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Old 06-13-2011, 07:21 PM   #3046
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Man you guys get really excited .

It's official now, I'm back! I ran the TCX all weekend testing it in parking lot tracks and I'm pretty pleased with how things are going so far. Just need to work on getting the the car to be a little more edgy/aggressive and I'll be happy!

-Korey
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Old 06-13-2011, 07:46 PM   #3047
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Originally Posted by orzel24 View Post
I was testing with no shims and Tamiya knuckles with good result.
Try 2mm, my car is pretty much perfect at the moment
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:21 AM   #3048
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Try 2mm, my car is pretty much perfect at the moment
Ok i will test it this weekend with 2mm shims.
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Old 06-14-2011, 04:30 AM   #3049
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What are considered the gun springs to use.... The HPI set or the HARA set?
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Old 06-14-2011, 06:31 AM   #3050
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Troy,

On the TCX most people are using combos of pink and silver and sometimes gold. This is also with 40-50 weight oil and the 3 hole 1.1mm pistons.

At the moment I'm doing some testing with the Hara springs. These are meant to be progressive unlike the other HPI springs. I'm trying out the Hara Black, Red and Purple on friday at CH. Have some spare silver and gold HPI springs if you want to borrow them. HPI springs are well made. Your brother even borrowed my TCX sway bars at challenge cup.

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Old 06-14-2011, 08:49 AM   #3051
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Man you guys get really excited .

It's official now, I'm back! I ran the TCX all weekend testing it in parking lot tracks and I'm pretty pleased with how things are going so far. Just need to work on getting the the car to be a little more edgy/aggressive and I'll be happy!

-Korey
Welcome back "Whitey". LOL Still trying to get info on the Top Gun race....As soon as I know anything, you will too.
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:25 AM   #3052
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I'm going to laugh when I move down there after I finish school. I'll actually get a tan and you won't know what to call me anymore! :P
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:34 AM   #3053
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Hi there,

I'm looking for some ideas on setup adjustments for my TCX. I run on a tight indoor carpet track (13.5 turbo) with sorex 28 rubber tyres. My problem is that I never seem to have enough turn in - I lose too much time while the front washes out before it bites into the turn. This problem has got worse since I replaced the stock front driveshafts (which had finally worn out) with a set of the Litemodz CVS shafts. I was a bit miffed at this seeing as one of the main selling points of them was increased corner speed due to reduced drivetrain oscillations.

I've had a look at some of the setups on PetitRC - particularly Andy Moore's 17.5 IIC setup which is fairly similar to the one that I currently have. There are a couple of differences which I'm unsure about - firstly I've noticed that most of the pro setups have the rear shocks leaned in a lot (ie hole 3) whereas mine are in hole 5. Surely leaning the rear shocks in makes the rear suspension softer and hence you would lose turn in? The other thing I noticed was that the ballstud in the rear hubs was in the outer position (hole 2). This means a longer rear link - but what effect does this have on the handling?

Thanks in advance for any replies,
Alexander
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:33 AM   #3054
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I've always found that the constant velocity driveshafts (DCJ, ECS, litemodz) all take away initial steering. I really like the way they feel through the middle of the corner though. The only thing I can think of is the slight "bind" drags down the drivetrain acting as brakes in a way, making weight transfer forward slightly more than the other driveshaft alternatives out there.

The pro carpet setups from the IIC are for a pretty high bite track. A lot of the things are to make the car smoother (read as not turn in as hard) but rotate through the middle and exit of the corner better. That extra roll that the leaned in shock position gives puts less pressure on the tires usually produces less grip. I find when I run the shocks in on the back, it makes the car smoother going into the corner, but rotates more mid-exit and has a little bit less forward traction.

But all your problems seem to be upon entry into the corner? Maybe try working on the front end of the car. A little more camber, standing up the front shock a tick, or using more spacers under the suspension blocks (1.5mm vs 1.0mm) are all easy ways to get a more responsive car going into the corner.

A full detailed setup that is on yoru car would help us more when suggesting some things to try as well

-Korey
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:46 AM   #3055
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here's a silly question that's been bugging me for a while.

why doesn't/didn't HB include some more detailed setup information on what the different steering blocks do to the overall feel of the car, or what anti-kick/anti-dive does - like HPI included in the Pro4 manual?

luckily I was able to download a few pages from HPI's site with this info - but am puzzled what it's never been included in ANY of the cyclone manuals?!?!

not a biggie, tamiya doesn't do it either - but if this is a pro-level car being sold to the rest of us mere mortals, wouldn't it be something helpful?
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:02 PM   #3056
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I'm going to laugh when I move down there after I finish school. I'll actually get a tan and you won't know what to call me anymore! :P
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:36 PM   #3057
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I've always found that the constant velocity driveshafts (DCJ, ECS, litemodz) all take away initial steering. I really like the way they feel through the middle of the corner though. The only thing I can think of is the slight "bind" drags down the drivetrain acting as brakes in a way, making weight transfer forward slightly more than the other driveshaft alternatives out there.

The pro carpet setups from the IIC are for a pretty high bite track. A lot of the things are to make the car smoother (read as not turn in as hard) but rotate through the middle and exit of the corner better. That extra roll that the leaned in shock position gives puts less pressure on the tires usually produces less grip. I find when I run the shocks in on the back, it makes the car smoother going into the corner, but rotates more mid-exit and has a little bit less forward traction.

But all your problems seem to be upon entry into the corner? Maybe try working on the front end of the car. A little more camber, standing up the front shock a tick, or using more spacers under the suspension blocks (1.5mm vs 1.0mm) are all easy ways to get a more responsive car going into the corner.

A full detailed setup that is on yoru car would help us more when suggesting some things to try as well

-Korey
Thanks very much - that's really helpful info. There's one more thing that I was looking at, which was that I've seen a lot of people remove the aluminium brace between the top deck and the two steering arms. What affect does this have? Oh, and here's my setup in full:

Front:
Spool
Silver Sway bar with 1 mm underneath the ballstud
Shock in position 3 on the tower and 2 on the wishbone
HPI Pink springs
45 Wt oil
1.1 mm x 3 hole pistons
3 mm under inner ballstuds for front links (position 2)
1.5 mm shims all round under toe blocks
1.5 degree front toe block
4 degrees caster
1.5 degrees camber
0.5 degrees toe-out
5.0 mm Ride Height
6.5 mm droop
4 mm ackerman shims
2 mm shim infront of wishbone (ie between the bumper and the wishbone) and 0.75 mm behind
Steering link in position 2 in the hubs

Rear:
Ball diff
Copper Sway bar with 1 mm underneath the ballstud
Shock in position 5 on the tower and 3 on the wishbone
HPI Silver springs
45 Wt oil
1.1 mm x 3 hole pistons
2 mm under inner ballstuds for rear links (position 2)
1.5 mm shims all round under toe blocks
3.0 degree toe block
2.0 degrees camber
5.5 mm Ride Height
6.0 mm droop
2 mm shim infront of wishbone (between the motor and the wishbone) and 0.75 mm behind
0.75 mm shim infront of the hub and 2 mm behind

The bodyshell is a Protoform LTC-R, the tyres are Sorex 28's. Running a Tekin RS Pro and GM 13.5 motor.
I think that that's about it - if any more information could be helpful just ask!
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:20 PM   #3058
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Originally Posted by A.Wojtecki View Post
Thanks very much - that's really helpful info. There's one more thing that I was looking at, which was that I've seen a lot of people remove the aluminium brace between the top deck and the two steering arms. What affect does this have? Oh, and here's my setup in full:

Front:
Spool
Silver Sway bar with 1 mm underneath the ballstud
Shock in position 3 on the tower and 2 on the wishbone
HPI Pink springs
45 Wt oil
1.1 mm x 3 hole pistons
3 mm under inner ballstuds for front links (position 2)
1.5 mm shims all round under toe blocks
1.5 degree front toe block
4 degrees caster
1.5 degrees camber
0.5 degrees toe-out
5.0 mm Ride Height
6.5 mm droop
4 mm ackerman shims
2 mm shim infront of wishbone (ie between the bumper and the wishbone) and 0.75 mm behind
Steering link in position 2 in the hubs

Rear:
Ball diff
Copper Sway bar with 1 mm underneath the ballstud
Shock in position 5 on the tower and 3 on the wishbone
HPI Silver springs
45 Wt oil
1.1 mm x 3 hole pistons
2 mm under inner ballstuds for rear links (position 2)
1.5 mm shims all round under toe blocks
3.0 degree toe block
2.0 degrees camber
5.5 mm Ride Height
6.0 mm droop
2 mm shim infront of wishbone (between the motor and the wishbone) and 0.75 mm behind
0.75 mm shim infront of the hub and 2 mm behind

The bodyshell is a Protoform LTC-R, the tyres are Sorex 28's. Running a Tekin RS Pro and GM 13.5 motor.
I think that that's about it - if any more information could be helpful just ask!

Hi, I run on a similar size track with the same tyres...... here are some changes you definitely need if your struggling with turn in.....

*increase your front oil weight to 50 to give more bite
*change your front springs to gold to increase initial steering
*lower inner ballstud link from 3mm to 2mm to get more turn in
*perhaps increase your front toe out to 1 degree
*lower your front droop back to 6, you dont want to run any less
*definitely lower your rear droop to 5, that will increase weight transfer to front when you brake.

These changes should help alot!!
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Old 06-14-2011, 03:23 PM   #3059
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Originally Posted by A.Wojtecki View Post
Thanks very much - that's really helpful info. There's one more thing that I was looking at, which was that I've seen a lot of people remove the aluminium brace between the top deck and the two steering arms. What affect does this have? Oh, and here's my setup in full:

Front:
Spool
Silver Sway bar with 1 mm underneath the ballstud
Shock in position 3 on the tower and 2 on the wishbone
HPI Pink springs
45 Wt oil
1.1 mm x 3 hole pistons
3 mm under inner ballstuds for front links (position 2)
1.5 mm shims all round under toe blocks
1.5 degree front toe block
4 degrees caster
1.5 degrees camber
0.5 degrees toe-out
5.0 mm Ride Height
6.5 mm droop
4 mm ackerman shims
2 mm shim infront of wishbone (ie between the bumper and the wishbone) and 0.75 mm behind
Steering link in position 2 in the hubs

Rear:
Ball diff
Copper Sway bar with 1 mm underneath the ballstud
Shock in position 5 on the tower and 3 on the wishbone
HPI Silver springs
45 Wt oil
1.1 mm x 3 hole pistons
2 mm under inner ballstuds for rear links (position 2)
1.5 mm shims all round under toe blocks
3.0 degree toe block
2.0 degrees camber
5.5 mm Ride Height
6.0 mm droop
2 mm shim infront of wishbone (between the motor and the wishbone) and 0.75 mm behind
0.75 mm shim infront of the hub and 2 mm behind

The bodyshell is a Protoform LTC-R, the tyres are Sorex 28's. Running a Tekin RS Pro and GM 13.5 motor.
I think that that's about it - if any more information could be helpful just ask!
What's the shock length? Which hex hubs you have on the car?
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:34 PM   #3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I've always found that the constant velocity driveshafts (DCJ, ECS, litemodz) all take away initial steering. I really like the way they feel through the middle of the corner though. The only thing I can think of is the slight "bind" drags down the drivetrain acting as brakes in a way, making weight transfer forward slightly more than the other driveshaft alternatives out there.

The pro carpet setups from the IIC are for a pretty high bite track. A lot of the things are to make the car smoother (read as not turn in as hard) but rotate through the middle and exit of the corner better. That extra roll that the leaned in shock position gives puts less pressure on the tires usually produces less grip. I find when I run the shocks in on the back, it makes the car smoother going into the corner, but rotates more mid-exit and has a little bit less forward traction.

But all your problems seem to be upon entry into the corner? Maybe try working on the front end of the car. A little more camber, standing up the front shock a tick, or using more spacers under the suspension blocks (1.5mm vs 1.0mm) are all easy ways to get a more responsive car going into the corner.

A full detailed setup that is on yoru car would help us more when suggesting some things to try as well

-Korey
Welcome back to the fast side Now you can be as fast as me LOL j/k Glad to have you on board again
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