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Old 10-24-2010, 07:36 PM   #1126
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thousand dollar car with a two dollar wiring job, sad. he needs to send that to you for a redo.
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Old 10-24-2010, 09:31 PM   #1127
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Jason

After you get a chance to go through a page or two of jibber jabber when you get in on Monday, your input regarding my question on page 75 would be great.

Thanks

Not that I'm opposed to the jibber jabber guys, carry on.
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:05 AM   #1128
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Originally Posted by VRacing View Post
Guys - Anyone messing around with the side-link "spring rates"? Just wanted to check the correct sequence of adjustments. From Low - High do we use 1.2mm Long; 1.2mm Short; 1.5mm Long; 1.5mm Short ??

I haven't had need to change the setting yet, just wanted to double check on the correct range in case it comes up.

Thanks
For the most part, lighter spring rate for higher traction and higher spring rate for less traction. I go with a real high spring rate for very tight tracks. The higher the spring rate, the more weight that is loaded to the front tires during cornering. The lighter spring rate, the more weight will be absorbed by the spring and less weight will be transferred to the tires. Going to the shorter mount will increase spring rate of that particular flex plate and also increase how pregressive the spring rate is.
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:53 AM   #1129
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Thanks Jason! Appreciate the Tech Help!

Really enjoying your new car. It's been very user-friendly both in setup and driving. Gets around the track pretty quick too!

Aaron
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:03 AM   #1130
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No problem buddy. Im glad you are enjoying the car
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:10 AM   #1131
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How can I get more high speed steering and less low speed steering? I'm running the CH12FE kit setup on a very tight track with decent traction.

BTW, folks at the track couldn't believe how well this car did after simply building and throwing it on the track. Apparently they had to spend a lot more time dialing theirs in.
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:30 AM   #1132
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How much do you have the hinge pin block shimmed up? Also need to know tire compound and size. If you are running the stock front flex plates, try going to the 1.8mm plates. You can also widen the front end by shimming behind the axles. If you can post your exact setup w/ damper tube lube and everything, i can make more suggestions for you. I know you say you have the kit setup but sometimes people change a little of the setup if they dont have one of the parts or lubes and that can drastically change performance
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:15 AM   #1133
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Grip Roll & the New BMI Front End

anyone found/finding grip roll has reduced when using the NFE or is it still there?
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:16 AM   #1134
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Is motor spray OK to clean the damper tubes, or is it better to just wipe them off? I received my shur lube post-build so I'm off spec there right now. I used losi 15,000 in front and durango 10,000 in the rear. I've got hinge pin block and front wheel spacers on order. I think I'm a bit narrow in the rear right now because I've got Jacos on with the stock shims on the axle. I don't know the diameter of the wheels ( yellow rear/purple front), but there's probably about 2mm in thickness of foam so they're very small. I tried to match your suggested ride height and sag with 45wt associated shock oil.

Thanks!
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:45 AM   #1135
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Grip Roll & the New BMI Front End

anyone found/finding grip roll has reduced when using the NFE or is it still there?
When i was testing the front end, i tested many different roll centers and camber curves and settled on what we have. With the hinge pin block lower than the stock supplied hardware, we had allot of traction roll issues. Once we raised the hingepin block to where it is now, the car never even came close to traction rolling. So i really dont think you will run into any problems. Im sure that if the setup is way off you can get it to roll over but it is very easy to tune it out.
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:52 AM   #1136
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Is motor spray OK to clean the damper tubes, or is it better to just wipe them off? I received my shur lube post-build so I'm off spec there right now. I used losi 15,000 in front and durango 10,000 in the rear. I've got hinge pin block and front wheel spacers on order. I think I'm a bit narrow in the rear right now because I've got Jacos on with the stock shims on the axle. I don't know the diameter of the wheels ( yellow rear/purple front), but there's probably about 2mm in thickness of foam so they're very small. I tried to match your suggested ride height and sag with 45wt associated shock oil.

Thanks!
Motor spray will work fine for cleaning the damper tubes. Dont use motor spray on the front damper piston w/ the O ring. Just wipe that one off. You can spray the tube out though. With Jaco tires you will need to space the rear axle 3mm per side. I suggest running the rear that way. It should come out to 172mm and centered perfectly with that shimming. Shimming the front is also going to help. It looks like you are getting very close to my setup so you should be good. #4 shurlube in the side tubes and #6 in the front tube feels real good. Make sure that you set your left and right hand circles even and that the car turns a 3-4 ft circle left and right. Hope that helps.
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:03 PM   #1137
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Hey guys,

Just wanted to share my success with my CH12! Ran again last night with the car setup similarly to Jason's latest setup and the car was FANTASTIC...super smooth with really good corner speed. I TQ'd and won the main (although some of the really fast local guys weren't there).

I started the night on CRC Purple fronts and Pink rears with 2mm of shims under the upper pivot block and it was good but too "pushy". I then went down to 1mm of shims under the pivot block and it was much better. For the Main I changed to Yellow rears and the car was great. Here is where I ended up for setup:

FRONT
CRC Purple fronts 42mm 1/3 sauced
-1.5 Camber
6 Castor
Stock flex plates set "stiff"
#6 Surlube
1mm shim under pivot block
2mm shims behind the front axles
4mm ride height
~0.5mm droop

REAR
CRC Yellow rears 44mm full sauce
1.2mm flex plates set "soft"
Gold center spring w/ 45wt Losi oil
#4 Surlube in tubes
4mm ride height
1mm pod droop

I think I'd still like to get it a little more aggressive on turn-in so I may go to Jaco Lilacs on the front and/or remove the 1mm of shims on the front pivot block.

All in all I'm really pleased with the performance and I think there is probably a bit more to be found. Thanks for a great product Jason!

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:23 PM   #1138
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Purple is a bit too hard for me personally. I like to go to Lilac for 17.5 and magenta or 2x pink front for 13.5. For the rear, yellow or the orange will be perfect for you buddy.

Glad to see you got it working good for you. You made the right change for the upper hinge pin block to bring back your steering. Isnt it nice to have all of this adjustment? Congrats on your TQ and win.
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:43 PM   #1139
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Quote:
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Once we raised the hingepin block to where it is now, the car never even came close to traction rolling.
Jason

is the hinge pin higher or lower in relation to the AE/CRC front ends or are you going to keep it under wraps?
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Old 10-25-2010, 02:51 PM   #1140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Mike View Post
FRONT
CRC Purple fronts 42mm 1/3 sauced
-1.5 Camber
6 Castor
Stock flex plates set "stiff"
#6 Surlube
1mm shim under pivot block
2mm shims behind the front axles
4mm ride height
~0.5mm droop

REAR
CRC Yellow rears 44mm full sauce
1.2mm flex plates set "soft"
Gold center spring w/ 45wt Losi oil
#4 Surlube in tubes
4mm ride height
1mm pod droop

I think I'd still like to get it a little more aggressive on turn-in so I may go to Jaco Lilacs on the front and/or remove the 1mm of shims on the front pivot block.
On CRC tires all you will ever need for 17.5 or 13.5 is yellow or graylo rears and double pink fronts, run blacks if traction is REAL high. Give it a try, you will like it much much better.
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