2LikesTamiya TB-Evolution IV
10-18-2011, 11:28 AM
#3526
TBeIII, IV & 5 each had their own unique bevel gears in gearbox.
They CANNOT be intermixed.
TBeIV had its own spool part... which is a drop-in fit into the TBe5/TB03.
However this part is hard to find as all the TBe5 owners exhausted all stock
before the TB03 appeared.
Ergo TB03 spool should fit TBeIV just fine, which it does
(you should change the spool's e5 gear to a proper eIV "oneway" gear to suit)
TBe5's alloy diff outdrives also fit sweet into TBeIV (but not TBeIII)
They CANNOT be intermixed.
However this part is hard to find as all the TBe5 owners exhausted all stock
before the TB03 appeared.
Ergo TB03 spool should fit TBeIV just fine, which it does
(you should change the spool's e5 gear to a proper eIV "oneway" gear to suit)
TBe5's alloy diff outdrives also fit sweet into TBeIV (but not TBeIII)
10-18-2011, 11:42 AM
#3527
Tamiya 49359 Front Direct Coupling Spool (TB Evo IV)
^^^ its much more intricately machined than TB03 unit
btw i am reminded that Spec-R now makes a gear diff for TB03
http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=141
should fit the e5 nicely but not sure if the gear's
teeth profile difference will hinder its use in eIV
^^^ its much more intricately machined than TB03 unit
btw i am reminded that Spec-R now makes a gear diff for TB03
http://www.spec-r.com/default/index....roducts_id=141
should fit the e5 nicely but not sure if the gear's
teeth profile difference will hinder its use in eIV
Last edited by WC; 10-18-2011 at 12:03 PM.
10-20-2011, 10:53 AM
#3528
@WC...
hi again.. do you recommend getting an aluminum gear to run with a spool?? or will the plastic ones do fine.. was reading somewhere that spools in shaft cars strip gears easily...
thanks again..
hi again.. do you recommend getting an aluminum gear to run with a spool?? or will the plastic ones do fine.. was reading somewhere that spools in shaft cars strip gears easily...
thanks again..
10-20-2011, 11:18 AM
#3529
EvoIV spool and evoV rear diff is exactly how mine was running. I didn't like running the alloy one way gear on my evo. Even with proper shimming, crown gear gets worn faster. Stock ones are quieter too. After selling it, I miss having this chassis now.
10-21-2011, 10:34 AM
#3530
Tamiya only ever made the alloy gear for EvoIV, no other car.
They soldout very early when EvoIV was new and i couldn't find any more
but recently i suspect somebody's found a stash of NOS unsold in japan,
there's a couple appearing for sale this yr.
(haven't bought 1 as my only geenuine EvoIV spool is in the evo5.)
yeah its very harsh on the other little bevel gear
... and you can't buy that little bevel gear except in a pack with the big gear
All shafters need a lot of effort shimming the gearboxes.
the EvoIII used to chewup oneway bevel ringgears... up to 1 every run,
you'd open up the gearbox and find 3-5 teeth missing or squashed.
Practised so much we could get gearbox lid open in under 10s...
eIII had a solid shaft, the bevel pinion sat on the shaft floating.
If you floored the throttle hard with a hot motor or hit something fronton,
the ringgear could bend away and skip a few teeth.
It was solved partially by....
1, 3pc shaft made by Square, stopped the 'javelin' poking in on a smash.
2, Tech racing made a CF backing plate for the ring gear, Tamiya followed.
3, Tamiya beefed up the plastic on the ring gear on the outside edge
4, some tried alloy gearbox casings... very expensive, doubtful if it worked
any better than using the longest possible machine-thread screws in plastic 'box lid
With 1 & 2 done the ringgears enjoyed a much longer life, now seldom
needed replacing until they looked wornout during routine rebuild
(hence leaving me with a ton of spare, hahaha i boughtup real bad).
Interestingly balldiff gears never stripped afaik, even when 2nd balldiff up front.
ok that was the eIII... however that also explains why
1, eIV got the alloy bulkhead gearbox casing
2, and the 3pc centre shaft
3, with the bevel pinion securely clipped &
3a, sub shaft is securely located via 2 bearings, zero float
4, and why they made a metal gear
5, and metal gear only for oneway not balldiff
Ironically the beancounters also wokeup so eIV kit got a lot less
CF & alloy goodies than the eIII inside their pizzabox... now all on option list
Common/typical failures on eIV afaik are:-
a, shaft cups... PLASTIC?!
clear plastics could be more brittle than black too btw,
not that the blacks survive very long anyway.
Alloy highly recommended.
b, rear knuckles are flimsy & flexy.. go alloy or TB03 items
c, 950 knuckle bearings are too dainty for axle duty = don't live long
Keep heaps of spares or go TB03 knuckles with 1050 bearings
but you'll also have to change the stubaxles to longer versions.
d, servo turnbuckle can cut centre shaft in half... don't ask,
no idea how it happens but have seen a few broken centre shafts!!!
They soldout very early when EvoIV was new and i couldn't find any more
but recently i suspect somebody's found a stash of NOS unsold in japan,
there's a couple appearing for sale this yr.
(haven't bought 1 as my only geenuine EvoIV spool is in the evo5.)
yeah its very harsh on the other little bevel gear
... and you can't buy that little bevel gear except in a pack with the big gear
All shafters need a lot of effort shimming the gearboxes.
the EvoIII used to chewup oneway bevel ringgears... up to 1 every run,
you'd open up the gearbox and find 3-5 teeth missing or squashed.
Practised so much we could get gearbox lid open in under 10s...
eIII had a solid shaft, the bevel pinion sat on the shaft floating.
If you floored the throttle hard with a hot motor or hit something fronton,
the ringgear could bend away and skip a few teeth.
It was solved partially by....
1, 3pc shaft made by Square, stopped the 'javelin' poking in on a smash.
2, Tech racing made a CF backing plate for the ring gear, Tamiya followed.
3, Tamiya beefed up the plastic on the ring gear on the outside edge
4, some tried alloy gearbox casings... very expensive, doubtful if it worked
any better than using the longest possible machine-thread screws in plastic 'box lid
With 1 & 2 done the ringgears enjoyed a much longer life, now seldom
needed replacing until they looked wornout during routine rebuild
(hence leaving me with a ton of spare, hahaha i boughtup real bad).
Interestingly balldiff gears never stripped afaik, even when 2nd balldiff up front.
ok that was the eIII... however that also explains why
1, eIV got the alloy bulkhead gearbox casing
2, and the 3pc centre shaft
3, with the bevel pinion securely clipped &
3a, sub shaft is securely located via 2 bearings, zero float
4, and why they made a metal gear
5, and metal gear only for oneway not balldiff
Ironically the beancounters also wokeup so eIV kit got a lot less
CF & alloy goodies than the eIII inside their pizzabox... now all on option list
Common/typical failures on eIV afaik are:-
a, shaft cups... PLASTIC?!
clear plastics could be more brittle than black too btw,
not that the blacks survive very long anyway.
Alloy highly recommended.
b, rear knuckles are flimsy & flexy.. go alloy or TB03 items
c, 950 knuckle bearings are too dainty for axle duty = don't live long
Keep heaps of spares or go TB03 knuckles with 1050 bearings
but you'll also have to change the stubaxles to longer versions.
d, servo turnbuckle can cut centre shaft in half... don't ask,
no idea how it happens but have seen a few broken centre shafts!!!
10-26-2011, 03:00 PM
#3531
got my front spool on.. so much easier to drive than one way.. but i am fishtailing alot.. i couldn't find any setup sheets on this thread.. anyone got decent setup for Tamiya USA or Westcoast RC?
10-27-2011, 08:11 PM
#3532
Make sure rear diff is set loose but not slipping under torque.
Soften your rear shock with lighter oil & spring.
What have u got supporting top deck in middle? Try running without.
Bear in mind these cars were designed before crazy BL & lipo horsepower.
Shafters are lot less forgiving than belts if you have uncontrolled leadfootedness.
Soften your rear shock with lighter oil & spring.
What have u got supporting top deck in middle? Try running without.
Bear in mind these cars were designed before crazy BL & lipo horsepower.
Shafters are lot less forgiving than belts if you have uncontrolled leadfootedness.
10-31-2011, 02:38 PM
#3533
Make sure rear diff is set loose but not slipping under torque.
Soften your rear shock with lighter oil & spring.
What have u got supporting top deck in middle? Try running without.
Bear in mind these cars were designed before crazy BL & lipo horsepower.
Shafters are lot less forgiving than belts if you have uncontrolled leadfootedness.
Soften your rear shock with lighter oil & spring.
What have u got supporting top deck in middle? Try running without.
Bear in mind these cars were designed before crazy BL & lipo horsepower.
Shafters are lot less forgiving than belts if you have uncontrolled leadfootedness.
David Setup Sheet:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln...dule_EvoIV.pdf
11-04-2011, 08:20 AM
#3534
i wouldn't waste too much time with setup sheets from yesteryear,
motors were not as powerful as today and the batteries were heavier!
you have the "plastic wall" (evoIII part) supporting your top deck = stiff
evoIV has some little poles supplied on the diff covers sprue
with notch to clear the shaft, shown as not-used in manual
but they are alternative top deck supports.
These pillars allow more flex.
There is an optionpart single Y-shaped alloy pillar too.
Or don't use any support for max flex.
I'm talking twisting/tortional flex... this is good for grip.
Not bending banana flex like if you removed your top deck entirely,
that won't help your suspension do its work well at all.
haha here's the 2 plastic pillars AND the alloy thingy all together:-
evoIV that i've just finished restoring + updated with OTA-R31 suspension
motors were not as powerful as today and the batteries were heavier!
you have the "plastic wall" (evoIII part) supporting your top deck = stiff
evoIV has some little poles supplied on the diff covers sprue
with notch to clear the shaft, shown as not-used in manual
but they are alternative top deck supports.
These pillars allow more flex.
There is an optionpart single Y-shaped alloy pillar too.
Or don't use any support for max flex.
I'm talking twisting/tortional flex... this is good for grip.
Not bending banana flex like if you removed your top deck entirely,
that won't help your suspension do its work well at all.
haha here's the 2 plastic pillars AND the alloy thingy all together:-
evoIV that i've just finished restoring + updated with OTA-R31 suspension
11-04-2011, 08:40 AM
#3535
i am running AE 40wt in the front and AE 30wt in the rear with yellow springs all around. i have not even opened up the rear diff yet. I just found a David Jun setup sheet for the evo IV for the tamiya track and will try that first. Only thing is the setup sheet is not complete..
David Setup Sheet:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln...dule_EvoIV.pdf
David Setup Sheet:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln...dule_EvoIV.pdf
#1 he's using "PRO MODULE" rear suspension, its some fancy hopup from
TRF415 era that has alloy rear arms & shocks that act direct on rear uprights
here's mine...
there is much more leverage on the shock vs plastic arms
so you can't just blindly follow same setup
#2 you're not using the "TRF Dampers" on your car all-round are you?
Recommend that you do get a full set... TRFs are best shocks around,
all Tamiya setups would assume them as std fitment.
Use the teflon 2-hole pistons in the TRF set (different again to other piston)
as the starting point and you can't go too far wrong.
#3 depends where you run, if there's good chance of hitting hard objects
avoid using the blue lightweight alloy dogbone up the front - they will bend.
Stick with the black steel bone for front.
11-04-2011, 12:41 PM
#3536
ok there's a coupla issues with that sheet
#1 he's using "PRO MODULE" rear suspension, its some fancy hopup from
TRF415 era that has alloy rear arms & shocks that act direct on rear uprights
here's mine...
there is much more leverage on the shock vs plastic arms
so you can't just blindly follow same setup
#2 you're not using the "TRF Dampers" on your car all-round are you?
Recommend that you do get a full set... TRFs are best shocks around,
all Tamiya setups would assume them as std fitment.
Use the teflon 2-hole pistons in the TRF set (different again to other piston)
as the starting point and you can't go too far wrong.
#3 depends where you run, if there's good chance of hitting hard objects
avoid using the blue lightweight alloy dogbone up the front - they will bend.
Stick with the black steel bone for front.
#1 he's using "PRO MODULE" rear suspension, its some fancy hopup from
TRF415 era that has alloy rear arms & shocks that act direct on rear uprights
here's mine...
there is much more leverage on the shock vs plastic arms
so you can't just blindly follow same setup
#2 you're not using the "TRF Dampers" on your car all-round are you?
Recommend that you do get a full set... TRFs are best shocks around,
all Tamiya setups would assume them as std fitment.
Use the teflon 2-hole pistons in the TRF set (different again to other piston)
as the starting point and you can't go too far wrong.
#3 depends where you run, if there's good chance of hitting hard objects
avoid using the blue lightweight alloy dogbone up the front - they will bend.
Stick with the black steel bone for front.
11-04-2011, 02:30 PM
#3537
Download the evoiv ms manual and build it to spec. It worked well for me. Definitely keep checking the car for tweak. Running front spool may eat up those light weight front dong bones pretty quickly. Looking at your car brings back memories
11-04-2011, 05:00 PM
#3538
I wonder if Tamiya will ever come out with a new shaft drive, EVO VI or maybe a TB04.
11-04-2011, 05:43 PM
#3539
What do u guys mean by tweak? Everyone talks about it but I can't find meaning. Is that like flex.
11-04-2011, 06:00 PM
#3540
It's when yor chassis gets twisted. It can happen from impacts. To check it, take the wheels off and make sure you have a flat surface to set the car on. If the chassis won't sit flat, just loosen the screws on the top deck. It should sit flat once you do that. Then just tighten the top deck back down.
It's kind of a crappy explanation, but that was alot to type on my phone!
It's kind of a crappy explanation, but that was alot to type on my phone!
