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Old 02-27-2011, 07:25 AM   #2251
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Originally Posted by David Galdo View Post
Imagine that, Hara in third!!! There was no way Moore was to be denied this conquest! He controlled it from the first qualifier.



A TCX finished 4th in the Brushless class (13.5) and dominated (TQ and Win) in the Open Blushless (11.5).
Anyone have the video of this main event.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:42 AM   #2252
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Default Parts needed

Can anyone help me out? Do you know who carries the following? Seems OOS at a few of the places I shop at.

1.0 mm spacers/washers
1.5 and 1.0 pivot blocks
part 73507 - steering knuckles
part 73513 - body post

Not a need but a want as well is the top deck screws in purple M3x5mm

Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:25 AM   #2253
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I'm looking for some setup help for my TCX on a medium to high grip tight indoor carpet track running boosted 13.5. The main problem is a hesitation in turning in; the car seems particularly prone to washing out in the the chicane at the end of the straight. I use kit setup, except the front shocks are in one hole in the tower, the front springs are HPI pinks and I'm using 3 hole 1.1 mm pistons and 45 Wt Associated oil all round. The tyres are Sorex XG-28JB carpet rubber tyres. During a race meeting I tend to reduce the front droop very slightly and increase the rear droop by an equal amount, but the problem remains. I'm going to try going from a Mazdaspeed 6 to an LTC-R in the hope of getting more turn in, but I'm sure that the bodyshell can't be my only problem (+ a Mazdaspeed 6 should work pretty much anywhere), so I'd be happy to hear any advice. In particular I'd be interested to hear about the front toe-block - the standard kit supplied part is 2.5 degrees but I've seen lots of carpet setups using a 1.5 degree front block. Would switching to a 1.5 degree front block help turn in?

Thanks in advance
Alexander
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:30 AM   #2254
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Default TITC 2011

Congrats Andy at TITC 2011!
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:57 AM   #2255
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Originally Posted by A.Wojtecki View Post
I'm looking for some setup help for my TCX on a medium to high grip tight indoor carpet track running boosted 13.5. The main problem is a hesitation in turning in; the car seems particularly prone to washing out in the the chicane at the end of the straight. I use kit setup, except the front shocks are in one hole in the tower, the front springs are HPI pinks and I'm using 3 hole 1.1 mm pistons and 45 Wt Associated oil all round. The tyres are Sorex XG-28JB carpet rubber tyres. During a race meeting I tend to reduce the front droop very slightly and increase the rear droop by an equal amount, but the problem remains. I'm going to try going from a Mazdaspeed 6 to an LTC-R in the hope of getting more turn in, but I'm sure that the bodyshell can't be my only problem (+ a Mazdaspeed 6 should work pretty much anywhere), so I'd be happy to hear any advice. In particular I'd be interested to hear about the front toe-block - the standard kit supplied part is 2.5 degrees but I've seen lots of carpet setups using a 1.5 degree front block. Would switching to a 1.5 degree front block help turn in?

Thanks in advance
Alexander
Try a shorter front camber link, that will make the car more aggressive, and stop the car rolling over itself and washing out, thats what i run on carpet, with the rear in the long camber link hole.

Just a suggestion.

Steven
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:35 AM   #2256
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Try a shorter front camber link, that will make the car more aggressive, and stop the car rolling over itself and washing out, thats what i run on carpet, with the rear in the long camber link hole.

Just a suggestion.

Steven
Thanks - so move the front inner camber link to the outer hole (number 1 on the setup sheet) and keep the rears in hole number 2? Also is that still with 2 mm shims under the inner ballstuds?
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:55 AM   #2257
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Thanks - so move the front inner camber link to the outer hole (number 1 on the setup sheet) and keep the rears in hole number 2? Also is that still with 2 mm shims under the inner ballstuds?
Yep, remember to reset your camber aswell.

Yeah i run 2mm all round, my car never lacks steering anywhere, if anything i suffer from a little oversteer from time to time, but minor changes elesewhere help.
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:44 PM   #2258
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vid titc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDdxVz1qxHc&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:08 AM   #2259
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The new king of TITC!

Congratulations Andy
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:15 AM   #2260
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Hi

I have just been to my first race with the TCX, first impressions, it handles good and overall is a good car, but I've broken 3-4 46mm aluminum shafts. Does anyone have an alternative to the aluminium shafts... something with steel wood be good.

Thanks
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:02 AM   #2261
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last year videos were even better ..
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:03 AM   #2262
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Originally Posted by smk View Post
Hi

I have just been to my first race with the TCX, first impressions, it handles good and overall is a good car, but I've broken 3-4 46mm aluminum shafts. Does anyone have an alternative to the aluminium shafts... something with steel wood be good.

Thanks
Use the drive shafts HPI 88914 PRO-D,are steel, indestructible,are used without modification.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:05 AM   #2263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smk View Post
Hi

I have just been to my first race with the TCX, first impressions, it handles good and overall is a good car, but I've broken 3-4 46mm aluminum shafts. Does anyone have an alternative to the aluminium shafts... something with steel wood be good.

Thanks
Go a few pages back and there is a lot of options to resolve the problem. Do a search for bones, Cvd, Yokomo
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:48 AM   #2264
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last year videos were even better ..
+1 terrible video coverage. But I suppose it's better than nothing.
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:06 AM   #2265
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Could somebody could ensure if have someone from Japan which bring a Kawada SV-10 to race in 13.5 class, please?

Best regards
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