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Old 07-22-2011, 03:41 PM   #3301
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Sorry Chris,

I totally missed this post. Sorry it's taken me a while to notice it .

Overall length for stock shock towers is usually about 64.5mm. With the lowerered towers, I like 63.5 to 64.0mm. I know it may seem like a very small difference, but it does change how the car drives. I think it's important to measure your shocks . The car will generally feel a little more "stuck" with a slightly shorter shock. You can also tune the balance of the car slightly as well. Sometimes I run 63.5 in the front, and 64.0-64.5mm in the rear to get the rear end to rotate a little more.

I personally use Tamiya steering knuckles right now. I honestly don't see the chatter as a terrible thing. I usually try not to turn the wheel that much anyway. Something to think about is how differently the car reacts when it is unload (up in the air on a car stand) in comparison to how it is loaded (while on the ground driving). It usually won't chatter NEARLY as much on the track.

The FF suspension blocks control the amount of arm sweep in the front end. Arm sweep changes a few things in the geometry like ackerman, wheelbase, and inboard toe all at the same time. I've found the more arm sweep you run, the more steering the car will have right at the apex of the corner. Less arm sweep generally gives more steering into the corner, but less going through the middle and exit.

Hope that helps!

-Korey
What Korey is saying is true. I often play with the shock lengths and it does make a small but noticable difference I run 63.5 in the front and 64.5 in the rear and that allows the rear to rotate. This is diffinitely noticable at WestCoast Raceway where the traction levels are more than carpet

Eric
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Old 07-23-2011, 01:24 PM   #3302
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Spec-R gear diffs, TCX swing shaft, 2mm down shock towers, and parts are re-stocked at TQ RC RACING.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...t.asp?s_sort=4

FYI, Thanks.
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Old 07-23-2011, 03:51 PM   #3303
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I noticed that sometimes Atsuchi Hara runs cone washers and screws in the front and back four holes on the top deck - does this make the top deck flex less to just make it look nice?

Here is the picture I am talking about from the Reedy Race 2011;

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/hotb...011/index.html
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:22 AM   #3304
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Originally Posted by scoyle View Post
I noticed that sometimes Atsuchi Hara runs cone washers and screws in the front and back four holes on the top deck - does this make the top deck flex less to just make it look nice?

Here is the picture I am talking about from the Reedy Race 2011;

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/hotb...011/index.html
Its for more flex. But Hara runs those to slightly soften the 2.5mm top deck
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:29 AM   #3305
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Its for more flex. But Hara runs those to slightly soften the 2.5mm top deck
so i guess that's perferable to running less screws?
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Old 07-24-2011, 09:32 AM   #3306
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so i guess that's perferable to running less screws?
Its a more subtle change, so its still stiffer than std screws and top deck. I remember Hara saying that 2.5mm top deck was just too stiff with the standard screws so that was his comprimize I guess
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Old 07-24-2011, 11:24 AM   #3307
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Well I am killing time at the denver airport so I thought I would comment on how the tamiya drivetrain with the type II diff went. The diff with oil is about 19.6 grams, and is super true. The hardest part of the swap was machining the tamiya diff outdrive cup reinforcement and shimming the diffs to align properly with the belts(about 2mm total width). Overall worth it considering at the time I built the car the Spec R diff was unavailable and the new diff weighs about 6.5 grams less than the spec r (advertized weight), and the tam front spool assy is about 5 grams less than the factory spool assy(the HB pom outdrives could take more weight off of the stock assy however). The tam diff and front pulley easily went from the factory white to black with the aid of some RIT fabric dye. The diff and spool swap was accompanied by tam steel 46mm driveshafts and 44 rear al. Track testing will tell if this is actually worth the expense. I have a feeling the spec R HB diff with aluminum outdrives would be a better solution for the cost
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:51 AM   #3308
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Its a more subtle change, so its still stiffer than std screws and top deck. I remember Hara saying that 2.5mm top deck was just too stiff with the standard screws so that was his comprimize I guess
So it's definitely less grip?... I was thinking that the cone washer covering more surface area would cause less flex - I haven't tried it on the track yet but it does look nice
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Old 07-25-2011, 09:29 AM   #3309
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Originally Posted by scoyle View Post
So it's definitely less grip?... I was thinking that the cone washer covering more surface area would cause less flex - I haven't tried it on the track yet but it does look nice
It puts less pressure on the top deck compared to a button head screw. The screw dosent bite in as hard
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:16 AM   #3310
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It puts less pressure on the top deck compared to a button head screw. The screw dosent bite in as hard
Ah that makes sense now... thanks.
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:09 AM   #3311
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Default cyclone lipo 2nd deck conversion kit 67695

I have a old cyclone AME edition. The SMC 5200 lipo cannot be fit on the chassis as the stock 2nd deck is in the way. Does the 2nd deck converstion kit 67695 solve the problem? Does the 67695 kit work with the AME edition?
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:53 AM   #3312
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Originally Posted by raceblast View Post
I have a old cyclone AME edition. The SMC 5200 lipo cannot be fit on the chassis as the stock 2nd deck is in the way. Does the 2nd deck converstion kit 67695 solve the problem? Does the 67695 kit work with the AME edition?
I fit the same battery in the old car as you are trying..but need to dremal the middle block like on most large lipos.. the deck does not get in the way on mine.. dont like how the 67695 made the car handle.. like it was tweaked..
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:00 AM   #3313
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This question has probably been asked already somewhere along this thread... But how close are the TC and TCX related? (just picked up a used TC, and there's really no activity going on in the cyclone thread).

Thanks guys
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:05 PM   #3314
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Hi guys!

Did you see that: http://youtu.be/WiT_qIgLbQU ?

Andy is very impressive and his car too!!!

Does somebody have his setup for wet driving?

The setup could contain very interesting low-grip solutions...
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Old 07-27-2011, 04:36 PM   #3315
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Man. Screw all this business of treating tracks and saucing tires. That looks like serious fun.

-Mike
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