rotation and less scrub off in speed mid corner,without making the car too loose.
What other things to try? From what I can tell the xrays at my local are KILLING me through the twisties (when I am not hitting things).


Also,does a one way work in this car? Pulley or diff? Are they legal at most tracks?
I am new to the t-car deal so please forgive and redundant questions.
you could try a little toe out on the front, maybe 1mm over all, but remember this will give you initial turn in but less to mid and exit speed, or try a 2.5 bar at the rear instead of the 3 degree stock one.

Cheers Malc
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:12 AM   #4223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry_Hughes View Post
Anyone running one of these?
for ashpalt is it better than the Smokem chassis?
Thinking I might go ultra narrow chassis while wating for the TCXX to arrive, but not sure which way to go.
So any comments would be helpful, not only for me but also othet TCX users
Smokem chassis is spot on....one of the best cuts. Exoteks are okay.
Smokem will have a ton of traction.
I would go with a Smokem or wait on the TCXX.
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Old 03-19-2012, 10:23 AM   #4224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.d.roost View Post
I messed around with the front upper camber links this weekend.
I noticed a HUGE change in rotation by removing a 1mm shim from the inner link (lowering the inner front link).
From what I can tell the car reacts to small changes. I would think this is a good thing.

I have two questions.
If I wanted the car to be more snappy (not snap loose mind you) around 90 and 180 corners. Should I experiment with shortening the front or rear of the car? I already messed with droop and car width and pretty much just need quicker rotation and less scrub off in speed mid corner,without making the car too loose.
What other things to try? From what I can tell the xrays at my local are KILLING me through the twisties (when I am not hitting things).


Also,does a one way work in this car? Pulley or diff? Are they legal at most tracks?
I am new to the t-car deal so please forgive any redundant questions.
First thing i would suggest is that move the front suspension arms to the front by moving the shims on the hinge pins. I would not suggest just to shorten the front camber link as it would take away overall front grip unless you try to make it balanced again by making other adjustments. However, the outter camber link position on the bulkhead is not a bad idea if you can balance it with other adjustments such as hinge pin width, shock positions, etc. We can reduce the tire heat a lot by using the outter hole.

For the problem you have, it would depnds if it's coming into the corner or coming out but i would try the shorter "rear" camber links but stay out side hole on the rear hubs. So outer hole on the rear bulkheads and outer hole on the rear hubs.

You can also remove the aluminum plate on the steering post (the one that is conncting side by side) to get some extra flex on the front. It should give you some more overall steering.

Hope it helps.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:01 PM   #4225
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Does anyone run the front Dampers Max Soft in the front with a Stiff Spring?
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:25 PM   #4226
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Tony Phalen drove a Hot Bodies TCX this last weekend when he won Champion in the Vintage Trans Am class at the 2012 ROAR Carpet Nationals. Tony used a Novak Edge ESC and Novak Ballistic 25.5 motor. He painted a 1969 Camaro Z28 body light blue and orange and the body won 2nd place in the Concourse.


Keep your eyes open for the article that Tony is writing about VTA for RC Driver Magazine. Also I wish Tony the best of luck in getting a VTA Race Club started at his local track in Southern California.
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Old 03-19-2012, 03:13 PM   #4227
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Originally Posted by Barry_Hughes View Post
Anyone running one of these?
for ashpalt is it better than the Smokem chassis?
Thinking I might go ultra narrow chassis while wating for the TCXX to arrive, but not sure which way to go.
So any comments would be helpful, not only for me but also othet TCX users
Hi Barry
Im running the Smokem chassis now, but not tried it out doors yet, but was a vast improvement on the wide TCX chassis
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:47 AM   #4228
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What is the advantage/disadvantage to the way the hing pins are mounted (one piece front and rear mounts) as to the newer cars (x-ray,6.1,top) with the individual f/r/l/r. Why did most everyone else do away with this style of mounting? Is this just older technology or is there a specific reason that hpi uses it?
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:15 AM   #4229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.d.roost View Post
What is the advantage/disadvantage to the way the hing pins are mounted (one piece front and rear mounts) as to the newer cars (x-ray,6.1,top) with the individual f/r/l/r. Why did most everyone else do away with this style of mounting? Is this just older technology or is there a specific reason that hpi still uses it?
Really the old solution is that the cars you mentioned (6.1 really old ...) Tamiya, Yokomo and HB using pivot system, allows the suspension to be released from bulkheads and offers the possibility of various combinations like this:

Hot Bodies TCX-foto0183.jpg
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:04 AM   #4230
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http://www.arrowmax-rc.com/index.php...roducts_id=459

I assume the arrowmax ecs will work with the longer diff cups (or a locked one way).
Has anyone ordered from them...and how long does it usually take for the parts to come in?
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