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Old 02-15-2011, 01:53 PM   #2131
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Default Kydex

I have broken every front plastic piece...CHub, steering knuckles, arms...way too many to count.
my solution which finally fixed all my problems.
installed a Side Piece Kydex bumper a little dremel action...and bam..a tank.
and full aluminum front end.

just an FYI
Xray Steering knuckles do fit (bullet proof). Must place a .5mm spacer on the top side of the knuckle
use the inner ackerman hole, very close to HB knuckle outer hole.
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Hot Bodies TCX-img_20110215_164429.jpg   Hot Bodies TCX-img_20110215_164507.jpg   Hot Bodies TCX-img_20110215_164436.jpg  
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:40 PM   #2132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
I have broken every front plastic piece...CHub, steering knuckles, arms...way too many to count.
my solution which finally fixed all my problems.
installed a Side Piece Kydex bumper a little dremel action...and bam..a tank.
and full aluminum front end.

just an FYI
Xray Steering knuckles do fit (bullet proof). Must place a .5mm spacer on the top side of the knuckle
use the inner ackerman hole, very close to HB knuckle outer hole.
I know this is off topic for your post, but seeing your pics reminded me...

who's turnbuckles are you using with those losi ends? HPI or losi?
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:22 PM   #2133
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Default Top parts

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Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
I know this is off topic for your post, but seeing your pics reminded me...

who's turnbuckles are you using with those losi ends? HPI or losi?
the TI lunsford, the pivot ball and plastic ends (14mm) are for the TOP Photon.
removed about 90 percent of the slop in the car, once I installed it I could actually measure front toe on the gauges.
Installed on the steering rack to knuckle and top link. Will work on doing the inner links also when I get a chance.
probably the cheapest and most solid fix. the Losi ends wear out too much for my liking.

for those who want to see what the Yokomo cups look like the pics tell the story....Photon bones.
butchered one set of Yok cups...but finally got it right.
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Hot Bodies TCX-img_20110215_182435.jpg   Hot Bodies TCX-img_20110215_182519.jpg  
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:01 PM   #2134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
I have broken every front plastic piece...CHub, steering knuckles, arms...way too many to count.
my solution which finally fixed all my problems.
installed a Side Piece Kydex bumper a little dremel action...and bam..a tank.
and full aluminum front end.

just an FYI
Xray Steering knuckles do fit (bullet proof). Must place a .5mm spacer on the top side of the knuckle
use the inner ackerman hole, very close to HB knuckle outer hole.
I think you'll find the same Kydex bumper on Mr. Haynes' winning car

Making bumpers isn't too hard, but it requires a little time and a scroll saw to do it easily.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:13 PM   #2135
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I think you'll find the same Kydex bumper on Mr. Haynes' winning car

Making bumpers isn't too hard, but it requires a little time and a scroll saw to do it easily.
No i scraped it, now i got a parma thick foammy on it.
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Old 02-15-2011, 05:33 PM   #2136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
the TI lunsford, the pivot ball and plastic ends (14mm) are for the TOP Photon.
removed about 90 percent of the slop in the car, once I installed it I could actually measure front toe on the gauges.
Installed on the steering rack to knuckle and top link. Will work on doing the inner links also when I get a chance.
probably the cheapest and most solid fix. the Losi ends wear out too much for my liking.

for those who want to see what the Yokomo cups look like the pics tell the story....Photon bones.
butchered one set of Yok cups...but finally got it right.
Man, that's gonna be one expensive wreck when all that aluminum bends.
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:06 PM   #2137
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Default $$$

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Man, that's gonna be one expensive wreck when all that aluminum bends.
After all the pile of parts from this past weekend, it was just super fail......I will take pics of the pile of metal when i create it
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:27 AM   #2138
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Hey all, thinking of picking up a TCX for outdoor racing on medium to low grip asphalt (parking lot). Any recommendations on what extra things I would want for setup/spares? This is for boosted 17.5.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:47 AM   #2139
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Default Drivetrain movement

There has always been alot of movement within the spool outdrives and layshaft pulleys, as if the holes have been made too big for the pins.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to reduce or remove this movment or is it just part of the design?

Also do the layshaft pulleys need shimming because they have a lot of side to side movment as well?
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:37 AM   #2140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt W View Post
There has always been alot of movement within the spool outdrives and layshaft pulleys, as if the holes have been made too big for the pins.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to reduce or remove this movment or is it just part of the design?

Also do the layshaft pulleys need shimming because they have a lot of side to side movment as well?
The play was not there when i built my kit, but after a few modified meetings, the pins did open up the holes on the spool and layshaft. What i did was drop a tiny bit of super glue in the spool holes, let it dry, and then re-attach the outdrives , it worked for me anyway, still no play. Though i'll need a new layshaft as the hole s have opened out too much now, have about 3mm of rear belt play lol. I also placed a .1 shim on each side to take out a little side to side play, but you don't want to remove it all.
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Old 02-16-2011, 10:20 AM   #2141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt W View Post
There has always been alot of movement within the spool outdrives and layshaft pulleys, as if the holes have been made too big for the pins.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to reduce or remove this movment or is it just part of the design?

Also do the layshaft pulleys need shimming because they have a lot of side to side movment as well?

As steveonamission stated...you don't want to remove all the play...keeps everything moving freely.
I used .25 shims on the middle layshaft
used standard shim on the diff and spool to reduce excesssive left to right movement.

For the spool, once I dropped in the Yokomo cups all play is gone on the cups...it's pretty awesome to see the difference.
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Last edited by olhipster1; 02-16-2011 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:07 PM   #2142
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Default drivetrain movement

im using the yokomo bd5 steel outdrives but ive stil got the movement!!

I was wondering if the layshaft for the bd5 would fit our car as it appears a similar size and alignment but perhaps has better drilled holes?
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Old 02-16-2011, 02:26 PM   #2143
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Originally Posted by Matt W View Post
im using the yokomo bd5 steel outdrives but ive stil got the movement!!

I was wondering if the layshaft for the bd5 would fit our car as it appears a similar size and alignment but perhaps has better drilled holes?
The BD5 layshaft is almost identical in every way but ... Do you really want blue on your car?
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:26 PM   #2144
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For a spool you want the sidepiece out drives... pm Mike Hanulec My car has 40 tooth pulleys so i can use a top spool in it, they are dope. I had been using the hb ones dremeled out to fit an ecs, they are ok but dont last long. I have been running gear diff for most of the carpet races since it works out very nice with minimal drive line abuse, but with this spool setup that will last im gonna try it again.

Also, here is a shot of my car with the new exotech chassis on it. Everything bolted up nice and straight, heres a pic for yall. It seems a bit stiffer, but is nice and narrow, its really nice to have my battery easily held in for a change. I have a smokem chassis on the way as well, so il do a comparison once i get it.
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:13 AM   #2145
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I think the Smokem Chassis Looks more Interesting than the Exotek.
Is the Smokem As thick As the original TCX Chassis?
And where can i buy it? I get no answer from Smokem.
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