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Old 01-05-2011, 05:18 PM   #1756
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Sup dudes,

Today I cam across this picture of the TC6 and i noticed it employs a ball stud and ball end design which is far more better purely because it's easier to remove so I was wondering if there's any after-market ones out there that will fit the TCX or even the ones from the TC6?

Thanks
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:39 PM   #1757
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Try using the top photon linkage parts. Heavyduty and fit perfect
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:14 AM   #1758
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Hi,

Thinking of getting the TCX and have a few questions. I'm currently running an T3 although just converted it to the new 2011 but haven't run it yet as I might sell it.

Are parts easy to get in the UK ?

How does the car hold up in terms of crashes and the usual wear and tear ?

How does it drive on asphalt out of the box, does it need alot of changes ?

To be honest I've not had many problems with the Xray but there's no room on the new chassis and fancy a change.

Thanks.
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Old 01-06-2011, 09:20 AM   #1759
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I would like to share my setup but I'm not able to upload it. The pdf seems to big. If you want I can send it via e-mail.

@ S.A.W
I think the car is pretty good out of the box. You don't need any option parts. The only usefull option part is 3 hole pistons. Of course different springs ( HB pink, blue ) are usefull, too. If you have a big crash it can happen that the front driveshafts will bend because they are made from aluminium. But honestly I only broke one at the worlds when I had a hard crash after the straight.
The situation about spare parts is in the moment so so ... But you can be sure that in the future this will be better. HPI Europe is based in the UK.

Freddy
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Old 01-06-2011, 10:10 AM   #1760
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Originally Posted by unknownmember View Post
Sup dudes,

Today I cam across this picture of the TC6 and i noticed it employs a ball stud and ball end design which is far more better purely because it's easier to remove so I was wondering if there's any after-market ones out there that will fit the TCX or even the ones from the TC6?

Thanks
When you say it is far easier to remove, do you mean its easier to take out the ball stud because you dont have to snap off the ball cup?

In that case get a drill and drill a hole in the top of the ball cup.

A few things drill from the inside out (because that way you have a cleaner cut on the inside of the ball cup) i used to just put mine on a phone book and drill through straight into the the soft paper.
But i also always used the heavy duty ball studs. I dont have a TCX so i dont know what ball cups you get with it.
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Last edited by mangoman; 01-06-2011 at 06:41 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:21 AM   #1761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreddySudhoff View Post
I would like to share my setup but I'm not able to upload it. The pdf seems to big. If you want I can send it via e-mail.

Freddy
Hello Freddy, me too interested in your setup, you can send it to me also?

Thanks
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:35 AM   #1762
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Thanks Freddy.

Just been looking through the manual online and CA'ing the chassis do you need to CA all the cut out's or do you just do around the outside edge ? looks a right pain to do all the cut outs !
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:39 AM   #1763
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You don't have to do all the cut outs, but I did. If you plan to use tape... sand those edges and seal it with CA.
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:45 PM   #1764
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Hi Guys,

Just wondering if the pro races (e.g. ETS) use handout tires that have less grip than non-handout (e.g. sorex + insert tuned to a specific track), and hence the pro setups are for medium/low grip?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:56 PM   #1765
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I tried the Yokomo steel 45.5mm front drive shafts today (I just bought the bone part and it works with the stock axle and cvd internals) along with the Yokomo spool cups. I ground down maybe 1mm on the spool cups for the pins to align. It works great. I also tried the HBS 61238 front caster blocks that are a tad softer than the kit carbon parts for added durability. Along with the Parma Xray bumper that I jammed on, everything held up well the whole night until.... right at the end of the night on a light tap I did break the plastic spool cup. I would recommend the metal Yokomo steel cups to go along with the Yokomo steel 45.5mm shafts or the Tamiya steel 46mm shafts unless you are a skilled driver. Thanks to Antoni and everyone else for the help. If you are having durability issues start with bumper and c-hubs and then also the steel drive shafts and metal spool cups. This car reacts well to all the setup changes we tried tonight. I am by no means a good driver but my fellow racer is more experienced at setup and tuning and was impressed with the TCX.
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Old 01-07-2011, 06:41 AM   #1766
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The tires we used at the ETS races had a lot traction. Also the carpet has high traction because of the many racers. So the setups are good against traction roll. I think the most drivers used super glue on the sidewall of the tires to prevent traction roll.
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Old 01-07-2011, 07:04 AM   #1767
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Just so I get this right, if you use the BD5 Steel outdrives, they fit the Tamiya 46mm steel dog bones/shaft correctly (as in no slop when the drive pin enter the outdrive slot) ?

If so im going to go this route, it's dead cheap and more bullet proof !

Also, does anyone know where I can get a decent price on a full set of the HB pro shocks for my TCX ? Ideally with the purple colors as they seem more solid and thicker than the black one's ?

Cheers
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:00 AM   #1768
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So, i've only just got around to fitting different front pivot blocks, i wanted to try a 0, so no front arm sweep, noticed as i fitted it, the ackerman steering increased, but what i didnt like, was the driveshaft angle did too! Doesnt seem right to me, ive got driveshaft sweep now.
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:47 AM   #1769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo90uk View Post
Just so I get this right, if you use the BD5 Steel outdrives, they fit the Tamiya 46mm steel dog bones/shaft correctly (as in no slop when the drive pin enter the outdrive slot) ?

If so im going to go this route, it's dead cheap and more bullet proof !

Also, does anyone know where I can get a decent price on a full set of the HB pro shocks for my TCX ? Ideally with the purple colors as they seem more solid and thicker than the black one's ?

Cheers
Hotbodies/hpi doesn't offer a pro shock set like the one your referring to that was standard on the cyclone WCE moorespeed. You must purchase each hop up separately. This includes:

*Titanium nitride shock shafts
*purple aluminum shock spring adjustment collars
*purple aluminum shock spring pitch/mounts
*purple aluminum shock bushings
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:55 AM   #1770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreddySudhoff View Post
The tires we used at the ETS races had a lot traction. Also the carpet has high traction because of the many racers. So the setups are good against traction roll. I think the most drivers used super glue on the sidewall of the tires to prevent traction roll.
Right, I've also tried the superglue on the edge of the front tires on the carpet works well, much less traction roll.
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