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Old 04-23-2011, 11:36 AM   #2671
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Originally Posted by steveonamission View Post
So a mate dremels 1.5 blocks so that we can run 1.5 fr pivot block and 1.5 ff block. However he had to dremel the ends aswell, not just the underneath for the belt, as with 4mm of ackerman and 1.5mm shims under the block the steeing turnbuckle ball joints hit the blocks... but just clear on load. Would a solution be to run a hub that creates the same ackerman angle with using less shims on the steering rack? Anyone else had this problem?
You can run Tamiya or Yokomo steering knuckles with 2 or 2.5mm Ackerman. You won't have to dremel and you get little bit more steering with those.
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Old 04-23-2011, 03:23 PM   #2672
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Originally Posted by quick-nik View Post
You can run Tamiya or Yokomo steering knuckles with 2 or 2.5mm Ackerman. You won't have to dremel and you get little bit more steering with those.
Bugger, thought i was missing something, thanks, i'll order Tamiya ones, Yokomo arnt available over here.

Still have to dremel it for the belt though... wish HB released wider F/R blocks.
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Old 04-23-2011, 06:26 PM   #2673
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Originally Posted by M3Armand View Post
I'm trying to find sturdier replacement parts for the super brittle 73507 knuckle hubs.

I read that the Xray T3 (or even T2) knuckles would work, but that I'd have to add some shimming and remove a 2mm spacer from the steering rack to achieve the same Ackermann.

So my question is, why don't I just go with the 67698 HB aluminum knuckles to begin with? I assume this would be a direct bolt on with no shimming necessary? My only reservation about using the HB aluminum knuckles is that if this is "unbreakable", then "something" else has to break down the line upon impact...like the steering or servo...

Thoughts?
I've used both.
I prefer running the aluminum knuckles just easier all around.
I did find that the arms may break easier...so I just changed to the Pro4 arms....
It actually made the car way tougher
Have not broken one single thing on the car since the change.
ohh..almost forgot..I replaced the bumper with a Jet Racing bumper which is a bit wider. (You can use a Parma TC5 bumper with a slight mod).
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:12 PM   #2674
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If you run aluminum knuckles it keeps the breakage to a minimum. It keeps you from breaking caster blocks and knuckles you won't break them near as much but the trade off is breaking the occasional a arm.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:59 AM   #2675
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Hey guys, im wondering (yes i know this sounds silly) does anyone else have a problem with their car hopping? yes, hopping! My car is now known as "The rabbit car" on our track because it is hopping on the sweeper especially, but slightly coming out of corners too. we have narrowed it down to that the car has so much forward traction that my car is actually hopping bacuse the wheels are skipping across the surface because the car has so much front grip? If that makes sense.

Im running mod so obviously the car is going at good speeds when this is occurring, and its not really slowing the car down at all, it just makes it a little annoying to drive consistantly for 5 minutes. And before anyone says is it bumpy in those parts of the track, no its not. ive tried droop and all but nothing seems to work. One lap today my car even lifted the inside 2 wheels off the ground without even hitting anything, and its not a traction roll issue as this is outdoor asphalt that is untreated.

Any help appreciated, btw Any Moore's car did this a TITC a bit also, but my car is taking it to another level

Cheers,

Antoni
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:12 AM   #2676
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What I have noticed when the hops occur is a worn outdrive, lay shaft pulley, or the spool. Any extra play/wear will create the backlash and seen as hop. When all come into play, the car will even hop on the straights.
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:17 AM   #2677
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What I have noticed when the hops occur is a worn outdrive, lay shaft pulley, or the spool. Any extra play/wear will create the backlash and seen as hop. When all come into play, the car will even hop on the straights.
I was thinking the same thing, im thinking its the spool cups, but i only replaced them 2 days ago, damn things wear too fast Cannot wait for this Roche spool!
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:19 AM   #2678
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The cups were fine most likely, it's the spool itself. It's Alu so the steel pin wears into it.
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:20 AM   #2679
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The cups were fine most likely, it's the spool itself. It's Alu so the steel pin wears into it.
Mine is both I already know, my cups just seem to wear so fast anyway. Never had a problem with the Roche spool wearing on the Yokomo so I know it will be fine in this car.
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:24 AM   #2680
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Do you have info on the Roche I can look at??
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:35 AM   #2681
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Originally Posted by steveonamission View Post
So a mate dremels 1.5 blocks so that we can run 1.5 fr pivot block and 1.5 ff block. However he had to dremel the ends aswell, not just the underneath for the belt, as with 4mm of ackerman and 1.5mm shims under the block the steeing turnbuckle ball joints hit the blocks... but just clear on load. Would a solution be to run a hub that creates the same ackerman angle with using less shims on the steering rack? Anyone else had this problem?
dude care to take photo of it?
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:37 AM   #2682
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3 View Post
Hey guys, im wondering (yes i know this sounds silly) does anyone else have a problem with their car hopping? yes, hopping! My car is now known as "The rabbit car" on our track because it is hopping on the sweeper especially, but slightly coming out of corners too. we have narrowed it down to that the car has so much forward traction that my car is actually hopping bacuse the wheels are skipping across the surface because the car has so much front grip? If that makes sense.

Im running mod so obviously the car is going at good speeds when this is occurring, and its not really slowing the car down at all, it just makes it a little annoying to drive consistantly for 5 minutes. And before anyone says is it bumpy in those parts of the track, no its not. ive tried droop and all but nothing seems to work. One lap today my car even lifted the inside 2 wheels off the ground without even hitting anything, and its not a traction roll issue as this is outdoor asphalt that is untreated.

Any help appreciated, btw Any Moore's car did this a TITC a bit also, but my car is taking it to another level

Cheers,

Antoni
Try to mount inverted the spur / pulleys holders, # 68705 spur gear holder directly to the front.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:40 AM   #2683
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Originally Posted by steveonamission View Post
Bugger, thought i was missing something, thanks, i'll order Tamiya ones, Yokomo arnt available over here.

Still have to dremel it for the belt though... wish HB released wider F/R blocks.
i heard that new F/R blocks are on the way
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:55 AM   #2684
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Old 04-25-2011, 02:56 PM   #2685
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Originally Posted by quick-nik View Post
You can run Tamiya or Yokomo steering knuckles with 2 or 2.5mm Ackerman. You won't have to dremel and you get little bit more steering with those.
dont forget tamiya and yokomo knuckles give diferent akerman effect and shiming up the rack to make up the differnce doesn't create the same akerman as this changes the steering throw geometry. im not saying it not correct just making everybody aware.

andy moores car at one of the ets meets had yokomo knuckles you will not be able to re create his setup with out them.

stu
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