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Old 01-01-2012, 08:01 AM   #3991
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Hi Guys, few questions if someone could help me out.

what effect would it have on the car going from the 1.5mm spacers under all blocks to 0mm all round front and rear?

dcj driveshafts effects in 13.5/10.5 class?

Thanks R
in theory, the less you have spacer, the more the car roll in the corner
in theory, it will give more grip
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Old 01-01-2012, 04:37 PM   #3992
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Originally Posted by prodriver View Post
Hi Guys, few questions if someone could help me out.

what effect would it have on the car going from the 1.5mm spacers under all blocks to 0mm all round front and rear?

dcj driveshafts effects in 13.5/10.5 class?

Thanks R
The car is ging to roll A LOT more, have loads more grip and lose all of its corner speed. Its not the way to go about setting this car up. This should be one of the last things to change, and i dont recommend going below 1.5mm. I used 1mm at TITC last year and that was simply to stop the car traction rolling. The car felt terrible on track, had so much understeer but at least it didnt flip

Currently I have my car setup with 2mm shims under all blocks and the car has never been better. Sits megga flat, super reactive, more steering and a corner speed monster. The only downfall is tyre wear is worse. But if its faster I can live with that

Cant comment on driveshafts as ive never had an issue with the standard design

Cheers,

Antoni
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:41 PM   #3993
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Whats a good starting FDR for 17.5 blinky class, on a 80x40 track? Thanks
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:15 PM   #3994
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Whats a good starting FDR for 17.5 blinky class, on a 80x40 track? Thanks
Try 4.2-4.0 as a starting point. Temp and go from there.
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Old 01-02-2012, 09:20 PM   #3995
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Default New chassis

Hi

Exotek is out with a new flex chassis and top plate , any ideas of that against the narrow HB chassis ??

regards Andy
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:38 AM   #3996
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
The car is ging to roll A LOT more, have loads more grip and lose all of its corner speed. Its not the way to go about setting this car up. This should be one of the last things to change, and i dont recommend going below 1.5mm. I used 1mm at TITC last year and that was simply to stop the car traction rolling. The car felt terrible on track, had so much understeer but at least it didnt flip

Currently I have my car setup with 2mm shims under all blocks and the car has never been better. Sits megga flat, super reactive, more steering and a corner speed monster. The only downfall is tyre wear is worse. But if its faster I can live with that


Antoni
my previous post on the lowered shock towers rolled to much. Would using 2mm help and going back to 2 hole(increase pack) pistons remedy the rolling problem in theory...?

Last edited by goots; 01-03-2012 at 04:01 AM.
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Old 01-03-2012, 05:53 AM   #3997
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my previous post on the lowered shock towers rolled to much. Would using 2mm help and going back to 2 hole(increase pack) pistons remedy the rolling problem in theory...?
You can try 2mm and see what you think, i had to change a few other things to get the car to work but overall it does seem better. I wouldnt recommend the piston change, try a slightly harder spring rate all round
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:37 PM   #3998
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Funny I just ordered a MI4CX....just to test setups...
but I will say my HB TCX is the best car I've ever had...and for those who know me...I've tried them all.

the TCX is the most stable and predictable car to drive.
Responds to the slightest changes (good in my book)
you won't need much as far as option parts.
steel front bones. is a must.
and HPI spring set.
that is all you'll need for a starting base.
Coming from RDX PHi '09.
Considering buying this car.
Living in Europe, racing on outdoor tracks tarmac/asphalt, low to medium grip.
Is this car any good for stock racing?

You say needed is:
- steel front bones. is a must.
WHAT PART NUMBER, WERE TO GET IT?
- and HPI spring set.
WHICH ONES, WHERE TO GET THEM?
- what servo best to use? (sold mine). I ask because HB is very specific about the measurements, see page 5 of the manual.
- shock pistons. In the kit is 2 holes. I looked at a lot of setupsheets and see that everybody uses 3 holes. So they would be needed too.
- geardiff. Still not in the kit? Which one to buy? Spec-R?
- spurs. In the kit is 115T 64DP. Want to use the car in stock racing with 48DP spurs between 75T and 90T. Do these exist for this car? If so, which ones, brand name and so on. So, needed too.
- pinions for this car? Any preferences, again ofcourse 48DP. Needed too.
- as to springs: in the kit is 6544 gold front and 6543 silver rear. Many people use 6543 silver front and 6542 blue. Some use 6548 pink front and 6542 blue. A bit confusing for me because I am used to measuring in lbs. What are these in lbs?
I presume the higher the number the harder the spring?
Most likely knowing that usually front is used a somewhat harder spring.
If so than 6543 front and 6542 rear would still be front a bit harder than rear but overall somewhat softer. So I would buy me the 6542 blue to make that combination.

So as I see it there is more needed than suggested.

Would be nice to get input from you TCX guys.

I am probably going to choose between TCX and T3 '12. Have to admit that the documentation, support and forum are better than any other brand. Also parts are easier to purchase. And parts are cheaper!
TCX came in the picture because to me it looks like a dream. But that really doesn't count, now does it. And the argument of wanting something else than a lot of other people is also not really valid. A big nono could be that in stockracing it isn't used that much.
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:02 PM   #3999
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Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Coming from RDX PHi '09.
Considering buying this car.
Living in Europe, racing on outdoor tracks tarmac/asphalt, low to medium grip.
Is this car any good for stock racing?

You say needed is:
- steel front bones. is a must.
WHAT PART NUMBER, WERE TO GET IT?
- and HPI spring set.
WHICH ONES, WHERE TO GET THEM?
- what servo best to use? (sold mine). I ask because HB is very specific about the measurements, see page 5 of the manual.
- shock pistons. In the kit is 2 holes. I looked at a lot of setupsheets and see that everybody uses 3 holes. So they would be needed too.
- geardiff. Still not in the kit? Which one to buy? Spec-R?
- spurs. In the kit is 115T 64DP. Want to use the car in stock racing with 48DP spurs between 75T and 90T. Do these exist for this car? If so, which ones, brand name and so on. So, needed too.
- pinions for this car? Any preferences, again ofcourse 48DP. Needed too.
- as to springs: in the kit is 6544 gold front and 6543 silver rear. Many people use 6543 silver front and 6542 blue. Some use 6548 pink front and 6542 blue. A bit confusing for me because I am used to measuring in lbs. What are these in lbs?
I presume the higher the number the harder the spring?
Most likely knowing that usually front is used a somewhat harder spring.
If so than 6543 front and 6542 rear would still be front a bit harder than rear but overall somewhat softer. So I would buy me the 6542 blue to make that combination.

So as I see it there is more needed than suggested.

Would be nice to get input from you TCX guys.

I am probably going to choose between TCX and T3 '12. Have to admit that the documentation, support and forum are better than any other brand. Also parts are easier to purchase. And parts are cheaper!
TCX came in the picture because to me it looks like a dream. But that really doesn't count, now does it. And the argument of wanting something else than a lot of other people is also not really valid. A big nono could be that in stockracing it isn't used that much.
I run Tamiya 3 hole TRF pistons in mine and an X-ray 84 tooth 48dp spur. You can only attach the spur with 2 screws but mine has been in for a year with no problems. I race 13.5 & 17.5 boosted
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:54 PM   #4000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Coming from RDX PHi '09.
Considering buying this car.
Living in Europe, racing on outdoor tracks tarmac/asphalt, low to medium grip.
Is this car any good for stock racing?

You say needed is:
- steel front bones. is a must.
WHAT PART NUMBER, WERE TO GET IT?
68794 or 88914 will work. Other options are made by Exotek and Spec-R. Even the very old HPI Pro4 steel bones will work but only with the steel spool cups. You can buy parts from HB, TQ racing, Speetech, EGR Mart/Spec-R
- and HPI spring set.
WHICH ONES, WHERE TO GET THEM?
If you want them as a set it is 75175. Idividually they are:
#6542 - 14x25x1.4mm 6 coils (blue / 2pcs) 273 gf/mm
#6543 - 14x25x1.5mm 6.5 coils (silver / 2pcs)(Kit Part) 302 gf/mm
#6544 - 14x25x1.5mm 6 coils (gold / 2pcs)(Kit Part) 340 gf/mm
#6545 - 14x25x1.4mm 5.75 coils (white / 2pcs) 363 gf/mm
#6546 - 14x25x1.4mm 5.5 coils (yellow / 2pcs) 388 gf/mm
#6547 - 14x25x1.5mm 5.25 coils (red / 2pcs) 400 gf/mm
#6548 - 14x25x1.5mm 6.25 coils (pink / 2pcs) 320 gf/mm

You can get these at pretty much all online stores. Most people (including other TC brands) use silver and pink. HPI springs are popular because they are made very well and spaced in small increments. Other option is the Hara HB progressive springs. They have a slightly smaller diameter but still fit

- what servo best to use? (sold mine). I ask because HB is very specific about the measurements, see page 5 of the manual.
You can use any servo but a low profile one is preferable such as futaba S9551 or KO 2413. It all depends on how big your RX and ESC are. Otherwise, mount your RX on top of your servo - its up to you
- shock pistons. In the kit is 2 holes. I looked at a lot of setupsheets and see that everybody uses 3 holes. So they would be needed too.
Yes 3 Holes and around 450CST oil is what most people use now for asphalt outdoor stock/mod
- geardiff. Still not in the kit? Which one to buy? Spec-R?
Spec R TCX gear diff is what you want. It is a bit hit and miss with quality and you need to be carefull with sanding the gears. Most people buy 2 or 3 sets because of the random quality. Get lots of spare internal gears. I have seen other options with heavily modified Xray and Capricorn gear diffs. When using a gear diff don't forget to get the dogbone blades. The HB blades are crap and very expensive. You can get some from Spec-R, 3-racing or ream out some associated blades. Many shops sell Spec-R parts but I get it from EGR Mart.
- spurs. In the kit is 115T 64DP. Want to use the car in stock racing with 48DP spurs between 75T and 90T. Do these exist for this car? If so, which ones, brand name and so on. So, needed too.
you can use pretty much all brands. I have tried Kimbrough,RW, Robinson Racing and Xenon. I still think Xenon make the best spurs which is also the same brand as the kit spur.
- pinions for this car? Any preferences, again ofcourse 48DP. Needed too.
- as to springs: in the kit is 6544 gold front and 6543 silver rear. Many people use 6543 silver front and 6542 blue. Some use 6548 pink front and 6542 blue. A bit confusing for me because I am used to measuring in lbs. What are these in lbs?
I presume the higher the number the harder the spring?
Most likely knowing that usually front is used a somewhat harder spring.
If so than 6543 front and 6542 rear would still be front a bit harder than rear but overall somewhat softer. So I would buy me the 6542 blue to make that combination.

So as I see it there is more needed than suggested.
There is always more to any chassis. Aftermarket options are available for all brands of chassis. It's up to you. Just get the kit and the recommended parts and drive it! Do some more research before trying other things such as split blocks, hubs and top/lower deck options

Would be nice to get input from you TCX guys.

I am probably going to choose between TCX and T3 '12. Have to admit that the documentation, support and forum are better than any other brand. Also parts are easier to purchase. And parts are cheaper!
TCX came in the picture because to me it looks like a dream. But that really doesn't count, now does it. And the argument of wanting something else than a lot of other people is also not really valid. A big nono could be that in stockracing it isn't used that much.
All of the other HB/HPI options can be found here
http://www.hpieurope.com/options.php...n&partNo=68700
Surprised that you have not seen this if you have read the manual and have the setup sheets. Good luck.
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Old 01-04-2012, 01:49 AM   #4001
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All of the other HB/HPI options can be found here
http://www.hpieurope.com/options.php...n&partNo=68700
Surprised that you have not seen this if you have read the manual and have the setup sheets. Good luck.
SEEN THAT, BUT CAN'T ORDER FROM IT
Thanks for the input.
But decided already to not go with HB TCX. To much of a hassle.
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Old 01-04-2012, 11:49 AM   #4002
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That's great help Ooj!!
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:41 PM   #4003
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SEEN THAT, BUT CAN'T ORDER FROM IT
Thanks for the input.
But decided already to not go with HB TCX. To much of a hassle.
next time please read thru all the threads...use the search function...
all the answers are in this thread.

good luck with whatever you go with.
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:05 PM   #4004
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Is it just me, or can no one else find the new chassis available anywere? I need to get a couple for my cars for TITC. I cant even find it available in Europe or the UK.
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Old 01-04-2012, 08:02 PM   #4005
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Is it just me, or can no one else find the new chassis available anywere? I need to get a couple for my cars for TITC. I cant even find it available in Europe or the UK.
Same here. I was looking everywhere but couldn't find it. I ended up getting the revised Smokem deck. Can't wait to try it out... well once I get a new motor mount... Have no idea what I hit to bend that thing!
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