Tamiya TB-Evolution IV
#2327
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Originally posted by PIIHB!
It's really so them old guys *cough* WYD *cough* can see me and not punt me
It's really so them old guys *cough* WYD *cough* can see me and not punt me
#2329
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Thanks Everyone for your praise of my car.
I gotta say WYD, your car looks VERY nice too. I think I want those aluminium body posts up front!
Thanks Everyone for your praise of my car.
I gotta say WYD, your car looks VERY nice too. I think I want those aluminium body posts up front!
#2331
Alonso, concerning the Square Transponder mount, the 415 servo mounts on the opposite side of the chassis than the EvoIV. Also the 415 servo mounts are uh.. how to say this.. skinny. Where as the Evo III/IV servo mounts are fat (meaning it places the servo much farther forward than if using 415 mounts). So I doubt they are the same. Just look at some pics of a 415 and you'll see what I mean.
Nice pics of the cars guys. I'd take some pics of mine now, but it's in pieces right now hehe.
Nice pics of the cars guys. I'd take some pics of mine now, but it's in pieces right now hehe.
#2332
Originally posted by PIIHB!
Does anybody have the part # for those blue tie-rods?
Does anybody have the part # for those blue tie-rods?
#2333
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Originally posted by KilRuf
Alonso, concerning the Square Transponder mount, the 415 servo mounts on the opposite side of the chassis than the EvoIV. Also the 415 servo mounts are uh.. how to say this.. skinny. Where as the Evo III/IV servo mounts are fat (meaning it places the servo much farther forward than if using 415 mounts). So I doubt they are the same. Just look at some pics of a 415 and you'll see what I mean.
Nice pics of the cars guys. I'd take some pics of mine now, but it's in pieces right now hehe.
Alonso, concerning the Square Transponder mount, the 415 servo mounts on the opposite side of the chassis than the EvoIV. Also the 415 servo mounts are uh.. how to say this.. skinny. Where as the Evo III/IV servo mounts are fat (meaning it places the servo much farther forward than if using 415 mounts). So I doubt they are the same. Just look at some pics of a 415 and you'll see what I mean.
Nice pics of the cars guys. I'd take some pics of mine now, but it's in pieces right now hehe.
#2334
#2335
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
WYD - Sydney is a pretty nice place with a lot of competitive racing. I am actually in Melbourne and we have quite a lot of good quality racers also, and we are also a RUBBER ONLY state pretty much, unless there is a National Event, whereas Sydney + others are Foamies pretty much. You should come over some time, would be great fun.
Kilruf - Yeh, I wasn't too sure exactly. I thought that was the case from memory but I thought that JDM had said that. He could've said the Evo III ones, but I don't know. I'd like to get the Square Servo Post as I did a dumb thing and cut the ear off the wrong side of the servo. Needless to say, my servo case has seen better days and I am using a large tapping screw in the right side of my servo, connected to the upper ear. Looks awful but with all my running with the car, there has never been an issue. I actually thought I ordered a new 9550 servo case but R10 must've missed it from the order. Ahh well. P.S. Also looking forward to seeing your car Kilruf!!
Regarding Turnbuckles - I decided to stay away from the aluminium turnbuckles as they bend far too easily and the Ti ones from Tamiya work great. You'll need to use the 3x32mm Ti turnbuckles for the camber links as they don't make Ti turnbuckles in 3x28mm size. Using 32s makes the joints stronger anyway.
Kilruf - Yeh, I wasn't too sure exactly. I thought that was the case from memory but I thought that JDM had said that. He could've said the Evo III ones, but I don't know. I'd like to get the Square Servo Post as I did a dumb thing and cut the ear off the wrong side of the servo. Needless to say, my servo case has seen better days and I am using a large tapping screw in the right side of my servo, connected to the upper ear. Looks awful but with all my running with the car, there has never been an issue. I actually thought I ordered a new 9550 servo case but R10 must've missed it from the order. Ahh well. P.S. Also looking forward to seeing your car Kilruf!!
Regarding Turnbuckles - I decided to stay away from the aluminium turnbuckles as they bend far too easily and the Ti ones from Tamiya work great. You'll need to use the 3x32mm Ti turnbuckles for the camber links as they don't make Ti turnbuckles in 3x28mm size. Using 32s makes the joints stronger anyway.
#2336
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Thanks Everyone for your praise of my car.
I gotta say WYD, your car looks VERY nice too. I think I want those aluminium body posts up front!
Thanks Everyone for your praise of my car.
I gotta say WYD, your car looks VERY nice too. I think I want those aluminium body posts up front!
those alumn C hub + uprights , are they from tamiya?
Can it be use with the old 04 arms?
Thanks
by the way, its a damn cool blue car u got there.
#2337
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
A few experiances w/ the first night of racing me evo4 in the 540 silver can class (GT3):
The black ball ends for the rear up-rights break if you look at them funny. (thanks for the spare parts WYD ) I had to use the old brass ball ends I had lying around.
My one-way front diff is garbage. It doesn't work correctly. the left front wheel will move back and forth and the bearing won't 'lock'
Other then that it seems like a nice car
The black ball ends for the rear up-rights break if you look at them funny. (thanks for the spare parts WYD ) I had to use the old brass ball ends I had lying around.
My one-way front diff is garbage. It doesn't work correctly. the left front wheel will move back and forth and the bearing won't 'lock'
Other then that it seems like a nice car
#2338
Tech Adept
PIIHB
I had the same problem with my front diff...
Lube it up with triflow, run it a heat and it will work properly then...
I had the same problem with my front diff...
Lube it up with triflow, run it a heat and it will work properly then...
#2339
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
hi guys after reading a few pages my eyes are sore so far i've gathered a list of flaws with the evo 4 may i get you guys to add to the list so i can decide which tamiya chassis to get. evo 4 or 415
front one way ... fixed with one way lube.
rear hub bearings cease very often
comes with alloy turnbuckles from factory
front one way alloy ring gears needed
thanks in advance guys
front one way ... fixed with one way lube.
rear hub bearings cease very often
comes with alloy turnbuckles from factory
front one way alloy ring gears needed
thanks in advance guys
#2340
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally posted by BrainTeased
hi guys after reading a few pages my eyes are sore so far i've gathered a list of flaws with the evo 4 may i get you guys to add to the list so i can decide which tamiya chassis to get. evo 4 or 415
front one way ... fixed with one way lube.
rear hub bearings cease very often
comes with alloy turnbuckles from factory
front one way alloy ring gears needed
thanks in advance guys
hi guys after reading a few pages my eyes are sore so far i've gathered a list of flaws with the evo 4 may i get you guys to add to the list so i can decide which tamiya chassis to get. evo 4 or 415
front one way ... fixed with one way lube.
rear hub bearings cease very often
comes with alloy turnbuckles from factory
front one way alloy ring gears needed
thanks in advance guys
I think that the key things you've missed is that you:
NEED alloy drive cups front + rear
Carbon Steering Plate Breaks fairly easily (which is why I use a turnbuckle, as well as having adjustable ackerman too
Annoying Flange Tubes for the bottom of front uprights
Rear Uprights seem fairly weak
Spur Gear changes a a bit of a bitch I still think, at least compared to some other belt driven cars
Now, you can fix these issues:
MUST get alloy drive cups
I think the turnbuckle for the steering arm link is a good addition
Get plenty of spare flange tubes
Get Alloy Rear + Front Uprights
Get Square Evo IV Motor mount
From there, everything should be pretty reliable and safe. I didn't put the C Hubs on there as I'm not exactly sure where the damage will take place in an accident but I am only expecting to bend the suspension pins, which is all that's happened on other cars I've owned.
KREATOR1 - The Alloy front uprights and C Hubs are made by Square and are only for the LW Reversible Suspension on Evo IV and 415MS, as well as other cars equipped with the conversion kit. Thanks for the BLUE compliment.