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Old 01-09-2011, 10:32 AM   #1801
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
Finally done....and raced it today for 1st time.....got TQ and won at our local series race....I just follow Agno's set up (thanks bro) posted few pages back with only few changes on the droop and ride height....the car was dialed straight away....

Here's the pic of it...
Excellent Dameetz! I am happy that my setup was to help.
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:06 PM   #1802
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Originally Posted by S.A.W View Post
Hi,

Is there supposed to be an O ring in the 'cylinder nut' #HB70720 ? as mine turn really easy, I think they might move while racing.
X ray cyclinder nuts work as well. Just depends on if you like the silver color.
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:21 PM   #1803
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Hi,

Is there supposed to be an O ring in the 'cylinder nut' #HB70720 ? as mine turn really easy, I think they might move while racing.
There is a problem with the use of nuts with Oring (I've to tried) the thread of the shock is not sufficient to adjust the ride height... however the original work well and do not become loose
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:24 PM   #1804
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
I love my TCX and I am sure all the guys in this thread do as well. The ability to get parts is REALLY wearing thin on my patience. Something to consider if you have not purchased one yet.
however, it seems everyone is starting to get their inventory of HB parts back in stock also, unless your track has a large HB following, you'll always have issues getting parts - same thing if you're a tamiya guy in xray land

suspension-wise - they are the same as the TC, wish i have spares of...diffs appear to essentially be the same except for the longer outdrives..

but is there any huge improvement over the old cyclone?

and, this isn't a TCX question - but what's with the fans coming back on the TC chassis again?
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:25 PM   #1805
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dameetz
Nice looking car. I like how you are color coordinated. Is that some kind of wrap on the speedo and servo?

S.A.W.
A quick fix is to 'scratch' inside the treads of the cylinder nut with a knife or any sharp tool. Just make 3-4 vertical cuts on the threads.
This will make the nut spin much less but it won't harm it.
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:01 PM   #1806
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For me I had my 1st run with it yesterday.. with a setup I am still working on... the car's fastest lap is 0.2 sec faster then my old Cyclone Exotek TC and thats with tires that were almost dead... I was pretty happy with this as the car felt so different to my old car then I saw the lap times were better.. really does feel like the car turns so much better. Way more balanced.

One bad thing about the car.. man are the pinions and spurs a pain to change when compared to the TC.. but thats ok..


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Originally Posted by k_bojar View Post
however, it seems everyone is starting to get their inventory of HB parts back in stock also, unless your track has a large HB following, you'll always have issues getting parts - same thing if you're a tamiya guy in xray land

suspension-wise - they are the same as the TC, wish i have spares of...diffs appear to essentially be the same except for the longer outdrives..

but is there any huge improvement over the old cyclone?

and, this isn't a TCX question - but what's with the fans coming back on the TC chassis again?
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Old 01-09-2011, 02:51 PM   #1807
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Hi,

For adjusting roll, when should I use spacers under the blocks versus tuning with roll bars?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:26 PM   #1808
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Originally Posted by AGNO View Post
There is a problem with the use of nuts with Oring (I've to tried) the thread of the shock is not sufficient to adjust the ride height... however the original work well and do not become loose
Exactly why a few people here dont use them. This is only a problem though if you make the shock longer for more droop. I think if you run the shock length at 64mm they will just be ok.


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Originally Posted by warnos View Post
For me I had my 1st run with it yesterday.. with a setup I am still working on... the car's fastest lap is 0.2 sec faster then my old Cyclone Exotek TC and thats with tires that were almost dead... I was pretty happy with this as the car felt so different to my old car then I saw the lap times were better.. really does feel like the car turns so much better. Way more balanced.

One bad thing about the car.. man are the pinions and spurs a pain to change when compared to the TC.. but thats ok..
Go from underneath the car to undo/tighten the pinion. Thats how i do it and its really easy.
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:28 PM   #1809
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I need a little help, I don't run tc alot and I haven't run the 13.5 in the TCX yet but I am going to be running 13.5 TC next weekend on a 40 x 70 track , usually very tight layout, I am wondering what gearing I should start with, I am running a 115T spur with an LRP 13.5. Thanks.
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:17 PM   #1810
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Ty, what speed controller and firmware version?
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Old 01-10-2011, 02:13 AM   #1811
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anyone used a gear diff in a TCX yet? if so which one and how did u fit it
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Old 01-10-2011, 03:49 AM   #1812
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Originally Posted by Jarred King View Post
anyone used a gear diff in a TCX yet? if so which one and how did u fit it
The Xray 38T spec R and Tamiya 37T spec R also fit when you change the front pullies/Belts. You can also convert an NT1 diff
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Old 01-10-2011, 04:28 AM   #1813
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Originally Posted by Jarred King View Post
anyone used a gear diff in a TCX yet? if so which one and how did u fit it
I use the 3Racing, here are the instructions for assembly.

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Old 01-10-2011, 06:29 AM   #1814
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I converted my driveline to 40tooth like top/yoke, and use spec r, you need 3mm longer belt front and rear for it to work.
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:57 AM   #1815
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The Spec-R gear diff for TCX will be end of this month ready! So no need to modify other gear diffs.
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