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Old 12-08-2010, 05:17 PM   #1516
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Guys, just some info on front axles. I tried the T.O.P.s and they do work but they dig grooves into the spool cups. This makes the car very uneasy turning. My solution was to open up the cups with a dremel tool (cutting wheel, flat ginding wheel and file to smooth out the edges) so the T.O.P. blades could be used.

PROBLEM SOLVED!
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:35 AM   #1517
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Besides the HB Pro D you can also use Yokomo Delrin Outdrives and Yokomo 46 mm driveshaft/axle.

All you need to do is sand/grind down the back of the outdrive approx. 1mm


Works fine !
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Old 12-09-2010, 02:56 AM   #1518
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Default FF and FR blocks

Hi,

i was wondering if anyone would explain the affects of using equal ff and fr hingepin blocks over the standard kit setting. I am having trouble with grip roll with the std blocks and was wondering if changing this would help?

any help would be appreciated
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Old 12-09-2010, 04:18 PM   #1519
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Default Non-boosted 17.5

I'm thinking of running non-boosted 17.5, what would be a good starting FDR and spur gear?
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Old 12-09-2010, 04:31 PM   #1520
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I'm thinking of running non-boosted 17.5, what would be a good starting FDR and spur gear?
I know with my TC I'm geared under 4.0. I think I'm running 93/50, or something very close to that....

With a TCX, that would be something like 115/56. Start with a higher FDR and work your way down, and be sure to check motor temps along the way.
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Old 12-09-2010, 04:41 PM   #1521
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I know with my TC I'm geared under 4.0. I think I'm running 93/50, or something very close to that....

With a TCX, that would be something like 115/56. Start with a higher FDR and work your way down, and be sure to check motor temps along the way.
Thanks, I have a 110 spur on right now I'll see I can match that FDR without changing spur gear.
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Old 12-10-2010, 03:17 AM   #1522
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Hi,

i was wondering if anyone would explain the affects of using equal ff and fr hingepin blocks over the standard kit setting. I am having trouble with grip roll with the std blocks and was wondering if changing this would help?

any help would be appreciated
Matt, some pots rear are explained, in general, it wider the front, for a litle understeer and help with traction roll, you can change only the FR pivot, but if you change FF and FR, for the same amount of degrees, donīt have arm sweep, with this, the car are less agressive, but it depends of avaliable grip in the track, you can gain more steering in the exit of the turns.
Sorry my english is not more accurate.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 12-10-2010, 07:56 AM   #1523
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Hey,

Would moving the lower front shock position out on the wishbones from 2 to 1 help with grip roll, the car seems very aggressive on the front end?
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:10 AM   #1524
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Thanks, I have a 110 spur on right now I'll see I can match that FDR without changing spur gear.

to get to 4.5 overall i had to use 102/44,

theres no way you'll get that with a 110 spur...

hth
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Old 12-10-2010, 09:32 AM   #1525
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the manual saids 6.0 - 7.3 for 17.5
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:20 PM   #1526
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the manual saids 6.0 - 7.3 for 17.5
I'm pretty sure that assumes you're using dynamic timing...the original question was for a stock, fixed timing setup.
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Old 12-10-2010, 02:23 PM   #1527
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Quote:
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to get to 4.5 overall i had to use 102/44,

theres no way you'll get that with a 110 spur...

hth
luke
Thanks, I have a 98 spur I was using on my TC.
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Old 12-10-2010, 03:51 PM   #1528
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the manual saids 6.0 - 7.3 for 17.5
Non boosted you need go to 5.0 or lower
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:01 PM   #1529
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Hi,

i was wondering if anyone would explain the affects of using equal ff and fr hingepin blocks over the standard kit setting. I am having trouble with grip roll with the std blocks and was wondering if changing this would help?

any help would be appreciated
I wish I could remember, but a guy named Korey Harbke went into detail about it here. Do a search on his name and it should pop up. Really, a lot of his posts are very informative. I've gone through them and learned a lot.

He also mentions traction rolling can be running too high of a roll center in the front. Its basically start with 1.5mm FF/FR and also RF/RR. If you notice rolling drop FF/FR to 1.25mm and see if that helps. That said, depending on your setup, your roll center may not be the issue.

And really, a lot of things can cause it. But to understand whats wrong you need to know what is happening. When you're going into a turn, weight is being transferred from the back to the front. So your back end will raise up, and the front end will go down. And so a lot of things can cause that. Too much rear droop will shift too much weight forward, too low of a ride height in the front, too soft a spring in the front, shock towers too "layed down" or "soft" in the front, and a lot more. Just make one change at a time and see how it goes. The XXX main chassis setup guide is really good to pick up too. Very informative.
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:43 PM   #1530
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I used T.O.P's Steel Universal Bone 46mm PO-SDT008 (1pc) $9.99.
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