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Old 11-22-2011, 01:59 AM   #3871
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Just picked up a second hand one with quite alot of extra's including the new thinner chassis, top deck and 3 hole steering hubs.

What chassis/top deck is best for low traction asphalt ?

Standard chassis is always the fastest for me. I have not tried the new one yet, or the Sneaky German chassis but i cant see them being that much better if at all. The kit top deck is fine.

Anyone got a good base set up for low traction asphalt ?

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/hotb...tBodiesTCX.htm
Use Ryan Makers basic setup, We pretty much still use this setup but are refining it more.
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Hi

Can you please tell what parts is needed ?

best regards

Andy
Gear diff and Steel front driveshafts are definatly the most important 2
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:39 AM   #3872
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S.A.W,

There actually is 2 other options out there for front dog bones. I am using the HPI Pro4 46mm steel dogbones. Since they are a discontinued item, they should be cheap to get if you can find them. Only problem is that the pin is slightly longer so they won't fit into the POM spool cups without minor filing. They work great on the steel cups though. The other option is the Spec-R spring steel universals. They are very nicely made with X-Ray style flat spots on the axle pin as well as a flush retaining clip for extra security. The axles also have 4 holes so you can rotate them when the first set wears out.

Antoni,

I noticed your setup and Ryan's are quite similar albeit the rear end. You go for silver springs and lighter gear diff oil whereas Ryan has the harder pink springs and heavier gear diff oil. In the end are they fairly similar in terms on/off power steering?
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Old 11-22-2011, 05:53 AM   #3873
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Antoni,

I noticed your setup and Ryan's are quite similar albeit the rear end. You go for silver springs and lighter gear diff oil whereas Ryan has the harder pink springs and heavier gear diff oil. In the end are they fairly similar in terms on/off power steering?
It really is track dependant, but now we are both using almost the same setup. The different springs and oil combo's give a different feel, a softer rear spring wil give more low speed rotation (a heavier diff will also do this), and same for a harder rear spring and light oil (more stable). Guess you just have to test and see what you prefer, everyone drives different. Although Ryan has been stealing my idea's of late
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:52 AM   #3874
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Are the droop figures on the setup sheets measured using droop blocks/gauge ?

5000cst oil seems very thick, I normally use 700-2000 ?

How does it effect the car changing the shim thickness on the sway bar linkage ?

Thanks.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:00 AM   #3875
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Default New parts

My latest post with some new parts I installed on my TCX

JD RACING BLOG
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:14 AM   #3876
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Are the droop figures on the setup sheets measured using droop blocks/gauge ?

5000cst oil seems very thick, I normally use 700-2000 ?

How does it effect the car changing the shim thickness on the sway bar linkage ?

Thanks.
The droop figures in the manual are measured with droop blocks to the underside of the arms where the outer hinge pin sits and should be in the range of 4.5-6.5mm. However, these days it is more popular to use digital calipers to measure from the bottom of the chassis to the centre of the outer hinge pin. These should be in the range of 8-10mm. The other way to measure which I am seeming to prefer now is from the bottom of the chassis to the top of the axle (http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=583) as it allows the calipers to rest on the top of the axle. These measurements range from 24mm-26mm. Antoni's measurements are true droop measurements (2-3mm) which can be done by measuring how many millimeters it takes the chassis to lift before the tyres lose contact with the setup board.

As for diff oil like Antoni said, the rear springs and oil combos are a personal preference. I am going to be testing with Pink, Silver, Hara black, Hara red, Hara purple and 1000, 1300, 2000 oil combos in the next few weeks.

The thickness of the shims on the sway bar holder is a fine tuning aid for the angle of the sway bar holder. Angle also fine tunes the stiffness of the bar. Most people try to run it as vertical as possible but when you change the wheel base it will also affect the angle of the standard sway bar holder. if you go larger than 2mm as the gap, you should use a longer ball stud as the standard one is not that big.
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:31 AM   #3877
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My latest post with some new parts I installed on my TCX

JD RACING BLOG
Let us know what you find with the new knuckles Keen to see how they compare to the Tamiya ones I use now. Also if you can, see if the dcj driveshafts produce faster laptimes that the standard units.

Would be very keen to hear your observations
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:37 AM   #3878
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AWESOME PHOTO's =)
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:48 AM   #3879
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Originally Posted by Ooj View Post
The droop figures in the manual are measured with droop blocks to the underside of the arms where the outer hinge pin sits and should be in the range of 4.5-6.5mm. However, these days it is more popular to use digital calipers to measure from the bottom of the chassis to the centre of the outer hinge pin. These should be in the range of 8-10mm. The other way to measure which I am seeming to prefer now is from the bottom of the chassis to the top of the axle (http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=583) as it allows the calipers to rest on the top of the axle. These measurements range from 24mm-26mm. Antoni's measurements are true droop measurements (2-3mm) which can be done by measuring how many millimeters it takes the chassis to lift before the tyres lose contact with the setup board.

As for diff oil like Antoni said, the rear springs and oil combos are a personal preference. I am going to be testing with Pink, Silver, Hara black, Hara red, Hara purple and 1000, 1300, 2000 oil combos in the next few weeks.

The thickness of the shims on the sway bar holder is a fine tuning aid for the angle of the sway bar holder. Angle also fine tunes the stiffness of the bar. Most people try to run it as vertical as possible but when you change the wheel base it will also affect the angle of the standard sway bar holder. if you go larger than 2mm as the gap, you should use a longer ball stud as the standard one is not that big.
Thankyou.

I always measure droop using blocks and on the outer of the arm but on some setup sheets it says droop of 8mm and wasn't sure if this was measured on blocks or the other way as it seemed alot.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:55 AM   #3880
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Set-up help PLEASE!!!!!!!!!
Just built the car and raced it last night, I really like it. Used box set up. Car is very loose in the rear on power. Steering is realy good. What on earth do i do to get the back of this car planted???????? Please help! I run no timeing 13.5 rubber on carpet.

Last edited by Horth Racing; 11-24-2011 at 04:03 AM.
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:21 AM   #3881
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What no one has any advice?
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:37 AM   #3882
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What no one has any advice?
Here you can find good carpet setup.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/hotb...tBodiesTCX.htm
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:34 PM   #3883
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Thank you AGNO!
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:25 AM   #3884
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Any one now if hot Bodies have wheel wasers?
Like this?
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:50 AM   #3885
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Hi,

This setup http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/hotb...104/index.html shows wheel spacers, do these go between the hub and wheel

A 4mm wheel hub with 1mm spacer, isn't that just the same as using a 5mm wheel hub

When using the 3rd hole on the newer knuckles how many shims do I need on the ackerman ?

Thanks.

Last edited by S.A.W; 11-26-2011 at 12:04 PM.
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