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Old 07-17-2011, 12:46 PM   #3286
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Originally Posted by luic View Post
Ok, thank you very much, i see is not dificult to make.
You mount the TCX gear diff ? , and you test in track, some problems, tricks?

The Schumacher diff is 29.2mm wide, bearing to bearing, the TC are 27.8, not to be

Regards, Luis C.
Yes, I had the TCX diff in - the biggest thing is the different bearings, you need then or else you get a boatload of drag and wobble in the diff.... I tried it quickly and I liked it, but pulled it out after 2 runs when I realized the car was slower
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:48 PM   #3287
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which brand of diff oil do you guys use for your gear diffs??

Last edited by littlealex; 07-17-2011 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 07-17-2011, 07:21 PM   #3288
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I use losi right now
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Old 07-17-2011, 08:52 PM   #3289
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I used xray in the front - since they go to 300k and above
Losi in the rear
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Old 07-17-2011, 08:54 PM   #3290
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When using the gear diff in the front I have heard that you will need to use 44mm bones. Is this true? Had a chance to run with JJ Chang of HB today. Great young driver for HB. Cool kid to hang out & pit with.
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:44 PM   #3291
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
With the stock shock towers, the shocks are extended pretty far to get the correct downtravel. In order to get the springs set with enough preload to maintain a proper ride height, the preload collars are way down in the range of the body. With the lowered towers, the preload does not need to be set in such a way. Its not a functional thing, just something I noticed that was kind of nice. The most important change with the shock towers is the piston position change In my opinion.

-Korey
Now I got what you are saying for reason to use the lower shock form the start..Thanks for your explanning ...I agreed
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:55 PM   #3292
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Originally Posted by DJGonzo69 View Post
When using the gear diff in the front I have heard that you will need to use 44mm bones. Is this true? Had a chance to run with JJ Chang of HB today. Great young driver for HB. Cool kid to hang out & pit with.
if you go back a page or 2, you'll see that I asked the same exact question when Hiro said you need 44mm shafts..

I've been running 46mm without issue - no binding at all...Korey gave an explanation of what the longer shafts gives you, feeling-wise, but I just don't have a set of 44mm shafts to compare which feel of the car I like better - so the 46mm stay in mine...
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:04 AM   #3293
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Thanks Korey for a great explanation.
In addition to that, i just wanted to let you know we are releasing those new parts below very soon.

#68758 ALUMINUM SERVO SPACER 1mm (2pcs)
#68759 UNIVERSAL AXLE PIN COVER (2pcs)
#68760 NARROW MAIN CHASSIS (2.5mm)
#68763 FRONT SHOCK TOWER (LOW MOUNT)
#68764 REAR SHOCK TOWER (LOW MOUNT)
#68765 SHOCK PISTON 3 HOLES (1.2mm/TEFLON/2pcs)
#68768 SHOCK PISTON 6 HOLES (1.1mm/TEFLON/2pcs)
#68769 SOLID AXLE LONG CUP (STEEL/2pcs)
#68712 UPPER DECK (2.5mm)
#68770 SOLID AXLE LONG CUP (POM/2pcs)
#68772 PIVOT BLOCK FR (+0.5 DEGREE)
#68773 PIVOT BLOCK FR (+1.0 DEGREE)
#68774 PIVOT BLOCK RF (+0.5 DEGREE)
#68775 PIVOT BLOCK RF (+1.0 DEGREE)
#68776 PIVOT BLOCK (3.5 DEGREES)
#68777 PIVOT BLOCK (4.0 DEGREES)
#68794 UNIVERSAL DRIVE SHAFT 46mm (STEEL/46mm/1pc)
#68796 FRONT SPINDLE/REAR HUB CARRIER SET

We are also working on some more stuffs to make the car even better. Stay tuned!
Does Anybody know if these parts are avalible to buy yet if not any idea on when we are hosting a round of femca championship here in australia and would be goo to have these parts for then
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:54 AM   #3294
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hi Korey,

i have a few questions regarding the tcx:

i tried the tamiya front hubs to get more steering and honestly the tamiya and yok hubs are used very often; my problem is, that the aluminium drive shaft locks /chatters at the end. which hubs do you use and should i try also the tamiya drive shafts to minimize the chattering?!

you wrote a lot about the right position of the piston in the shocks; how long is the overall length of your shocks?

please, can you also explain what happens, if you use wider front pivot blocks (1 or 1,5) instead of the original one; also what is the effect of using a wider front block in ff.

thanks in advance

chris
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Old 07-18-2011, 05:00 AM   #3295
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please, can you also explain what happens, if you use wider front pivot blocks (1 or 1,5) instead of the original one; also what is the effect of using a wider front block in ff.

thanks in advance

chris
Hey Chris - check this link out:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in.../Pro4_pg32.jpg

it gives you an explanation of what changing the front toe-blocks does - its very basic and i'm sure there are other guys on here that can explain in greater detail, but I found this to be useful

In the front, the lower you go (ie, 2.0 -> 1.5 -> 1.0 -> 0) the more stability you get in the front...

Hope it helps
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Old 07-18-2011, 06:23 AM   #3296
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Well I should get my TCX later today after class. By tomorrow night it will likely be a TCX /417. If all goes well I have a 417 ver II diff on the way by noon today and in my hands tomorrow. Also what I am guessing are the correct parts to convert the drivetrain using Cyclone TC belts. Hopefully I will have a diff that doesn't leak and is concentric
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:27 AM   #3297
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Anyone looking for a TCX???

F/S: Hot Bodies TCX Roller
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:02 PM   #3298
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Questions?? 8 turn

Does anyone remember the final gear ratio for an 8 turn brushed motor a starting point would be a great help
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:30 PM   #3299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris1160 View Post
hi Korey,

i have a few questions regarding the tcx:

i tried the tamiya front hubs to get more steering and honestly the tamiya and yok hubs are used very often; my problem is, that the aluminium drive shaft locks /chatters at the end. which hubs do you use and should i try also the tamiya drive shafts to minimize the chattering?!

you wrote a lot about the right position of the piston in the shocks; how long is the overall length of your shocks?

please, can you also explain what happens, if you use wider front pivot blocks (1 or 1,5) instead of the original one; also what is the effect of using a wider front block in ff.

thanks in advance

chris
Sorry Chris,

I totally missed this post. Sorry it's taken me a while to notice it .

Overall length for stock shock towers is usually about 64.5mm. With the lowerered towers, I like 63.5 to 64.0mm. I know it may seem like a very small difference, but it does change how the car drives. I think it's important to measure your shocks . The car will generally feel a little more "stuck" with a slightly shorter shock. You can also tune the balance of the car slightly as well. Sometimes I run 63.5 in the front, and 64.0-64.5mm in the rear to get the rear end to rotate a little more.

I personally use Tamiya steering knuckles right now. I honestly don't see the chatter as a terrible thing. I usually try not to turn the wheel that much anyway. Something to think about is how differently the car reacts when it is unload (up in the air on a car stand) in comparison to how it is loaded (while on the ground driving). It usually won't chatter NEARLY as much on the track.

The FF suspension blocks control the amount of arm sweep in the front end. Arm sweep changes a few things in the geometry like ackerman, wheelbase, and inboard toe all at the same time. I've found the more arm sweep you run, the more steering the car will have right at the apex of the corner. Less arm sweep generally gives more steering into the corner, but less going through the middle and exit.

Hope that helps!

-Korey
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:33 PM   #3300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Reardon View Post
Does anyone remember the final gear ratio for an 8 turn brushed motor a starting point would be a great help
Mid to low 8's???? It's been a long time
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