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Old 06-10-2011, 08:38 AM   #3016
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Hi,

Which knuckles r the best fit for the tcx, the yokomo ones or the tamiya ones and also what r their part numbers? Do they give a different feel to the steering or r they just stronger than the hpi ones?
I use x-ray blocks on my TCX,with the addition of a small shim to take out the slop.
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Old 06-10-2011, 08:44 AM   #3017
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I use x-ray blocks on my TCX,with the addition of a small shim to take out the slop.
Why do people use Xray blocks, Tamiya blocks, xyz blocks, etc? I mean, why don't you just buy the actual Hot Bodies blocks? I know the stock ones are brittle, but then why not just buy the Hot Bodies aluminum ones? It never made sense to me why people would go with another companies parts and "try to make it fit" when the OEM manufacturer has alternatives (to the brittle ones) which would be a DIRECT fit? I guess I just don't want to "bastardize" my Hot Bodies car with parts meant for other cars (aftermarket parts not included). It's almost like those people who put BMW badges on their Hondas...
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:02 AM   #3018
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Why do people use Xray blocks, Tamiya blocks, xyz blocks, etc? I mean, why don't you just buy the actual Hot Bodies blocks? I know the stock ones are brittle, but then why not just buy the Hot Bodies aluminum ones? It never made sense to me why people would go with another companies parts and "try to make it fit" when the OEM manufacturer has alternatives (to the brittle ones) which would be a DIRECT fit? I guess I just don't want to "bastardize" my Hot Bodies car with parts meant for other cars (aftermarket parts not included). It's almost like those people who put BMW badges on their Hondas...
because alum bends and can break other parts connected to it, like a pricey bellcrank. Xray blocks are stronger, but will still act like a fuse. Every car has at least one weak link point, no reason no to cross use parts that fit and either improve performance or reliability.
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:04 AM   #3019
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The only reason why I run Tamiya steering knuckles is because of the FR block I run, otherwise the standard part is fine and never broke one while using them Ill go back to HB steering knuckles when the new ones are released
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:13 AM   #3020
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Why do people use Xray blocks, Tamiya blocks, xyz blocks, etc? I mean, why don't you just buy the actual Hot Bodies blocks? I know the stock ones are brittle, but then why not just buy the Hot Bodies aluminum ones? It never made sense to me why people would go with another companies parts and "try to make it fit" when the OEM manufacturer has alternatives (to the brittle ones) which would be a DIRECT fit? I guess I just don't want to "bastardize" my Hot Bodies car with parts meant for other cars (aftermarket parts not included). It's almost like those people who put BMW badges on their Hondas...
Because I can
just light humor

but seriously I went thru at least 10 steering knuckles and 8 Chubs before changing the parts. Now I haven't broken one part in the past 3 months.
not fun when I wait all week to race then not finish one qual.
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:43 AM   #3021
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Because I can
just light humor

but seriously I went thru at least 10 steering knuckles and 8 Chubs before changing the parts. Now I haven't broken one part in the past 3 months.
not fun when I wait all week to race then not finish one qual.
I put the aluminum steering knuckles (C-hubs) and have no problem
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Old 06-10-2011, 11:35 AM   #3022
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Hey thanks for the info, I see from the set up sheet Ty was using 'Putty' in the front gear diff. Any particular type? Have used the gear diff in the front myself and it was nice with 500K but felt it still wasnt as good as the spool.
Thanks
I don't know what works better and what is not, but we have used Mugen's cleaning putty with two drops of yokomo Dot6 gear diff oil mixed. the reason why i put the oil into the putty is that seems like the diff gets a bit softer every run with putty only. (looks like it gets the powderization after the run) When i put one or two drops of synthetic oil into the putty, it seems like it's more stable in viscosity.

I could be wrong, but i definitely need more testing.
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Old 06-10-2011, 12:53 PM   #3023
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Guys,

Im using 44mm CVD's on my TCX, with front Spec-R gear diff without any problem.

I use 500.000 up front, but i would like to try out solid front.

I have a spare gear diff and i dont have access right now to 46mm CVD's of any brand so ... any tip in how to block the front diff to make it solid ?. I was thinking on using some of my doughter silicone glue from school inside diff lol ... would work ?

thanks,
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Old 06-10-2011, 02:57 PM   #3024
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because alum bends and can break other parts connected to it, like a pricey bellcrank. Xray blocks are stronger, but will still act like a fuse. Every car has at least one weak link point, no reason no to cross use parts that fit and either improve performance or reliability.
I'm not buying that an Al steering knuckle bends. But maybe you have experience with this. The Al that is used for these parts are VERY stiff; stiffer than steel, in fact. Xray blocks maybe "stronger", but you can believe that the forces are still being transmitted to other parts of the suspension. I think the word that you are looking for is more "pliable"...i.e. - it bends. This is also why my old RS4Pro hasn't broken anything since the knuckles are some sort of plastic. The HB stock knuckles are super brittle (I was wondering why until I realized it was made from graphite...duh!). So there is not much "bend" to them.

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but seriously I went thru at least 10 steering knuckles and 8 Chubs before changing the parts. Now I haven't broken one part in the past 3 months. not fun when I wait all week to race then not finish one qual.
I hear you on this one... I can't begin to tell you how many knuckles/hubs I've broken... But the Al has worked great.
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Old 06-10-2011, 04:37 PM   #3025
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The main reason for tamiya or xray knuckles is they let the ackerman change to be a bit more desirable. Aside from the fact that we should not hit stuff it is particularly easy to brake that the plastic used for HB hubs, and most other brands are stronger. I also do not run hb arms on my car, but then again the only hb things i have are the awesome shocks and bulkheads / layshaft / steering rack, the rest is a bit of a mish mosh.
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:11 PM   #3026
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Mike Haynes, do you mind sending me a pm of what you use on the car?
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:25 PM   #3027
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Be careful with using of tamiya knuckles. The overall front track width is going to be changed and the scrub radius is also changed.

Thanks.
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:31 PM   #3028
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Mike Haynes, do you mind sending me a pm of what you use on the car?
No worries, pm me what you need to know and il elaborate.

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Be careful with using of tamiya knuckles. The overall front track width is going to be changed and the scrub radius is also changed.

Thanks.
Yessir, xray ones are where it's at.
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:21 PM   #3029
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The HB Subaru Type C body I ran at the Reedy..


and a newly finished painted body for a parking lot racing event on the 25th
Made me remind G350gt of Chevron.
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Old 06-11-2011, 05:30 PM   #3030
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Default missing parts

did anybody else has missing parts from there TCX KIT???
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