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Old 09-29-2010, 08:10 PM   #946
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That is a good explination. My biggest gripe with a shock is the weight and the fact that it is a pain to change. Tubes are very simple and they last a while. They are very consistant and clean. I have heard alot of horror stories about them leaking. I have had nothing but success with the tubes and they are much lighter.
Another consideration is the pack factor; I would expect a closed system like a chock to pack differently under instant loads than an open tube. I could be be wrong though.


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Ahh, I see. I run my servo flush with the top of the servo mounts. I do this to match the lower arm angle with the turnbuckle angle..
Just for my own knowledge and sanity, do you really mean the lower arm? I have always worked to match the upper arm angle so as not to induce bump steer. I'm not trying to nitpick, just learn!
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:44 PM   #947
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before i make a donkey out of myself.... is the phone number on the website the number i would phone to make an order??

thanks,
anthony
yes the 352-544-0463
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Old 09-30-2010, 03:21 AM   #948
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Another consideration is the pack factor; I would expect a closed system like a chock to pack differently under instant loads than an open tube. I could be be wrong though.




Just for my own knowledge and sanity, do you really mean the lower arm? I have always worked to match the upper arm angle so as not to induce bump steer. I'm not trying to nitpick, just learn!
You match the upper arm on a strut front end. Not on a double wishbone. 2 different animals.
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Old 09-30-2010, 05:13 AM   #949
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Ahh. I wasn't paying attention. Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 09-30-2010, 05:35 AM   #950
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No problem buddy. You are right though for the strut front end. A strut front end is a McPherson Strut turned upside down. Being that the upper arm on the strut front end is the only moving part, you need to match that upper arm angle to eliminate bumpsteer.
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Old 09-30-2010, 11:21 AM   #951
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so Jason, now that you have had some quality time with the new front end...what do you think...is it a major performance advantage over the "old" front end?
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Old 09-30-2010, 12:08 PM   #952
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I do find it to be a big advantage over the strut. You have much more adjustment and all the changes you make really are noticable on the track. Tire wear is much better, i am faster with it(most important ) and it is extremely durable. I was happy with the strut front end for a long time. It has alot of issues that i was able to overlook because that was the best thing available. Now that has changed. We went after the true race car performance. Out with the old and in with the new.
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Old 09-30-2010, 01:00 PM   #953
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I do find it to be a big advantage over the strut. You have much more adjustment and all the changes you make really are noticable on the track. Tire wear is much better, i am faster with it(most important ) and it is extremely durable. I was happy with the strut front end for a long time. It has alot of issues that i was able to overlook because that was the best thing available. Now that has changed. We went after the true race car performance. Out with the old and in with the new.
mahalo Jason, looks like a CH12 w/new front end for me in the near future
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Old 09-30-2010, 05:03 PM   #954
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Where can i get one of those quick release units?
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:59 AM   #955
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It's by Sullivan Products (sullivanproducts.com) part #562 4-40 Size Locking Ball Connector. The local store here has it in the aircraft section. There is at least one other size.
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:25 AM   #956
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The one that I'm using is Sullivan No. 905. I'm not sure what the difference is, someone on RCTech suggested the 905 specifically, so I ordered that one.

Edit: Just found a site that shows the 905 as having 4-40 threads on the ball compared to 2-56 threads on the 562.

http://www.sullivanproducts.com/ContSysAccMainFrame.htm

That is the site for reference and maybe some other ideas .
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:42 AM   #957
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Strange. I couldn't find 905 or 562 on the site. but both of mine are 562 4-40, and they are (very dark) blue, completely unlike the blue on the site. Old stock perhaps. But they work like a dream, which I guess is what counts.
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Old 10-01-2010, 02:41 PM   #958
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Jason can you email me the instruction sheet for the new front end? Got my order yesterday. pwomble@gmail.com Thanks

Nevermind just got it from Karen. Thanks!!!
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:59 PM   #959
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Originally Posted by protc3 View Post
No problem buddy. You are right though for the strut front end. A strut front end is a McPherson Strut turned upside down. Being that the upper arm on the strut front end is the only moving part, you need to match that upper arm angle to eliminate bumpsteer.

I am always ready to learn. I am always looking for a mountain guru to sit at their feet and learn Jedi ways.

For example...

When it comes to rear traction for 1/12th in general, what 6 geometry, set up changes do you feel improve traction the most. I always seem to be looking for more rear traction at my local track and another set of eyes/opinion on the situation would be awesome. I am trying to improve my cars' (AE, SM, no BMI yet ...) balance without removing steering, which may be drivable but slower...

I ask because I have seen two particular car brands excel on our track, and despite a couple years of solid week in and week out testing and trying ALL KINDS of changes, I can't seem to improve car A to meet the traction developed by cars B or C.


Narrower rear axle width
Softer Center Spring/Oil
Larger Rear tires
Higher ride height (rear slightly lower than front)
Softer side springs
Thicker side dampening
Softer rear tires (I'm down to whites now)
Move body back
Move weight on chassis forward
Speed8 HD body
Top rear of center shock positioned closer to center pod pivot

Maybe I'll just repost this in the 1/12th thread...
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Old 10-02-2010, 02:34 AM   #960
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i`ve read your post and it seems to me your going the wrong way.

to stable the car you need grip. When you have to much grip then you start getting the car to steer less.

So all your settings are going to make the car easy but slow.
Try to get the front suspension stiffest, with an stabi if that is possible, that will remove steering, with this stiff setting first your car will not have steering. Then get softer tires in the front untill the steering suits you. You will find that the softer tire will smooth the car, it removes the jumpingness(my englisch is rusty).

I am reading this post about the BMI because the front suspension looks like my schumacher car (wich i drove in the `80) wich had an similar front.
Does this front arm can take a hit in the boarding good or will it break easyly like the crc frontarms. Does someone have hitting experience

Greetz JW
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