R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-23-2011, 12:22 PM   #3676
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 1,832
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag88 View Post
Korey, it sounds like we're saying the same thing. Would you agree ?
If so, then with a 1.5 degree FF block and a +1 degree FR block any guess as to how the .5 degee remaining angle is divided ? 1/2 on a side or 1/4 degree on a side ?
Thanks.
I find all of this a bit confusing. I would think that the remaining .5 degree would be split equally (.25 degree) per side. As I have not actually measured the parts...it is only a educated guess.

I believe .7mm or .8mm is equal to 1 degree so if you have the blocks can you measure to clarify?

Thanks.

Art
__________________
Team Powers, SMC ( www.smc-racing.com the only place to order your batteries online.), Awesomatix, Gonzo Paints, BN Racing
www.TeamPowersUSA.com

"Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery."
Advil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 01:40 PM   #3677
Tech Elite
 
Fred Hubbard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Inglewood, CA
Posts: 2,701
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Hi Hiro, Korey and Art
__________________
Goodwine Racing - RC America - XRAY - HUDY - Sanwa - Motiv - GravityRC - BN Racing
Fred Hubbard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 03:38 PM   #3678
Tech Master
 
jag88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,075
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Advil View Post
I find all of this a bit confusing. I would think that the remaining .5 degree would be split equally (.25 degree) per side. As I have not actually measured the parts...it is only a educated guess.

I believe .7mm or .8mm is equal to 1 degree so if you have the blocks can you measure to clarify?

Thanks.

Art

Yea, I'm confused too. I'm sorry I don't have the blocks, actually I was hoping someone could clarify this before I bought them. Degrees or millimeters and resultant angles ... I'm sure someone will figure it out.
jag88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 07:02 PM   #3679
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 990
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Here you go again. lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Hi jag88,

I think the number "0.5+" and "1.0+" on the new FR/RF blocks are for "mm" not for degrees. So 0.5+ is simply 0.5mm wider than the stock block and 1.0+ is 1.0mm wider.

The combo "1.0+" FR w/1.5deg FF that you mentioned is not the same as the 1.5deg blocks combo as the hinge pin width (center to center)on the "1.0+" block is 43mm while the 1.5deg block is 44mm. If you need to widen the hinge pins to 44mm, you still need to use the 1.5deg block on FR. We are also making wider than "1.0+" so we can just simply throw it in without any modification.

Hope it helps.
Hi-LowBlow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 07:03 PM   #3680
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 990
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
Hi Hiro, Korey and Art
Hi Fred!
Hi-LowBlow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 07:17 PM   #3681
Tech Master
 
jag88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,075
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Here you go again. lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Hi jag88,

I think the number "0.5+" and "1.0+" on the new FR/RF blocks are for "mm" not for degrees. So 0.5+ is simply 0.5mm wider than the stock block and 1.0+ is 1.0mm wider.

The combo "1.0+" FR w/1.5deg FF that you mentioned is not the same as the 1.5deg blocks combo as the hinge pin width (center to center)on the "1.0+" block is 43mm while the 1.5deg block is 44mm. If you need to widen the hinge pins to 44mm, you still need to use the 1.5deg block on FR. We are also making wider than "1.0+" so we can just simply throw it in without any modification.

Hope it helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
As far as I know, they are rated in additional degrees. Think of the normal FR and RF blocks as "0". using a +1 deg block will make it the same as a 1 deg toe block. They just don't require any grinding to install, which is pretty neato.

-Korey

lol ... sorry Hiro, but when the two great 'HotBodies experts' are contradicting each other then it's time to step back and wait ... lol
Thanks.
jag88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 07:29 PM   #3682
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,083
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

To be perfectly clear, I didn't say what I said was absolute fact... Just that as far as I know, they were rated in what would be equivalent to the degrees on a block. I don't have my equipment with me where I live during school, so I can't measure and do some math to confirm for you. Hiro would most likely know more than myself, because he is directly involved in research and development. It's honestly just something I have never thought or worried about when it comes to tuning the car, so I don't have a for sure answer to give everyone.

As far as how much toe on each side, I'm pretty sure if the toe block says 3 deg, its 3 deg per side. A quick check would be to look at 3 deg of camber, then compare that to 3 degrees of rear toe. If it were truly only 1.5 per side, the wheels wouldn't look so aggressively toed in like they normally are. But again, I don't have any of my equipment to confirm that.

Hopefully that clears some things up, or helps some.

-Korey
__________________
Apex RC - Prospec America - LRP - Roche RC USA - Awesomatix USA - Protoform - AVID - Xenon - Xpert - Sanwa - Sweep - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 07:36 PM   #3683
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 990
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Sorry for the confusion. But +1 FR block is 43.00mm which is 1mm wider than the stock one. "+1" is not rated for degree, it's simply 1mm wider.

Thanks.
Hi-LowBlow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 06:33 AM   #3684
Tech Master
 
jag88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,075
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
To be perfectly clear, I didn't say what I said was absolute fact... Just that as far as I know, they were rated in what would be equivalent to the degrees on a block. I don't have my equipment with me where I live during school, so I can't measure and do some math to confirm for you. Hiro would most likely know more than myself, because he is directly involved in research and development. It's honestly just something I have never thought or worried about when it comes to tuning the car, so I don't have a for sure answer to give everyone.

As far as how much toe on each side, I'm pretty sure if the toe block says 3 deg, its 3 deg per side. A quick check would be to look at 3 deg of camber, then compare that to 3 degrees of rear toe. If it were truly only 1.5 per side, the wheels wouldn't look so aggressively toed in like they normally are. But again, I don't have any of my equipment to confirm that.

Hopefully that clears some things up, or helps some.

-Korey
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Sorry for the confusion. But +1 FR block is 43.00mm which is 1mm wider than the stock one. "+1" is not rated for degree, it's simply 1mm wider.

Thanks.


Thanks guys, the world is right again ..... lol
jag88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 03:02 PM   #3685
Tech Master
 
omarwashington's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Kenmore, WA
Posts: 1,078
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by goots View Post
How heavy diff oil is everyone putting in their gear diffs?
gear diff? I thought it only had ball diff
__________________
RCCARS!
omarwashington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 05:19 PM   #3686
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,083
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Gear diffs are made by a company called Spec-R. It's an aftermarket option that some people like. The ball diff that comes in the car is very good, and I still say everyone should try it before moving to a gear diff .

-Korey
__________________
Apex RC - Prospec America - LRP - Roche RC USA - Awesomatix USA - Protoform - AVID - Xenon - Xpert - Sanwa - Sweep - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 09:29 PM   #3687
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,238
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Gear diffs are made by a company called Spec-R. It's an aftermarket option that some people like. The ball diff that comes in the car is very good, and I still say everyone should try it before moving to a gear diff .

-Korey
I second that. The pro spec diff in the TC was just perfect. Now that I have the TCX im gnna compare laptimes and handling ball vs gear w/ 1k n 3k oil.
To be honest I dont know how a gear diff can be any better than a well built ball diff.

I also have been reading some posts in the Spec R gear diff review thread and honestly it looks like more maintenance than a ball diff. Oil leaks and stripping gears are my concern.
goots is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 09:39 PM   #3688
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,856
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Talking

Ball diff with ceramic balls and loctite last forever, weigh less, and can handle a lot more power than gear diffs ! I guess manufacturers wanted to sell something different than ball diffs, and got some to switch, but not me ..

.
bertrandsv87 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 09:53 PM   #3689
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 723
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to DJGonzo69
Default

I've had my gear diff on the rear first & a spool on the front since May. Did not have any issues with gears. I even bought an exta pair of gears since Ive heard of people stripping the gears. They are still in the package. I used Associated 80wt which is close to 1000cst. I felt the rear tracked better on the start compared to my ball diff. Im not the best when builing the ball diff, so the gear diff helped alot in this area. About 2 months later I picked up a gear diff for the front. I'm using 500K Kyosho oil. I noticed alot of turn in once I switched to the gear diff on the front. I ranthe gear diffs through 17.5 & Mod 5.5 motors. About 2 weeks ago was the first time I opened up my rear gear diff & added alittle bit of oil. Did not see any wear on the gears. So Im happy with it. So my own experience is very little maintenance. I'm picking up a second set for my new TCX.
__________________
|XRAY|RCAmerica|Hobbywing|KO PROPO|Team Scream Motors|Gonzo PaintWorX|
DJGonzo69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 04:10 AM   #3690
Tech Rookie
 
Baldyno5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
Smile

Subaru Impeza Type C body is now available in UK from Demon Power Products.
Baldyno5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:47 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net