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Old 09-27-2010, 11:36 PM   #916
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I am going to be making the 2mm axle spacers for you guys also. They will be a nice,cheap little tuning option.

last year i tried running more offset on the front and could not get more than 3 or 4 shims stacked between the axle and block without losing thread on the nut.

so, to add 2mm to the front axle, does this mean you drop the lock nut? or maybe you grind a relief on the inner surface of the stearing block?
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Old 09-27-2010, 11:56 PM   #917
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I ran my DB12RR with the New Front on Saturday, with no other changes from the previous week. Unfortunately it was one of those nights when almost everything seems to go wrong, but unrelated to the NF. (Except that I had to clip the corners off the servo saver for clearance. Is this normal with the NF?)
I only finished one of four quallies, and only 3 laps of the main. So why am I happy? In my first qually of 12(!) laps I equalled my best lap of the previous week. And in the main my third lap (which was also my last lap) was 3/10s better than ANY prevous lap I'd done.
I think Jason said he favours the front flex plates in the outer position towards the wheels. I can't do this with the RR due to the chassis cutouts.
What difference does this positioning make?
Would there be any problems if I made a thin brace to support the set screw? It looks like there would be sufficient room.
Thanks.
Hey buddy, I'm running the same setup (DB12RR w/new front end). So don't hesitate to contact me if you need any help with the car.
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Old 09-28-2010, 04:38 AM   #918
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last year i tried running more offset on the front and could not get more than 3 or 4 shims stacked between the axle and block without losing thread on the nut.

so, to add 2mm to the front axle, does this mean you drop the lock nut? or maybe you grind a relief on the inner surface of the stearing block?
I just dropped the nut. THreading the axle into the block holds fine
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Old 09-28-2010, 08:42 AM   #919
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Hey guys,

I am going to be working on a setup guide for the car and the new front suspension. I will be putting on the website and also on here so you guys have more of an understanding on what all the adjustments do and how to tune the cars. I want you all to get the most out of your cars and spend less time with the guesswork. I will try to get it completed shortly.
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:07 AM   #920
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Hey guys,

I am going to be working on a setup guide for the car and the new front suspension. I will be putting on the website and also on here so you guys have more of an understanding on what all the adjustments do and how to tune the cars. I want you all to get the most out of your cars and spend less time with the guesswork. I will try to get it completed shortly.
That would be awesome buddy
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:30 AM   #921
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Jason here are two pics. It works after the snip, but I'll try to find a small saver.

Thanks for the offer JayBee. I'll probably be in touch.
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BMI Racing "Copperhead 12" discussion and support-001.jpg   BMI Racing "Copperhead 12" discussion and support-002.jpg  
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:39 AM   #922
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Ahh, I see. I run my servo flush with the top of the servo mounts. I do this to match the lower arm angle with the turnbuckle angle..
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:10 AM   #923
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oops
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Old 09-28-2010, 10:55 AM   #924
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Jason here are two pics. It works after the snip, but I'll try to find a small saver.

Thanks for the offer JayBee. I'll probably be in touch.
It looks like you cut the ballcup on the piston a little short or it isnt threaded on all the way. Make sure you have the ballcup threaded all the way until it butts the piston on the damper tube
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Old 09-28-2010, 11:57 AM   #925
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Odd...I ran mine in the down position like that and it cleared the arms...but just barely.
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:40 PM   #926
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Thanks Jason. Both items attended to.
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:15 PM   #927
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Let us know how it goes next time out buddy.
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Old 09-28-2010, 02:51 PM   #928
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Will do. It's certainly more aesthetically pleasing this way.
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Old 09-28-2010, 03:18 PM   #929
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Old 09-28-2010, 03:43 PM   #930
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How do you make sure you are getting the damper tubes the same on every run, or for that matter from side to side? I always try to use the same amount of spooge and have even used a fiddle stick to try and measure the drag, but it seems very imprecise. Associated and Serpent use oil filled shocks, but now Serpent appears to be revamping their car to use tubes. Thoughts?
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