Ooj

Question for people who have tried the Spec-R gear diff in the front. Do you use the 44mm or 46mm bones?

eceer

iTrader: (13)

44mm

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Dane - It's pretty good. I haven't had any issues with any parts not fitting right. The molded parts aren't quite as nice as xray's, but no one's really is. They are light, functional, and wear well.

Others - Tamiya pistons pretty much drop in. I add a small shim before I put the piston on to take up some of the slack. It provides more consistent dampening action that way.

Ooj - You will have to use 44mm driveshafts. You will also have to do a slight amount of grinding on the front suspension block. It actually rubs the Spec-R gear diff.

-Korey

amygal

iTrader: (4)

thanks korey, i heard some people drill the trf holes little bigger. do you know how will it effect the handling?
do you recall how thick the shim that you put under the pistons?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

The Tamiya pistons I have measure out to be 1.1mm, just like the HB pistons. I know on lower grip parking lot tracks, some have drilled out the holes to 1.2mm. So far I haven't found a need to do this though.

The shim can vary a bit. Usually a .1-.2mm shim works good though. You want to take up the slack between the E-clips and the piston, but still allow the piston to rotate easily. This prevents the pistons from warping (yes, warping!!!) over a long period of time.

There is a benefit to the HB pistons though. They are actually machined vs molded. I find their tolerances from piston to piston are much better than some other pistons that people commonly use.

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Also, shimming the piston should be done with the HB pistons as well

Ooj

Has anyone tried the new Spec-R gear diff oils? They seems to have quite a big jump from 3,000 to 100,000 and then 300,000. I'm not entirely sure how this compares to other brands.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

really?!?!? I have 46mm in mine and they fit good - or am i missing something?

or another note, are the HD bulkheads and motor mount really worth it if you're not racing mod?

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I remember Hiro saying 44mm are required depending on what suspension blocks you use. Otherwise the blade will bottom out in the drive cup and cause the suspension and drivetrain to bind up. You might be running wider suspension blocks and not having an issue. I would double check it though . I still run a spool up front, so I haven't personally ran into this issue yet.

The HD bulkheads are just stronger. I guess its a choice on your part if you crash hard enough to bend bulkheads or not. I haven't put any on my car yet, but I figured when I actually bend one, ill replace them with the HD version.

Hope that helps .

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

yeah, that helps about the HD parts..

I'm running a 2.0 FF block and the standard FR block...I'll have to look at the binding tonite when I get home - the only binding I remember is with the blades, they are a little tight in the outdrives

Jo90uk

Is anyone bringing out different degree toe blocks for the FR-RR and RR-FR blocks (those that are angled to miss the sterring sweep and have the cutout for the drive belt) ?

Would have thought maybe 3Racing or Jet might have done this by now

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

Yes what Korey explained is right. When we use spec-r gear diff up front, 44mm drive shaft is required.

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

Hotbodies will come up with new option suspension blocks very soon. They are 0.5/1.0mm wider for FR and RF and 3.5/4.0deg for RR or FF. Also, 1.5mm wider block for FR is in the process but it will take a little longer to be available.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

if it doesn't bind, does it hurt anything if you're running the 46mm shafts???

because, honestly, mine doesn't bind - it was tight the first time I ran it, but then after a day of racing everything loosened up

I know the 3Racing blades are tight in the SpecR diffs, it was just tight sliding them into the outdrives - but after a full days of racing, everything seems all good

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

I think you could use the 46mm if yours doesn't bind, but might want to check with 0 or 1.0deg FF block. The key is when the front suspension compressed all the way up, it shouldn't bind any.

Hope it helps.
Thank you.