BMI Racing "Copperhead 10" Support and Discussion
03-16-2011, 02:54 PM
#241
The Corally from what i understand is 235mm isnt it?(or can be widened to 235) That in itself will play a huge role in the stability at such high speeds. Although, a one car does all(200 and 235mm) is not ideal for either class, a 200mm car converted to 235mm or close to will handle the blistering speeds of 2S racing better than a 200mm car. We are looking into making a 235mm car if the demand is big enough. It will be a dedicated 235mm car as i dont like to have half breed cars as they can do both but they dont really do either very well.
have you heard if the WGT rules are re writen for the new fr end i may need to take it out so there are no complainers at the region race
03-16-2011, 03:01 PM
#242
The Corally from what i understand is 235mm isnt it?(or can be widened to 235) That in itself will play a huge role in the stability at such high speeds. Although, a one car does all(200 and 235mm) is not ideal for either class, a 200mm car converted to 235mm or close to will handle the blistering speeds of 2S racing better than a 200mm car. We are looking into making a 235mm car if the demand is big enough. It will be a dedicated 235mm car as i dont like to have half breed cars as they can do both but they dont really do either very well.
The Corally car could be run for both classes. For the front end there are two different fixed positions for the front end. Both are very wide. For the narrow class this means about 7mm wider front track without shims than the DB10RR. In inch this is a little more than 1/4".
For the rear Iīm not sure what you need exactly, but itīs just some parts from changing narrow to 235mm car.
I donīt like the Corally but I have to admit both versions are very very fast.
03-16-2011, 04:20 PM
#243
you need a longer axle and wider hubs to transform the 10sl from 200mm to 235mm. These are hubs so no add ons like the crc. I know that there is an aftermarket front plate for the 235mm version to make the front even wider then it already is. It would drive better that way. I do not know if a normal pro10 body will fit though if you would use that front plate but a lola is no problem.
03-16-2011, 06:37 PM
#244
I know the Copperhead has adjustable front trackwide. Thatīs why I want knowing what is the maximum wide possible.
If possible please could someone measure the distance of the left and right side front end screws at the bottom of the chassis. This is easier to compare as no shims or different wheel dimensions will make a difference.
My current front track wide is about 192mm with Jaco wheels. I use shims sometimes for widening to 193-194mm but actually thatīs not the way you want widening a front end.
Iīm using the original AE strut frontend currently. From my knowledge the new style frontend isnīt available as 1/10 version to the public until now.
If possible please could someone measure the distance of the left and right side front end screws at the bottom of the chassis. This is easier to compare as no shims or different wheel dimensions will make a difference.
My current front track wide is about 192mm with Jaco wheels. I use shims sometimes for widening to 193-194mm but actually thatīs not the way you want widening a front end.
Iīm using the original AE strut frontend currently. From my knowledge the new style frontend isnīt available as 1/10 version to the public until now.
03-16-2011, 06:52 PM
#245
hmm, I havent really seen a corally work well in 1S 13.5 boosted but maybe with 2S 17.5 it works. Even in high bite the CH 10 works extremely well. I dont believe Corally got a car in the A main at Snowbirds which was very high bite. The only 2 CH10's i sent were in the A main. It looks like, from what you guys are seeing is that they work good in 2S.
I would like to say that that it sounds like you are just experiencing too much chassis flex. The CH10 is much more rigid than the DB10RR. That will help you allot. Also, the new flex plate design really increases rotation and reduces rear steer. The width of the CH10 is the same as the DB10RR when the CH10 is set to the widest position. I have 2mm spacers that go behind the front axles where they butt the steering spindles that fit both the DB10RR and the CH10. This will increase front track width by 4mm.
I would like to say that that it sounds like you are just experiencing too much chassis flex. The CH10 is much more rigid than the DB10RR. That will help you allot. Also, the new flex plate design really increases rotation and reduces rear steer. The width of the CH10 is the same as the DB10RR when the CH10 is set to the widest position. I have 2mm spacers that go behind the front axles where they butt the steering spindles that fit both the DB10RR and the CH10. This will increase front track width by 4mm.
03-17-2011, 03:41 AM
#246
I still run my rc10l2 for comming outdoor season but would be interested in a 235mm copperhead. When you do plan on designing one I hope you can leave some more material on the bottom podplate. The db10rr one is quite thin imo. Weight is not an issue with a pro10 as the rules are still minimum 1200 grams overe here and probably won't ever change. That extra material doesn't do that much in weight but it makes the pod much more durable. I would prefer function/durability over a beautiful design. 
03-17-2011, 12:03 PM
#248
last summer there was interest in my area to run modified 235mm . looked like alot of fun. a 2s 235mm car with a 6.5t is ballistic .
but like Jason said if people want to see a 235mm kit ,there has to be a demand. So I guess its up to all of you to show there is a demand.
but like Jason said if people want to see a 235mm kit ,there has to be a demand. So I guess its up to all of you to show there is a demand.
03-17-2011, 12:06 PM
#249
*raises hand*
To make it easier, just ship it in the 200mm copperhead carboard box and just slap a sticker on it "235mm version" or something. Cuts the development for a new box.
To make it easier, just ship it in the 200mm copperhead carboard box and just slap a sticker on it "235mm version" or something. Cuts the development for a new box.
03-20-2011, 12:20 PM
#250
hmm, I havent really seen a corally work well in 1S 13.5 boosted but maybe with 2S 17.5 it works. Even in high bite the CH 10 works extremely well. I dont believe Corally got a car in the A main at Snowbirds which was very high bite. The only 2 CH10's i sent were in the A main. It looks like, from what you guys are seeing is that they work good in 2S.
I would like to say that that it sounds like you are just experiencing too much chassis flex. The CH10 is much more rigid than the DB10RR. That will help you allot. Also, the new flex plate design really increases rotation and reduces rear steer. The width of the CH10 is the same as the DB10RR when the CH10 is set to the widest position. I have 2mm spacers that go behind the front axles where they butt the steering spindles that fit both the DB10RR and the CH10. This will increase front track width by 4mm.
I would like to say that that it sounds like you are just experiencing too much chassis flex. The CH10 is much more rigid than the DB10RR. That will help you allot. Also, the new flex plate design really increases rotation and reduces rear steer. The width of the CH10 is the same as the DB10RR when the CH10 is set to the widest position. I have 2mm spacers that go behind the front axles where they butt the steering spindles that fit both the DB10RR and the CH10. This will increase front track width by 4mm.
Donīt know if anyone did run a Corally 1/10th at the Snowbirds.
Of course the improvements on the Copperhead 10 over the DB10RR will help here also.
But from what I read from your posting you canīt widening the front end on the Copperhead more than with the DB10RR. Right? Please donīt take me wrong but I have no clue why the wide is adjustable just for a narrower track with the Copperhead. Talking with other drivers here all of them went with wider trackwide for front meanwhile and went faster.
Using shims at the front axle may be an easy way but thatīs not the same.
03-21-2011, 02:55 AM
#251
For WGT, the super wide front doesnt help out at all.Our maximum width worked just right for high bite carpet. The narrow option was for asphalt. For very high traction we used the spacers behind the axle as it worked better than widening at the arm mount. 1S and 2S are 2 different animals and 2S just hasnt been in high demand. If i remember correctly, even CRC eliminated the 235 option from his latest WGT cars. Its not that i am against running 2S, i just havent had many people ask about the 235mm cars as the 200mm WGT cars have been ruling the market for 1/10th pan cars. I understand that Corally has been doing well in 2S 235mm racing for now. If the demand for 235mm grows, then you will see the change in which cars are on the podium.
03-21-2011, 05:43 AM
#253
Just to clarify, 2s lipo is also being driven in the 200mm cars overhere. Not only in the 235mm cars. But yeah it is understandable.... if there isn't a real demand in an area then it isn't worthwhile.
@V12
As the CH front suspension sits on top of a plate i think it would be possible to widen the front of the CH by making wider carbon bottomplates. In your / our case the question is if it is really worthwhile the investment of the CH or just go for the easier option (10sl).
For indoorseason 2011-2012 i might try the inline axles to get some better steering response, haven't tried that. (for the DB10RR)
@V12
As the CH front suspension sits on top of a plate i think it would be possible to widen the front of the CH by making wider carbon bottomplates. In your / our case the question is if it is really worthwhile the investment of the CH or just go for the easier option (10sl).
For indoorseason 2011-2012 i might try the inline axles to get some better steering response, haven't tried that. (for the DB10RR)
03-21-2011, 05:55 AM
#254
03-21-2011, 05:58 AM
#255
Just to clarify, 2s lipo is also being driven in the 200mm cars overhere. Not only in the 235mm cars. But yeah it is understandable.... if there isn't a real demand in an area then it isn't worthwhile.
@V12
As the CH front suspension sits on top of a plate i think it would be possible to widen the front of the CH by making wider carbon bottomplates. In your / our case the question is if it is really worthwhile the investment of the CH or just go for the easier option (10sl).
For indoorseason 2011-2012 i might try the inline axles to get some better steering response, haven't tried that. (for the DB10RR)
@V12
As the CH front suspension sits on top of a plate i think it would be possible to widen the front of the CH by making wider carbon bottomplates. In your / our case the question is if it is really worthwhile the investment of the CH or just go for the easier option (10sl).
For indoorseason 2011-2012 i might try the inline axles to get some better steering response, haven't tried that. (for the DB10RR)
