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Old 01-17-2011, 06:16 AM   #1876
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
....and you're getting equal toe with 'em? If it is, I m just going to get 'em instead coz its available at my LHS.
since I forgot about repying to you - yes, i get equa toe left-to-right
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:04 AM   #1877
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Reading about the droop, do you mean 6 droop using gauges or 6 mm over ride height ?
also, whats the common amount of " over ride height " droop ?
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:42 AM   #1878
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since I forgot about repying to you - yes, i get equa toe left-to-right
Thanks bro.
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:34 AM   #1879
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I wouldnt go longer than 65mm if you want to use higher ride heights as we talked about a few pages back
it is true, I use ride height high enough to prevent chafing of the frame to the ground, our track is not perfectly smooth, and when he raced on the carpet is allowed a minimum height of 5mm, so for safety we use 5.5 mm, so shock long 65mm help to set the proper droop.
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Old 01-17-2011, 10:49 AM   #1880
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it is true, I use ride height high enough to prevent chafing of the frame to the ground, our track is not perfectly smooth, and when he raced on the carpet is allowed a minimum height of 5mm, so for safety we use 5.5 mm, so shock long 65mm help to set the proper droop.
Shock length is also going to depend on your shims under the toe blocks. With a smaller shim you will need a longer shock length just to get your ride height above 5mm. We race at a super smooth asphalt track and I have very thin shims or none at all under the blocks. My shock length is almost 66mm front and rear. Just enough length to get the ride height and droop to where I want it. If you have 1.5mm-2mm shims under the blocks you should be okay with a 65mm shock length (depending on your ride height requirements). Anything less than a 1mm shim under your block you will have to start elongating your shock lengths.

HTH,
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Old 01-17-2011, 11:49 AM   #1881
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Shock length is also going to depend on your shims under the toe blocks. With a smaller shim you will need a longer shock length just to get your ride height above 5mm. We race at a super smooth asphalt track and I have very thin shims or none at all under the blocks. My shock length is almost 66mm front and rear. Just enough length to get the ride height and droop to where I want it. If you have 1.5mm-2mm shims under the blocks you should be okay with a 65mm shock length (depending on your ride height requirements). Anything less than a 1mm shim under your block you will have to start elongating your shock lengths.

HTH,
You are right, with a smaller shim under toe blocks you will have to further increase the length of the shock, I use normally standard shim (1.5 mm) and the shock long 65mm to find good.
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:20 PM   #1882
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Questions??

Could somebody tell me if the wheel axle of TRF416 and Yokomo BD5 fit TCX, please?
Then i want also know if tamiya shafts fits or not spool cup of BD5.

Best regards

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Old 01-17-2011, 01:40 PM   #1883
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Hmm, im not getting why so many people are changing the CVD's, the outdrives and stuffs on their TCX ? Is there something wrong with the TCX or what ?
I read a few pages back and didnt get my answer
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Old 01-17-2011, 01:47 PM   #1884
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Hmm, im not getting why so many people are changing the CVD's, the outdrives and stuffs on their TCX ? Is there something wrong with the TCX or what ?
I read a few pages back and didnt get my answer
Stock stuff is aluminum and bends/wears out pretty easily. I know the top photon bones fit the axle and they have the right lengths, their steel bones are good.
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Old 01-17-2011, 01:53 PM   #1885
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Stock stuff is aluminum and bends/wears out pretty easily. I know the top photon bones fit the axle and they have the right lengths, their steel bones are good.
Oh so its just about " quality " ?
I get it , but how come they didn't do it on the previous cyclone ?
Has HB made a kit equiped with less " though " stuffs ?
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:15 PM   #1886
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Oh so its just about " quality " ?
I get it , but how come they didn't do it on the previous cyclone ?
Has HB made a kit equiped with less " though " stuffs ?
CVD are of excellent quality, are very lightweight, aluminum offers better performance because it is very light, but unfortunately not as strong as the heavy steel.
The problem is that HB has not yet produced the CVD steel optional for those who want less performance but more durable, for the old TC was available.
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:20 PM   #1887
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Oh so its just about " quality " ?
I get it , but how come they didn't do it on the previous cyclone ?
Has HB made a kit equiped with less " though " stuffs ?
I don't think there is any car out (any brand) there that someone doesn't change/upgrade something on it...
I don't think there is any car out (any brand) there that has a part that commonly breaks...
Every brand has a unique advantage/flaw. It's a give and take..make the car faster, lighter, quicker...etc...

I put on a combo of Yok spool cups and other brand front bones..and it's freakin' nuts....
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Old 01-17-2011, 04:51 PM   #1888
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I have been running mine for two months and my stock front cvd's are fine. I do not think it is a design flow, but rather driver errors and hitting things too hard. I have not seen one break yet on it's own without driver misjudgement.
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Old 01-17-2011, 06:27 PM   #1889
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I have been running mine for two months and my stock front cvd's are fine. I do not think it is a design flow, but rather driver errors and hitting things too hard. I have not seen one break yet on it's own without driver misjudgement.
Wait till you put some power into the car The std ones will snap under braking load in modified.
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Old 01-17-2011, 07:19 PM   #1890
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Wait till you put some power into the car The std ones will snap under braking load in modified.
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